Thread: Getting from 6" to 5"/3.5"

Hi RSG,
Not sure if this will help, but I recently received a great 6" to 2 x 4" wye from Amazon (search for Big Horn products). It was around $10 and cheap freight when in with some other items

Hi RSG,
Not real sure what you are aiming to do but sounds like you want a transition from 6" to 5" as well as have a 3.5" ideally the transition should be made so both smaller sizes transition into the 6", not good to have the 3.5" going into the 5" and then the 5" into the 6" as this will potentially limit your maximum air flow

This is a 2 into 1 transition with each leg the same size, for yours one will be 5" and the other will be 3.5", good test for your sheety skills
Attachment 218070

This is an alternative, 2x45° 120 dia. into the main line, yours could be one at 5" and one at 3.5"
Attachment 218071
this is possibly a bit easier to do than the previous but probably not as good for the best flow although there wouldn't be much in it

and this is just four the same size into the main line, (2 mainline sections with 2 inlets) If I need one inlet for a machine I make up a section of mainline with 2 inlets for spare, has been handy for when I have needed auxilliary collection
multiple branches into main line.jpg


Pete

The section of Bill's site I'm referring to is here (Dust Hoods section) and the images are after the text (router table is the clearest in terms of what I'm after)

Pete, your first pic is probably the closest to what I'm after but I doubt I could make it without using so much profanity that the devil himself asks me to tone it down

Attached is something that better shows what I'm thinking about doing but don't know where to put the 3.5 - although from what you're saying it sounds like I could/should put it in the 6" just above the start of the transition.

...although...it would be easier to mark out and cut from the transition while it is still flat...


(Oops, the attachment shouldn't have the 3.5 protuding into the ducting like that)

I would use 6" to 4" and do the 5" and 3.5" adaptions at the machine port itself by taking a 6" or 4" fitting and turning pieces of wood or plastic to match.

Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy

The section of Bill's site I'm referring to is here (Dust Hoods section) and the images are after the text (router table is the clearest in terms of what I'm after)

Pete, your first pic is probably the closest to what I'm after but I doubt I could make it without using so much profanity that the devil himself asks me to tone it down

Attached is something that better shows what I'm thinking about doing but don't know where to put the 3.5 - although from what you're saying it sounds like I could/should put it in the 6" just above the start of the transition.

...although...it would be easier to mark out and cut from the transition while it is still flat...


(Oops, the attachment shouldn't have the 3.5 protuding into the ducting like that)

Looking at the router table pic in Bill's site shows the 5 going to the underside/cabinet and the 3.5 going to the table guard with the 3.5 coming from the transition (the conical section) This is fine but position the 3.5" inlet towards the larger end of the conical transition and the hole can be cut out while flat no dramas, leave yourself 10mm of tab for joining (on the inside of the hole) I wouldn't bother with the tab in the acute angle portion of the hole tho. Also keep the angle low as practical, 15 is better than 30 is better than 45....90
Also it is fine to put it into the 6" main as well if this is easier, the former is probably better from a merging airflow point tho

If we look at equal areas, then 6"=5"+3.3", 3.5" might be a standard US size so is easier to select rather than 3.3" I have seen 80mm and 120mm hose sizes EU standard size?? but I would look at what is readily available in standard sizes for you and go from there even if it meant sizes other than what BP is suggesting, 2x4" into the 6" is not as close as the 5+3.5 but the 2x4" is practical. If you went this way maybe a sheety could draw up a full size template/plan of the flat transition pieces, easily done via computer programs these days and based on your cyclone I reckon you would give it a fair shake

Pete

Ugh. I'm very tried and my brain is mashed from thinking this through for the last week or so. I just spent an hour trying to write a couple of simple questions in response to Bob and have instead decided to give up for the night. I'll have another try tomorrow when I'm less like melting ice-cream.

Thanks for the responses so far though

Originally Posted by BobL

I would use 6" to 4" and do the 5" and 3.5" adaptions at the machine port itself by taking a 6" or 4" fitting and turning pieces of wood or plastic to match.

Sorry, let me clarify.
If you have a 5" port on a machine I would run 6" all the way to the machine and adapt to the 5" port at the machine. Same with the 3.5" port, ie run 4" all the way to the machine and adapt there to the 3.5"

Ah rightio. Gotcha. It was getting to the ports that I didn't understand. Thanks.

To get the 4" line I can put in a 6" main/4" take-off PVC fitting (available in Vinidex catalogue - or home made), which is going to be the easiest, and probably neatest solution given how everything is arranged in ye olde shed.


Once this is done I just need to sort out the exhaust and I'll be finished and can then post some piccies instead of dodgy drawings

Bob's suggestion I would think would be better re total flow as it gives less length of the smaller hose sizes


Pete

Agreed.

Not that you suggested anything particularly bad either Pete. BobL's solution is also quicker and easier and I get to use the length of 6" flexi I bought at the start of the year instead of it going to waste and buying other specific sizes.

It's going to hurt cutting the port hole into the TSC-10HB. My poor baby

Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy

Agreed.

Not that you suggested anything particularly bad either Pete. BobL's solution is also quicker and easier and I get to use the length of 6" flexi I bought at the start of the year instead of it going to waste and buying other specific sizes.

It's going to hurt cutting the port hole into the TSC-10HB. My poor baby

One of the few benefits of the contractor saw was needing to make an ally hopper and fit my own 6" port directly underneath it.