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  1. #16
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    And I was able to buy some sheet PVC offcuts from a local sign writer and cut a hole and glued in some 150mm pipe with PVC glue and fitted it to an expanded hole in the table saw and away we go. Same in the door of the bandsaw. Still have to fabricate something for the jointer/thicky which is a bit of a challenge.
    Cheers, Ian
    "The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
    If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
    And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    Brisbane (Chermside)
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronboult View Post
    Hi John
    The Laguna bandsaws have had good reviews. I particularly like the ceramic guides which are supposed to give very good support to the blade
    Did you buy it to cut Veneers?

    You mention a Resaw King Blade. What is the profile of the teeth and construction? Is it a Bimetal or Tungsten Tipped blade? What width & TPI?
    Finally if I may ask what did the blade cost?
    The blade is carbide tipped and cost about $250. I went into shock and forgot the exact figure. blade details are: Kerf 1.2mm, 2 TPI with variable spacing (12,14 and 16mm) to reduce vibration.

    Yes, I bought the saw to cut veneers, and to re-saw. The old saw had a max depth of cut of 165 mm ... nowhere near enough.

    Quote Originally Posted by ronboult View Post
    I am still looking for some 16 or 19 mm 2 or 3 TPI blade stock for resawing on my saw. I managed to buy 100ft of 1inch 3tpi but when it came it was not flex back and is a bit rigid for my saw. Really suits a much bigger saw than 19" Oh well I will keep looking and something will turn up.

    Have not done much more on Clearview installation over Xmas. Must get a move on since I sold my old DC and have no collector at the moment.

    I desperately need some 150mm flanged pipe fittings to upgrade the outlets on my table & band saw. Any idea where they can be obtained. No body seems to supply larger than 125mm.
    Cheers
    Ron
    If you mean what I think you do, I made my own flanges. I heated the end (about 30-35 mm) of a piece of pipe in oil and pressed it against a cutting board to create the flanges. Very quick ... easy ... and best of all, cheap.

    Have fun!

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brisbane (Macleay Is)
    Posts
    268

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    Hi John
    Thanks for the suggestion re the flange on 150mm pipe. What temp did you use and did you need a former to make the tube go out rather than in?
    That blade sure is expensive. It would need to work well and last a long time. Can it be resharpened?

    Given the cost when it breaks I should be able to charge you a small fortune to weld it together again!!!!
    Ron

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Brisbane (Chermside)
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronboult View Post
    Hi John
    Thanks for the suggestion re the flange on 150mm pipe. What temp did you use and did you need a former to make the tube go out rather than in?
    That blade sure is expensive. It would need to work well and last a long time. Can it be resharpened?

    Given the cost when it breaks I should be able to charge you a small fortune to weld it together again!!!!
    Ron
    Ron,

    Blades. Break! Please do not put the mockers on me. It can be resharpened up to five times. I did some research before buying the blade, but I wanted to start out with the best blade possible because of my inexperience ... need all the help I can get. From what I read, they used some pretty fancy metallurgy to make these blades. Apparently getting a 1" blade to bend around a 14" wheel without developing stresses/fractures is no mean task. From memory silicone steel is used.

    Thermoforming. The oil was hot ... but not so hot that it started to change colour. I used a dessert bowl to begin the forming of the flange, then immediately pressed it onto a cutting board to form the flange at right angles to the pipe. If you over-heat the pipe, it will cause the section of pipe just above the flange to shrink inwards, creating a reduction in diameter. I heated the pipe, pressed it onto the bowl ... not soft enough ... a little more heat ... try the bowl again ... repeat until you get the desired effect.

    Keep a bowl of cold water and a rag/sponge handy so you can quickly cool the PVC.

    It really is as easy as piddling in bed.

    Cheerio!

    John

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Brisbane (Macleay Is)
    Posts
    268

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    John
    A 1" blade on 14 " wheels is really pushing it. It must be made of some really magic steel. 1" blades on my 19" saw are not recommended. My only 1" blade is also hardback which is really pushing my luck. Really meant for large commercial saws.

    Thanks for the info on thermo forming. Will try it tomorrow Need to buy some cheap cooking oil.

    Today I am assembling the ducting section that enters the inlet of the cyclone. The inlet manifold is at approx 10 deg above horizontal which does not match any of my fitting combinations. May have to use a short length of Flexi for the join. This may also help isolating noise from the cyclone resonating down the PVC pipe.

    Happy bandsawing
    Ron

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