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17th October 2017, 01:52 AM #31
In Sydney there's a cabal of transport and landuse planners who live in Sydney's Eastern and Inner suburbs -- typically within 8 km of the CBD.
These suburbs are extremely well serviced by public transport and being close to the coast get the north-east sea breeze almost every day. (If you know Sydney you will know where places like Rozelle, Leichhardt, Newtown and Bondi Junction are.)
This cabal thinks that the level of public transport service and access to the sea breeze they experience is "normal" and applies across all of Sydney -- accordingly they promote policies that work in their area, ignoring the heat island effects in Sydney's middle and Western Suburbs.regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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17th October 2017 01:52 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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17th October 2017, 02:21 AM #32GOLD MEMBER
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I guess there's no "concept design" that gives us free-flowing air in any building at -25C,
no matter what clothing we can imagine wearing. No matter how warm the indoor building walls are.
No home is planned for that air volume heating.
Forced air, oil-fired furnace central heating system. This will heat the air in the house but never
fast enough to cope with a the make-up for a big DC system.
When my house is cold, say 15C, I can get the air up to 20C in maybe 20 minutes.
The walls stay cold (with convection drafts) for several hours.
That's every reason why we do not push furniture up against walls.
Wood pellet fired wood stove with fan assisted house circulation.
This is slow steady, even heating that takes hours to bring the house up from 15C to 20C.
1/2 the cost of the oil-fired furnace. About $1500 per winter.
I'll give that wood stove a boost with the furnace.
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17th October 2017, 12:33 PM #33
We don't pretend to have to deal with the extreme cold of our far northern hemisphere Forum friends, but even at temperatures below 10c I find that steel tools become too cold to hold in my bare hands, so I always wear tight fitting rigger style leather gloves. They also serve to protect my hands when the steel becomes too hot to touch when sharpening.
They also protect my hands from flying pieces of bark and splintery shavings.
Rubber matting on floor also helps to keep my boots off the concrete. Thermals and a second pair of socks also helps in high winter.
As for Summer, nothing helps when the extractor is running (which is mostly) and the thermometer is above 40c.
Sent from my ZTE T84 using TapatalkStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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17th October 2017, 02:49 PM #34.
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It's interesting to hear the OP say "can't wear long sleeve jumper or gloves", whereas like Neil I don't worry about wearing either .
The obvious thing about jumpers is to make sure they're not sloppy or loose at the cuffs. Something like a close fitting tracky top or even button cuffed thick long sleeved flannel shirt should be fine.
If the cuffs really bother you, they can always be cut off.
With gloves I guess it comes down to what you are doing.
I often wear gloves when roughing down because like Neil says, it saves your hands, besides during that stage your hands should be nowhere near the workpiece. And once again close fitting so there's less likelihood of them being grabbed. For sanding I take them off.
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17th October 2017, 05:04 PM #35GOLD MEMBER
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Neil, you should consider moving down the hill to Strathalbyn, I notice a marked difference between here and the hills. I'm a postie up at Aldgate, just the drive up the hill to get to work I see the temperature drop by 10c in winter. My shed here in Strathalbyn is workable in the winter. I don't think I could get enthusiastic in the hills in winter though. [emoji1]
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17th October 2017, 10:46 PM #36
NeilS, I've got some rubber floor matting, and you're right, it makes a massive difference.
BobL, a couple of people have mentioned the long sleeves thing, and I think you're on the money with it just not being baggy. I may get a long sleeved thermal top, as they're generally skin tight, and wear it like the cool kids, with a t-shirt and vest style jacket etc over the top. That will keep any baggyness well away from my arms.
Regarding gloves. I may investigate some of those skin tight thin type gloves they sell at the hardware (I only have riggers at the moment), and see how I go with them. I used to always wear gloves, until I saw an image of some fingers having been "de-gloved". I told my son about it when we were working in he shed together one day, but pleaded with him not to google it, as it's one of those things you can never un-see.
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17th October 2017, 11:01 PM #37.
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Regarding gloves. I may investigate some of those skin tight thin type gloves they sell at the hardware (I only have riggers at the moment), and see how I go with them. I used to always wear gloves, until I saw an image of some fingers having been "de-gloved". I told my son about it when we were working in he shed together one day, but pleaded with him not to google it, as it's one of those things you can never un-see.
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19th October 2017, 10:10 AM #38
Cal, I'm sure Strath would be almost tolerable in winter, but I don't think my family, who all live up here in the hills, would agree to the move... : -= )
A few years back my wife and I would travel up to the Qld Sunshine Coast for the worst few months of winter (and joined the Blackall Ranges Woody Club for a place to turn), but after a few years that trip became a hassle and we gave it away.
