Thread: D/C Pipe Routing Help

The long run into the cyclone is a recommendation rather than a strict requirement.

The RAS and the lathe need all the suck they can get so I wouldn't be doubling back a trunk line just for them.

Maybe go direct to the lathe and then attach an off-shoot to the RAS.

Can you photograph and post a picture of the wall with the CV, lathe and RAS on it so I can see what is involved?

Here's a picture. Piping is from my old setup with a Jet 1100. That d/c was in the same place and did a pretty good job with both lathe and RAS separately. I have only been using d/c on the lathe for sanding. The turning chips don't seem to pose much threat.

BTW, no matter what I do , the image posts upside down! Even if I turn it that way before uploading. ???? Hope you can see this.


Pipe-layout4.jpg

Picture fixed.

from what I can see the RAS is not up against the wall level with the lathe?
Is that correct or will it be pushed back up against the wall?

If not then what about this
Pipe-layout5.jpg

Bob,
Yes, the RAS needs to be against the wall, about where you see the duct descending, you that layout won't work.
The table saw extension is opposite the RAS. At the bottom of the photo you can see that white rectangle is the end of the T/S rip fence rail.
Looks like I should take your suggestion and go direct to the lathe and then attach an off-shoot to the RAS.

How did you fix that image? I looked everywhere on this site.

Btw, do you agree with my lathe d/c practices?

Originally Posted by blackhorse16a

Bob,
Yes, the RAS needs to be against the wall, about where you see the duct descending, you that layout won't work.
The table saw extension is opposite the RAS. At the bottom of the photo you can see that white rectangle is the end of the T/S rip fence rail.
Looks like I should take your suggestion and go direct to the lathe and then attach an off-shoot to the RAS.

OK In this situation it might be an idea to use a couple of 15º bends as they minimise the loss of flow - certainly much better than 45's
How about this? I assume you don't want to minimise blocking the window?
Pipe-layout6.jpg

How did you fix that image? I looked everywhere on this site.

I copied the image back to my computer and then used Photoshop to rotate it. I process all my images before posting, rotation, light levels, crop, save for web

Btw, do you agree with my lathe d/c practices?

I assume you mean the lathe dust hood?
Based on what I can see it looks pretty good but I wouldn't mind seeing a side on picture.
Not sure what the front cover is for?
I've measured quite a number of different hoods and haven't found one that beats the Bell mouth hood especially for Lathe work.

Thanks for your help, Bob.
Last things first, I was referring to only using d/c for sanding.
But now that you mention it, I’ll post some pics. The front part is the gate. I made the thing before reading about bell mouths here. I like your layout idea. Think I’ll go that way.

Pics of the lathe dust hood. Works well. You can see that it slides on the banjo for vertical adjustment.
IMG_0702.jpgIMG_0703.jpgIMG_0704.jpg


Sorry for the orientation, but I rotated the first two 90º right and they uploaded as 180º !
Tried it with Mac Photos and also Photoshop. Very strange.

That is a clever way of mounting your dust capturing system to the banjo. I will investigate my set-up to see if I can create something similar.

Alan...

Thanks for the pics.

A couple of comments/suggestions.

The mesh looks to have ~ 1/4" spacing?
Testing has shown that 1" spacing generates only about a 1% flow loss but the loss of flow increases rapidly as the mesh size is decreased. Air speed measurement in front of the hood may show little or no decrease but that is not the right way to do it - the actual flow in the duct has to be measured.

It's a good idea to have the hood connected to the end of the banjo so that it tracks the tool but it may limit the size of what can be turned on lathes with short banjo's although an extension could be used. I have my hood set up on a separate track rod attached to the lathe bed. Mine can also be rotated/angled to better collect stuff from face work

The right angle on the back of the dust port is definitely going to slow the flow and it would work better if it was curved like this.
It looks like you plenty of room to fit a 90º bend on
Banjoport.jpg

Can make those changes. Thanks.

Nice job

Using PVC piping is OK , But can /it will cause static electricity with the movement of air and dust, running thru it. this can ignite your dust bin!

remedy; simple run a earth wire, thru the centre of the tubing and earthing it at each end. OK, if you guys are using steel tubing must be earth out.

hope this helps Lloyd.

Originally Posted by Lloyd of Karuah

Nice job

Using PVC piping is OK , But can /it will cause static electricity with the movement of air and dust, running thru it. this can ignite your dust bin!

remedy; simple run a earth wire, thru the centre of the tubing and earthing it at each end. OK, if you guys are using steel tubing must be earth out.

hope this helps Lloyd.

Hi Lloyd, welcome to the forum.

The idea that PVC ducting can cause a fire due to static electricity in the dc has been around for a long time but is not correct.
Basic Physics will explain why this is very very unlikely.
WoodCentral Articles & Reviews
To date there has not been a confirmed report fire in a DC due to this effect.
There have been fires but they have been a result of other causes.

Running a wire down the centre of the tubing will have no effect and can cause blockages from wood shavings which will in turn further reduce flow.

Lloyd, BobL is correct. Many WW’ers have gone through a lot of trouble for nothing on this. However, static buildup on the outside does happen. Not a fire hazard but it can zap you. Had it happen when thickness planing. Just put a ground wire around the plastic hose and problem fixed.