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Thread: Laguna 14 inch SUV band saw.
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30th January 2014, 10:37 PM #16
And I was able to buy some sheet PVC offcuts from a local sign writer and cut a hole and glued in some 150mm pipe with PVC glue and fitted it to an expanded hole in the table saw and away we go. Same in the door of the bandsaw. Still have to fabricate something for the jointer/thicky which is a bit of a challenge.
Cheers, Ian"The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"
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30th January 2014 10:37 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th January 2014, 11:12 PM #17... and this too shall pass away ...
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The blade is carbide tipped and cost about $250. I went into shock and forgot the exact figure. blade details are: Kerf 1.2mm, 2 TPI with variable spacing (12,14 and 16mm) to reduce vibration.
Yes, I bought the saw to cut veneers, and to re-saw. The old saw had a max depth of cut of 165 mm ... nowhere near enough.
If you mean what I think you do, I made my own flanges. I heated the end (about 30-35 mm) of a piece of pipe in oil and pressed it against a cutting board to create the flanges. Very quick ... easy ... and best of all, cheap.
Have fun!
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31st January 2014, 09:37 AM #18SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi John
Thanks for the suggestion re the flange on 150mm pipe. What temp did you use and did you need a former to make the tube go out rather than in?
That blade sure is expensive. It would need to work well and last a long time. Can it be resharpened?
Given the cost when it breaks I should be able to charge you a small fortune to weld it together again!!!!
Ron
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31st January 2014, 10:55 AM #19... and this too shall pass away ...
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Ron,
Blades. Break! Please do not put the mockers on me. It can be resharpened up to five times. I did some research before buying the blade, but I wanted to start out with the best blade possible because of my inexperience ... need all the help I can get. From what I read, they used some pretty fancy metallurgy to make these blades. Apparently getting a 1" blade to bend around a 14" wheel without developing stresses/fractures is no mean task. From memory silicone steel is used.
Thermoforming. The oil was hot ... but not so hot that it started to change colour. I used a dessert bowl to begin the forming of the flange, then immediately pressed it onto a cutting board to form the flange at right angles to the pipe. If you over-heat the pipe, it will cause the section of pipe just above the flange to shrink inwards, creating a reduction in diameter. I heated the pipe, pressed it onto the bowl ... not soft enough ... a little more heat ... try the bowl again ... repeat until you get the desired effect.
Keep a bowl of cold water and a rag/sponge handy so you can quickly cool the PVC.
It really is as easy as piddling in bed.
Cheerio!
John
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31st January 2014, 11:38 AM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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John
A 1" blade on 14 " wheels is really pushing it. It must be made of some really magic steel. 1" blades on my 19" saw are not recommended. My only 1" blade is also hardback which is really pushing my luck. Really meant for large commercial saws.
Thanks for the info on thermo forming. Will try it tomorrow Need to buy some cheap cooking oil.
Today I am assembling the ducting section that enters the inlet of the cyclone. The inlet manifold is at approx 10 deg above horizontal which does not match any of my fitting combinations. May have to use a short length of Flexi for the join. This may also help isolating noise from the cyclone resonating down the PVC pipe.
Happy bandsawing
Ron
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