I just do less turning in winter nowadays.
Sent from my ZTE T84 using TapatalkStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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19th October 2017, 02:52 PM #39
I have tried most and the rancher style gloves from the hardware shops are good, but expensive. I have also tried the fingerless ones that bike riders use, but settled on a modified rigger style, partly on cost. But you do need to start with them very tight.
I add a side seam to tighten the cuff around the wrist and a press stud to get them on and off. Besides making them safer, I find that this is needed to stop the shavings feeding down inside the gloves. Photo attached.
The black marker line is where I will add a slit to allow my thumb to slip in and out so I don't have to remove the glove to check the sharpness of tools, etc.
I don't want to start an OH&S war, but any piece of machinery that is close enough to gloved fingers to cause an accident will do the same on bare fingers. The gloves give no extra protection from such accidents and if tight and secure they do not make you any more prone to them unless you mistakenly think you are invulnerable because you are protected by the gloves.
I also wear airforce pilot's overalls in the workshop; the sort that zip up and tighten up with velcro at all openings. I wear these to minimise the amount of dust getting into my clothing. I'm an asthmatic, so need to avoid taking dust home with me, particularly as I work with Blackwood a lot. I can add multiple thermal layers underneath without causing the external layer to be loose.
IMG_20171019_131619.jpg
Sent from my ZTE T84 using TapatalkStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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19th October 2017, 03:28 PM #40
I think of it like this. If a spinning something hits my bare hand, it's likely to tear the skin and leave a cut/gash etc. If I'm wearing something that's a lot tougher than my skin, rather then rip through, it will grab and pull my hand into/around whatever is spinning. That's the root of my fear of gloves near spinning things. If anyone wants to suggest it's a false position to hold, I'd be more than happy to listen.
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19th October 2017, 05:42 PM #41SENIOR MEMBER
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I completely agree with this statement, i'm not a turner so can't comment in regards to wood turning, but find with ripping timber for example i find having gloves significantly improves my safely. I find that when I'm ripping lumber particularly lumber that is splintery (old jarrah) I'd hold the piece very cautiously, this increases the liklihood of it moving away from the fence and potentially kicking back, with gloves i am perfectly happy feeding it as per usual.
I've got a pair of Ironclad "Framers" gloves and can highly recommend them, they are fingerless for your thumb, first and second fingers and regular gloves for your ring and pinky finger. So you still have full feel where you need it and excellent protection for the remaining digits. The trick i find it to buy them as snug as you're comfortable with as they do stretch slightly after use.
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19th October 2017, 06:29 PM #42
Xfigio, if your intuition is that something is dangerous then listen to your intuition. Far be it from me to encourage you or anyone else to do otherwise.
My intuition and careful forethought has kept me safe and served me well so far. I hope yours has/will serve you equally well.
I'm very cautious when it comes to safety issues (I look like an astronaut when I'm at the lathe), but for me wearing gloves in the way I have outlined is among the less potentially dangerous things I do.
BUT, it may not be for you, so DON'T DO IT if you think it may be dangerous.
There are enough risks in life that you can't avoid without adding any unnecessary ones.
Sent from my ZTE T84 using TapatalkStay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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19th October 2017, 09:19 PM #43
I used to be super careful never to use any power tool where there was a coil in the power or extension cord, because the increased inductance would make the brushes in the motor burn out. Then someone explained that it was silly. It was a sad day when I realised that my intuition was fallible. As such, I am open to changing how I do things if a reasonable argument it provided. I'm certainly not going to abandon what I consider safe. Sometimes however we can be shown that something previously considered unsafe is in fact ok with the correct precautions.
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19th October 2017, 10:46 PM #44.
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Maybe you are confusing that with fully unravelling an extension cord before use with a power tool as the increased inductance will increase the impedance and this could overheat the cord?
The extent of the overheating depends on the current being drawn for small power tools the effect is minimal but for larger more powerful tools the effect can be significant and melt the insulation and even start a fire?
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20th October 2017, 07:40 AM #45GOLD MEMBER
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Probably easiest to determine the sharpness of a turning edge by holding it up to a very bright light.
If the edge is sharp, it's a "zero edge" and for the most part, there's no reflective surface.
If the edge is in any way worn and/or crumpled, that presents a flattened reflective surface for the bright light.
Actually quite easy to see even without a 10X magnifier. I call these "sparks" of light.
Rather important to find on wood carving edges because they will leave an unsightly scratched surface.
I suppose that the sharper your turning tools are, the more chips/shavings and less dust they produce?
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