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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Ok, frame is up!

    Just sitting on the slab as it is still green, will bolt it down next weekend. Got some colourbond for the roof from the dump cost a whole three dollars!
    Will continue over the next week.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Well I have had some progress on the shed for the DC today. I have been trying to get some cheap/free colourbond the same as the shed with no luck. I rang the mob I got the shed through and they had some excess 3 metre sheets and wanted $20/ sheet, purchased 4 of them and had a spare one here. A mate at work mentioned he had some mdf/ply packing sheets at home, got a trailer load of them this morning. They have been out in the rain but for the DC shed they will be fine. The outside wall is now clad as is the roof. It is raining now, so that's put a stop to it at the moment. See if I can get more done tomorrow.


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  4. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    A little more progress today between showers. Started the lining and insulation.









    The local dump had some colourbond downpipe so I got the nibbler out and cut down its length to form flashing for the timber frame, should help protect it from the weather. Got some vents from Chris aka Node101 (thanks!) I hope this should help the DC breathe a little?

    Cut the hole in the shed for the ducting, will require a little expandable foam to fix the bad cutting!
    It has been slow going compared to framing the shed in the first place, but isn't it always the way

    Cheers Cal

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

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    Cal, if those slotted vents are all you have for the air to get out it won't be enough.
    Either you need to have one big hole or many many more of those slots.

    Take a look at the size of the vent we made up at the mens shed and even that has more restriction than I really like.
    Fortunately there is a gap under the doors that leads our a fair bit of air.
    ClosedDCEnc.jpg

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

    Default Let's see what we can do.....

    Thanks Bob, I thought it may have been a bit restrictive with just those vents. The doors will be the same monoclad as the walls, was thinking if I was not to seal up the top and bottom of the sheets would this be enough to help along with the vents? I do have more vents, could add them to the door panels.

    Oh, and at the top of the door opening there is a gap of 135x45x800 (see image) where I have not fitted a bearer, this could also remain open as the doors will fit just under the roof line.

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,757

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cal View Post
    a gap of 135x45x800 (see image) where I have not fitted a bearer, this could also remain open as the doors will fit just under the roof line.
    It's the cross section of the gap that's important.

    so, 45 x 800 mm is OK, 135 x 800 mm is even better, but 45 x 135 mm is still a bit small.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Time to get the angle grinder out again! Will cut some more vents and work something out with both doors. Still contemplating how to make the doors with enough insulation but keeping them light enough. Will see what hinges are around that will suit the weight, gate hinges something along the lines of what you mentioned that you can remove the door if needed. I won't have the need to remove my doors though. Will get some thinner ply for them also.


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  9. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    37
    Posts
    38

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    Standard stainless steel 100mm door hinges would be fine, use 3. Not sure if you've ever lifted a standard solid core external door before but they are pretty heavy, around 40kg.

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Age
    39
    Posts
    59

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    You could use a standard duracote door. Lighter than a solid but still has the water resistant skin. Also cheaper than solid core.

    Don't forget to put a drip flashing above whatever door you make/use.

  11. #40
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Remember if you want noise reduction you want a layer with some "weight" or more specifically, "high density" and you want a layer of low density as well.
    The doors on my enclosure weight around 45kg each.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Yes, aware of this. The ply I have left is 32mm thick, a little too dense. Will be making frame 90mm deep with insulation as per the walls and colourbond on the outside to match the shed. I understand that there will be some weight to the doors but don't want to go overboard.


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  13. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
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    828

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    Doors don't need to be super thick/heavy, just use the right materials for the job.

    In my enclosure I've got 4mm mass loaded vinyl and 50mm acoustic sound foam. Walls are lined with 12mm plywood. All seams are overlapped and taped.

    I haven't measured db to get actual readings, but to give you an idea standing inside the shed with it running, theres significantly more noise coming from air movement in the ducts which i'm more than happy to live with.

    Also might be bit late, but does that enclosure have sufficient room to not touch the side walls? As DC's create a fair bit of vibration/harmonics which might end up turning your shed into one big vibrating speaker.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Default Let's see what we can do.....

    Thanks tonzeyd, I have started on the doors this arvo, just ended up making a frame from 90x35 and a noggin in the centre then screwed 12mm ply to it. Will have batts in them also, then the colourbond monoclad. There is plenty of width and length to the shed so it doesn't touch the walls at all. I cut the hole in the ply oversized for the duct too. The only thing I will check on is the hole in the shed wall as the duct is a tight fit there. I still have a bit to do to get the enclosure finished so it may be a few weeks away before I get to turn the DC on in the enclosure. Will see how I go. Cheers Cal


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  15. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    4,464

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    I ran a short length of smooth inner wall flexy ( approx. 250mm), just after the inlet to the DC to the main pipe. This prevents any vibration transferring into the pipes in the shed.

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    The ducting through my shed wall is a large radius 90º (6 x 15º) PVC elbow so it is a slot rather than a circular hole. I just cut it 15mm oversize. I then cut up and stuffed foam rubber strips into the gaps.

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