Thread: Some Dusty advice needed

At that budget you're going to be best served scoping out the second hand market for a 2HP dust extractor. They usually sell for 100-300 dollars depending on condition and should fit your requirements nicely.

Yes, I've had a look around and there's not a lot available in this neck of the woods. I really wanted to know if a two hp single bag type would do the job. Stuff like the physics of air vis a vis pipe diameter and distance between machines and dusty.
thanks for the response.
cheers

I don't think you can realistically control you shop's dust with 2hp and 4" ducting and not have to wear a mask, much less for the monies you are talking about. It won't be comfortable but I suggest you get a full face cartridge respirator and wear it from the moment you start working until you shake off the dust on your clothes and leave the shop for the day. A good vacuum cleaner, while wearing the respirator, to clean up the shop to keep the dust and shavings from burying you. My suggestion is a stop gap measure until you can save up more money to put in at least 6" ducting and the exhaust out of the shop. If your work is causing you to get sick all night now it won't be long until it becomes permanent, even with the system you are contemplating.

Pete

Pete's advice is sound read it carefully. Especially the bit about venting the DC outside.

Short lengths of 4" PVC ducting using conventional 2HP DC technology will at most transport around 425 CFM, there is nothing you can do about this, and longer lengths just make it worse.
425 CFM is considered about 2.5x less than what is needed for adequate levels of dust control from machinery.
To move decent amounts of air using a conventional DC 6" ducting is essential. This can move around 1250 CFM provided the DC is up to the task.
The problem with the conventional 2HP DC is that it is throttled at the input and by the connection between the impeller and the filter/collection bag housing.
This means if you attach 6" ducting to a 2HP DC it won't draw significantly more air.

If you look in the Generic 2HP DC sticky at the top of the DUST forum you will see how to modify a 2HP to generate around 850 CFM - still some ways from generally accepted requirements but better than the stock DC.

However even this is not the end of the story. Most machinery has 4" ports and where possible these must be opened up to 6" otherwise it will just throttle the air flow down again.

I know this sort of advice brings little joy to woodies but it is what it is.

I agree with Pete. Get a good 3M full-face mask and p3 filters. I've used a 3M 6000 series full-face and found it comfortable to wear. Maybe get a set of overalls that you only use in the workshop and don't bring it into the house with you. I think that this will provide you with a far better level of protection than any dust extraction system for the money.

My experience with a generic 2HP dusty is that it is not good enough even for one machine at a time. I measured under 350CFM with just 1m of 4" flex hose and less than 250CFM with 4m of 4" flex hose attached for my 2HP dusty (no mods).

Like Bob said, you'd also need to run 6" ducting and spend some time modifying your machines for better collection. The table saw, for example, really needs a 6" port as well as over-head dust guard to minimize generation.

For some people, wood dust doesn't seem to be a problem. I was watching some Sam Maloof videos and despite making chairs etc for most of his life, commercially, with what appeared to be no dust collection and no PPE he appeared to have no serious health issues into his 90's. I on the other hand am only in my early 30's and am very sensitive to wood dust already. You indicate in your post that you are/were suffering from some health issues; if these are dust related then you really need to find a good solution.

I really hate the fact that there is no cheap, easy and effective solution to the dust problem, at least to my knowledge. I also realise that many people can't afford to buy 5HP Clearvue of similar systems as well as spend a lot of money on ducting etc. I'm not sure what the solution is in this case. Maybe there isn't one.

The single best thing we could do before adding dust collection is to stop building the dust traps we call workshops. Four walls, a few windows and one door is the best way to ensure that dust stays in the shed.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

The single best thing we could do before adding dust collection is to stop building the dust traps we call workshops. Four walls, a few windows and one door is the best way to ensure that dust stays in the shed.

Very true. I'm sure working outside would help.

Of course we would then see many more chronic back issues from people constantly moving their 5HP 3PH Table saws and 60" drum sanders outside

Build the shed on a large slab with a roof that extends to the edge of the slab. The shed walls are back from the edge of the slab and open up all round like a series of doors. The machinery stays in place but the slab gives a big covered work area that can be utilised.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Build the shed on a large slab with a roof that extends to the edge of the slab. The shed walls are back from the edge of the slab and open up all round like a series of doors. The machinery stays in place but the slab gives a big covered work area that can be utilised.

Awesome idea. Maybe one day when I'm older and have enough cash to build my retirement "grand designs" home I'll be able to build an epic workshop that opens right up and provides both cover and natural ventilation. That would be amazing; the feeling of working outside but with the comforts of a stationary workshop. Now just need to figure out where to find more money...

I'll have to wait for a little more global warning.

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

I'll have to wait for a little more global warning.

Immigrate

Hmm, I wonder if a lower middle class, almost pensioner would be at the top of the most desirable list?

Dust Collection Research - Home

If you don't read this, 'you're a fool to yourself, and a danger to others' as Roy and HG used to say (amongst others).

I now have a cyclone and collector pipe set up as close to his prescriptions as I can.

Your lungs never heal when they are damaged.

Originally Posted by Shedhand

Hey all, well I'm back in the shed at last moderately healthy. Doing a lot of restoration work which means a lot of sanding and if I don't get some kind of dust collection going I'm gonna die. Hack and cough all night after a day in the shed. Mostly old varnish, poly, and super dry wood dust. Arghhh"
Not only that, I have some bigger machinery that feed into a dinky little dusty that fills up daily -when using the machines.
I have 15" Carbatec thicknesser, a Laguna LT14 SUV bandsaw, an ancient 12" Carbatec tablesaw with an open base and shop made router table with the big Triton router mounted under. The router table I built has a sealed cavity underneath the router cavity which I intend fitting a 4" hose outlet into.
i want to connect all 4 machines via ceiling mounted 100mm PVC stormwater pipe and 4" flexible concertina hose. I will need blast gates too I guess.
I have a fairly large workshop pretty much full of W.I.P. stuff so I've had to install wheels under the table saw and router table for more room. The bandsaw and thicknesser are close together as they have to share a single 15 amp power point. I'll have to install another 15amp power point for the dusty when I get it.
The problem I have is that I only have $400 to spend on a dusty until some money for my current projects come in. Another $150 will need to be spent on pipes, flexible hose etc.
So can someone here advise me what the best way to go is.
I have stolen the vacuum cleaner from the housemate in desperation and hooked it up to my home made cyclone dusty to use with my sanders.

Any advice is gratefully accepted.
cheers
sheddie.

Sheddie, why are you sanding?!

If you are cleaning up an existing surface, removing varnish and paint, etc, you could be scraping instead. Use an environmental friendly softener first, then scrape away the cr@p with a carbide-bladed scraper. Once this is off, use a card scraper, and then lightly hand sand.

Carbide scrapers are cheap. They last many times those using tool steel.

For sanding, I use a Mirka hand sander with Abranet mesh. This lasts and lasts like you cannot imagine. Plus it is connected to my vacuum cleaner, and this makes sanding easier and cleaner. Grits are available from about 60 through 1000 ...














Regards from Perth

Derek