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Thread: The Generic 2HP DC
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23rd September 2017, 12:21 AM #271
Ah! I see now. Well, I have some tube and red dye. It will be a good test to see the difference between clear and blocked.
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23rd September 2017 12:21 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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23rd September 2017, 10:08 AM #272
FYI: Larger sloping manometer I made years ago, tested against a digital manometer.
Digital unit if you don't want to make one.
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23rd September 2017, 01:59 PM #273.
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23rd September 2017, 02:16 PM #274
Well there you go, I should have added to my post that it's the one I have as well
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1st October 2017, 05:58 PM #275Woodworking mechanic
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Generic 2hp motor shaft size
Does anyone know the shaft size for the genetic 2hp DC motors? Also, do you know if shafts are generally the same size for all the genetic 2hp Motors?
I would have to dismantle a shed etc to measure mine, so hoping someone knows
Cheers.
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1st October 2017, 09:35 PM #276.
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All the shafts I have seen for the generic 2HP DC motors have the same but I cannot say for sure what that is.
Standard shaft size for a 2HP induction motors (based on a 90S frame) motors is 24mm so if you look for that on the motor name plate that will be a useful cue.
Some 2HP motors (e.g. on bandsaws) do have their 24mm shafts turned down to 19 mm but that should be fair obvious by looking at the top of the impeller.
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1st October 2017, 11:22 PM #277Woodworking mechanic
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Thanks Bob. I may be able to get my hands on a 3hp motor cheap. It has a 25mm shaft and I was thinking I may be able to replace the 2hp DC motor with it.
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1st October 2017, 11:30 PM #278.
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3HP motors usually have 24 or 28 mm shafts.
I assume you realise that a 3HP motor won't make any difference unless a larger impeller and impeller housing are used? Both the 2 and 3HP will spin at the same speed at 50Hz. If you install a 3P motor and a vid you can spin the existing impeller faster and get more flow.
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2nd October 2017, 09:07 AM #279Woodworking mechanic
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2nd October 2017, 10:01 AM #280.
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If the impeller has a 24mm bore that's going to be tricky.
It cannot be bored out with just a drill bit as bits are too inaccurate so the impeller will need to be mounted on a lathe and the bored using a boring jig..
Spinning a 12" impeller on a lathe is a job for a large lathe and someone that knows what they are doing.
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2nd October 2017, 11:28 AM #281Woodworking mechanic
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Lathe work is not a problem and neither is balancing. Maybe it would be easier to turn the armature shaft down if it hadn’t been hardened.
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2nd October 2017, 12:06 PM #282GOLD MEMBER
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Don't forget that increasing rpm to get more flow is less efficient than increasing impeller size at the same rpm. However it also depends on the amount of resistance in your ducting system as you'll get a significantly higher max static pressure increasing rpm. But i would guess even a 2hp "modified dusty" is unlikely to produce 2hp at 60hz in a typical, connected system including a machine. Has anyone measured the amp draw of a modified 2hp when conncted to ductwork and a machine? I recall my 2hp unit only producing about 1.3hp (can't remember exactly off the top of my head but remember it was low) wide open with no ductwork and a new pleated filter.
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13th February 2018, 07:48 PM #283Intermediate Member
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I fabricated this 'Jonno' style adaptor out of plywood to modify a generic Carbatec 2hp DC and connect the bag ring directly to the impeller output.
In the end I've decided on a totally different way to do the mod so don't need this part any more.
If anybody reading this thread would like it for your own mod, you can have it for the cost of postage - just PM me.
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7th September 2018, 10:22 AM #284Member
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21st September 2018, 10:27 AM #285SENIOR MEMBER
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I'm starting to mod the intake for my Carbatec 2hp dusty. I have a 16mm melamine faced MDF disc to replace the metal impeller cover and a 25mm mdf backing plate to make a total of 41mm with which to form the reverse BMH. These both have a hole machined to the id of the 6 inch DWV pipe. I then have a further 2 25mm mdf plates with holes machined to the od of the pipe so the pipe will slip in and fit to the reverse BMH.
I have come to a standstill with regard to forming the reverse BMH. I don't have a lathe, or access to one, and a 38mm roundover bit is prohibitively expensive for what will possibly be a one time use.
Has anyone got any other suggestions, or even a router bit that I could borrow/hire?
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