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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MandJ View Post
    Having never felt the motor after it was running I don't know how hot it would normally get, when I felt it it was hot but not hot enough to make you remove your hand instantly, the 0.5HP motor on the old Woodfast lathe felt about the same after an hours use, I couldn't find my non contact temperature reader at the time.
    Were you running it with all blast gates open? if not maybe it was enough to reduce the current a bit?
    Actually I was a bit worried as I now have plastic bags on the bottom and huge pleated filters on top, I had to raise the roof of the DC cabinet/shed about 1/2 meter to fit then in, so not as much air past the motor mounted at the bottom of the housing, I was lucky the exploding cap didn't burn a hole through the one of the plastic bags, it's a bit blackened in one spot but still airtight.
    That is a concern, you don't have to have the cap inside the enclosure near the motor - it could be outside.
    I have all the air exiting my enclosure going past my DC motor. Also 3P so no cap required.

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  3. #17
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    I now have two 30uf 450V caps in parallel (ones stated to have a built in safety device), they run cold. I'm more worried about the motor, cant really get air into the back of it VIA an intake port into the fan intake as the cabinet is slightly pressurised and any intake, even if close fitting around the motor intake, is still fighting the influence of the DC exhaust air pressure.

  4. #18
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    Bob just thinking about airflow past the rear of the motor where the motor intake fan is mounted, I'm going to try a small 6" x 6" vent behind and slightly below the rear of the motor, the air flow exiting there will be pretty slow as the main DC housing exhaust port is very large, that should allow the motor intake fan to grab that slow moving air and it should remove any chance of air recirculating around motor, I'll also put a thermocouple probe on the finned motor housing and monitor the temp.

    BTW the old cap was mounted inside a closed plastic housing bolted to the side of the motor, so it was designed with no air flow over it from day one.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MandJ View Post
    Bob just thinking about airflow past the rear of the motor where the motor intake fan is mounted, I'm going to try a small 6" x 6" vent behind and slightly below the rear of the motor, the air flow exiting there will be pretty slow as the main DC housing exhaust port is very large, that should allow the motor intake fan to grab that slow moving air and it should remove any chance of air recirculating around motor, I'll also put a thermocouple probe on the finned motor housing and monitor the temp.
    Good idea. I have been also dabbling with temp monitoring of my DC motor. Its more because of when I run it at higher speeds.

    BTW the old cap was mounted inside a closed plastic housing bolted to the side of the motor, so it was designed with no air flow over it from day one.
    I wasn't suggesting remote location of the cap to keep it cool but more in case it exploded again.

  6. #20
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    FYI: Just did a test to duplicate the conditions when the cap blew the other day: My wife was using the scroll saw and the DC flow is throttled back on that because of dual 100mm pick-up ports, the DC current was only 7.4A instead of nearly 9A using the Lathe 150mm bell-mouth, the current shot from 7.4A to 11.7A when the caps were disconnected (I have a temporary switch for testing) so the motor ran at 11.7A for almost an hour after the cap blew, like I said, I could still hold my hand on it (not for to long though) so cooling air flow can't be to bad.

    EDIT: 11.7A is around 3.7HP by my calculations.

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I wasn't suggesting remote location of the cap to keep it cool but more in case it exploded again.
    Ok understand, I've got them in a plastic container at the moment, will get something stronger and add a vent to release pressure if they go again.

  8. #22
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    Check that the running capacitor is not a normal AC electrolytic type but is a metallized polypropylene unit. These are rated for continuous operation whereas the electrolytic ones are usually for starter circuits which are an intermittant use.

  9. #23
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