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  1. #46
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    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Good ideas gentlemen thank you both. [emoji1]


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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
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    781

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    Interesting, I have a very tight fit through the shed wall for the 150mm hard ducting, it's about 500mm from the DC intake, no vibration through the shed at all. The ducting hole through the wall of the DC cabinet is large and has one of those heavy rubber seal plumbing boots around it as I was more concerned about vibration into the cabinet from the DC. Noise from the DC and cabinet is so low that it could be used at midnight if we wanted.

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,793

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    Quote Originally Posted by MandJ View Post
    I was more concerned about vibration into the cabinet from the DC.
    That was my problem because initially I removed the DC from the stand and had the DC suspended from the walls of the enclosure (B).
    MOunt.jpg

    I tried all manner of rubber mountings etc under that metal lip (L) and in the end I gave up and put the support legs back on and supported the DC back to the brick paved floor of the enclosure.
    This worked very well.
    legs1.jpg

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    4,470

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    The reason for my short piece of flexy was that any vibration or movement from the DC, no matter how small would be transferred into the piping in the shed and it was with a solid link. The flexy fixed that. If there is vibration in the cabinet then there must be some movementt, even if minimal which will be transferred to the pipes via the solid connection.

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

    Default Let's see what we can do.....

    I am going to have to do some wrangling with the ducting into the enclosure. I initially thought of raising the DC up a little to allow for the fact that there is a top hat in the way at the level where the DC inlet sits. I did my initial measuring and decided on a height for the enclosure to allow for this, this measurement was a little out [emoji848]I don't have the height I thought I did. About 100mm out. I didn't account for the 10* pitch on the roof.

    The plan was to run a 90* bend part the way through the wall and a straight pipe to the DC. I will do some fiddling around with 2 45's and see how that turns out. If not, a bit of flex I guess.

    I still have a bit to do on the enclosure, one door hung (needs cladding) and hope to get the flashing on the other end and both doors this weekend (rain is on its way on Monday). Early start in the morning.


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  7. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Caboolture QLD AU
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    781

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    If you use a 90 bend make sure it's the wide bend fitting - BobL did a lot of testing and the difference is marked, flex is really not good, 90 with good radius is better than 2 x 40 from memory, just on my way out so don't have time to look it up.

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,793

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    Quote Originally Posted by MandJ View Post
    If you use a 90 bend make sure it's the wide bend fitting - BobL did a lot of testing and the difference is marked, flex is really not good, 90 with good radius is better than 2 x 40 from memory, just on my way out so don't have time to look it up.
    see this thread for details
    Air flow calibration measurements

    While we are talking about flexies, it seems like wall smoothness has less of an impact on flow restriction than stiffness.
    The flexy with the ""stiffer corrugated walls is LESS restrictive than the "softer smooth walled stuff.

    One mechanism I can think of is the more flexible stuff moves (even a little) under internal turbulence of the rapidly flowing air and acts as a momentum sink.
    The stiffer stuff resists movement forcing the air to retain it's own momentum

    It appears the only reason for using the softwalled stuff is where super flexibility is essential - otherwise I'd say use as stiff a flex as you can find.

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

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    Got a door almost complete today. Still need to insulate and finish the ply. Added flashing to the rear doorway and a bit more ply to the wall against the shed. It's a slow process dealing with secondhand material, had to de-nail the ply before cutting it. The "flashing" (downpipe) was donated by my shed, have replaced it with pvc for now. Will get more at a later stage to replace what I have stolen from the shed.

    Here is the door.

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    1,141

    Default Let's see what we can do.....

    Had a family outing today, managed to get the second door hung this morning before we left and the cladding on in the last hour. It's now weather proof! Will see what else I can get done over the coming week.
    Oh, and some 150mm pipe (2.5mtrs) from the dump and a bit more flashing for a princely sum of $4!

  11. #55
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    Feb 2015
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    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Quick update, the DC shed is now fully lined and power an dusty in place. I still need to create some more vents but for now at least the dusty is out of my shed and I can start cleaning up again! Will start working on rough placement of machines over the weekend.


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  12. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    54

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    Cal, I'm also about to embark on the same journey as yourself with building my dusty shed and getting all the ducting in place which will be the focus of a WIP thread soon. I believe you're in Adelaide from some of your posts so thought I would share my recent experiences with sourcing 150 stormwater fittings and ducting for anybody that maybe interested.

    In Adelaide I've found it a bit hard to get hold of 150mm stormwater fittings and flexible ducting to fit nicely to a 160mm OD PVC stormwater pipe. I've recently found that both irribiz out and Viss Water at Virginia stock 150 mm stormwater fittings, Y's were around $19 and 45bends were around $14 which I thought was reasonable and haven't been able to find too many others local.

    In terms of flexible ducting I've just come across Total Rubber who quoted my around $330 for 10m of their 160mm ID Ductaflex, spec sheet attached. I thought that price wasn't too bad, what are other peoples thoughts?

    Ducting.pdf

  13. #57
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    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    Thanks for that. As I am rural (Strathalbyn) we have irrigation suppliers in town, prices are similar to what you mentioned and everything is on the shelf. I got two lengths of pipe @2.5m each for $2 total, well one was free and the other $2 from the dump. The irrigation shop wanted $65 for 6mtrs, compared to Bunnings and tradelink who were well over the $100 dollar mark.
    I hope to only use a small amount of flexi, 10mtrs is way too long for me would never use it all. I haven't looked at what's around yet, it's been a job just trying to have the time to finish the enclosure.
    Look forward to seeing your WIP, I am now trying to clean out the shed to start placing machines. I have so much wood in the way, all off cuts and stuffed everywhere. Clean up begins! [emoji37]


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  14. #58
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
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    4,334

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    Quote Originally Posted by heybluey View Post

    In terms of flexible ducting I've just come across Total Rubber who quoted my around $330 for 10m of their 160mm ID Ductaflex, spec sheet attached. I thought that price wasn't too bad, what are other peoples thoughts?
    The 150mm flex ducting that we connected to the 150mm fixed ducting at our local Men's Shed just fitted inside the 150mm 'fittings'. A tight fit, but it does go in with a bit of encouragement​.

    In Adelaide we sourced the flex ducting from Carbatec and Leda. Your price for 10m of 160mm is about the same per metre, but if you need less you could save some $s. There are also fittings (clamps and gates) for 150mm flex that may not be readily available off the shelf for 160mm.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  15. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Strathalbyn South Australia
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    So with the day clearing and cleaning done here comes the challenge. Some photos of what space I have to work with and an approximation of where I may place the lathe and sander. Open to options and opinions with all of this too.






    The way things sit, the sander and lathe are too close together and there is little room for sorting out the ducting cleanly, my other thought is to sit the lathe or sander on the back wall and run the ducting along the wall over the sink and around the corner. I need to make a dedicated table/stand for the lathe to sit on and would like to upgrade it in the future (not sure what I will end up with yet)
    So fire away and let's see if we can nut this out as a team! [emoji848]Cheers Cal.

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,793

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    Yep it's going to be all too crowded if you try and connect at Bench height level. It will ruin your wall space which is always a premium in a shed. I would take the ducting up over head height and out and down to where you need it.
    It uses more pipe and more junctions but it will make it easier to connect up other things

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