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9th February 2017, 09:02 AM #31
Just to put a picture to Chris's words, here is my DC boom but, as Chris says, I had the headroom to be able to use a simple chain support...
image.jpg
It it is made from 90mm(?) C section left over from the shed build, chain braced, hinged to a stud and I've run a 15A circuit along the chain so that when the boom is swung to the machine, I also have a 15A pendant socket right there as well. I have my bandsaw, thicknesser, drum sander and jointer all mounted on castors and parked against a wall. When I want to use one of them, I wheel it to the centre, lock the castors, swing out the boom, connect the DC, plug them in to the 15A circuit and Bob's yer uncle!
Speaking of Bob, the 150mm wall mounted blast gate is from Ezi Duct at $115. Bob is making 6 of his PVC extravaganzas for the same price although I doubt Ezi Ducts sheet metal worker would work for $9 per hour ?
flettya rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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9th February 2017 09:02 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th February 2017, 10:10 AM #32.
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$9/hour was just the setup cost and the making of 4 x 150 mm flanges.
Now I can make a $9, 150 mm flange, in about 10 minutes.
Time required to make a gate depends the type of gate, materials being used and how many gates are being made at the same time.
I'm actually crap at mass production.
Not that I sit around and count cents because 90% of what I do is experimental so $5/hr is about as good as it gets.
The 12, 150mm slider gates I made all out of PVC (i.e. no flange needed) for my shed were made in various batches ranging from 1 to 4 gates per batch.
The first gate took me about 4 hours, but the last batch of 3 gates took about the same time.
The first 150 mm, all PVC, rocker gate I made for myself also took about 4 hours.
PVC sands quickly and beautifully and cleans the belts at the same time.
The first 150 mm Al/PVC rocker gate I made for the mens shed took me about a day.
Then I made a batch of 4 gates in about 2 days - these proved not to be strong enough so I had to remake them - now they are working well.
The second batch of 4 took about 2.5 days because they had to be made strong from the start.
But now I have flange making capability it should be be quicker - hard to say how much until I make a batch.
I have the Al cut and 1/2 of the pieces sanded for a batch of 4 150 mm rockers for the mens shed and will use PVC flanges for these.
But the next thing I have to do is make two 150mm Al/PVC sliders for the mens shed.
I already have the flanges made so it should be reasonably quick
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7th September 2017, 11:43 AM #33Novice
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OK, time to bring an old thread back! For those following, i moved into the new house in July, and have been busy building tables, jigs, etc for the workshop. Ive built a large 1200 x 1800 mobile assembly table / outfeed table, a permanent mitre saw station with stop block which can cut up to 2.9m, a thicknesser cart and various jigs.
Now getting back to the dust collection....
From re-reading posts, i believe the most valuable thing is to have the DC outside the shed, enough airflow, and run on 6" pipe. To get the DC outside, there will have to be a vertical run of about 2m, then a horizontal run through a roof space of about 6m to get me to the workshop. From there, the workshop is about 5 x 5m.
If i have the DC outside, is there any advantage of the CV1800 over say a twin bag 3HP unit apart from not having to clean the filters as often? From the sounds of it, the CV is going to be about around $5000 posted, wheras a decent 3HP SP unit could be half of that. Would a 3HP unit be enough for an 8m run before it enters the workshop?
.....Tearing my hair out with all the information flying around - help from an expert would be greatly appreciated!!
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7th September 2017, 12:03 PM #34.
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This is a no brainer, the CV1800 has a better fan curve than any 3HP DC I have tested and that is even before the filter bags get clogged.
This means the CV will generate more suck and pull more air/dust at all times especially over those distances.
BTW if you vent outside the CV needs NO filters so there is no filter cleaning.
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7th September 2017, 12:18 PM #35Novice
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Thanks Bob, That will save around $1000 then if no filters needed. Is this ok in suburbia though?? We do have a large school building next door which is an advantage. What is the best way to vent for best noise / dust dissipation for a suburban environment? I will obviously need to build a "lean-to"enclosure for the unit which i will install acoustic insulation....
Also, for exterior installation, can you have the VFD and switch in the workshop for ease of use?
sorry for all the questions!
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7th September 2017, 12:22 PM #36GOLD MEMBER
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Also the CV1800 is closer to 5HP not 3 and has a 15" or 16" impeller vs 13-14 for a lot of the 3HP units. It also runs off a VFD that gives you 60Hz and increases max static pressure significantly ie. 40%+. Like Bob says you won't need a filter so that will save you over $1k and no ongoing filter cleaning burden.
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7th September 2017, 12:32 PM #37Novice
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Just thought of another option if going the CV1800 route - i could install the Unit in the workshop, up high out of the way and have the 6m run in the roofspace as part of the exhaust, not the intake. What would the cost differences / efficiencies be with this setup. ie the cost of 6m 150mm PVC instead of what could be used for exhaust ductwork.
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7th September 2017, 12:42 PM #38GOLD MEMBER
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You want to run 200mm ducting for the exhaust. You can use hvac insulated ducting which has the added/required benefit of attenuating the exhaust noise and is cheaper than 10" pvc. Just be aware it is more fragile / easier to puncture. I used 8" heavily insulated acoustic hvac ducting which i then taped over and wrapped additional 50mm acoustic batting around and taped over again. This reduced exhaust noise a lot and resulted in barely audible exhaust noise at the exit point through a china-mans hat on the roof.
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7th September 2017, 12:54 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
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7th September 2017, 01:44 PM #40Novice
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Yep, i did think about that after my last post
SO, apart from extra space requirements of having the unit inside the workshop (its only a 600 x 600mm footprint anyway), as long as i have the exhaust routed outside, is this the best option from a cost / efficiency point of view rather than having the machine outside where i have 8m of inlet ducting to get to the workshop AND having to build an enclosure with soundproofing etc. If so I may be digging myself out of the big dust collection conundrum hole i had been in
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7th September 2017, 01:59 PM #41GOLD MEMBER
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I go straight up through the roof with mine. Easy. Works well.
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7th September 2017, 02:49 PM #42GOLD MEMBER
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I go straight up through the roof with mine. Easy. Works well.
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7th September 2017, 03:29 PM #43.
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I'd still put it outside if you can. If you have it inside you should still vent it outside so you need ducting to do that with.
As well as releasing workshop space, having it outside moves the noise outside, and if the system leaks or the collection bin inadvertently overfills , sawdust will end up all over your shed.
When It comes time to empty the bin I'd much rather do that task outside than inside.
A CV may not even need an enclosure if the neighbours are a school, and you may get away with just a muffler (search for Muffler on the forum) and a bit of sound insulation over the impeller.
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7th September 2017, 06:04 PM #44Woodworking mechanic
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Reading the above, it would seem to be indicated that the CV cyclone is that good that it does not emit fine dust or, if it does, its OK to vent that into the atmosphere?
Just querying.
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7th September 2017, 06:45 PM #45GOLD MEMBER
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The CV doesn't remove all of the very fine dust and yes it is OK to vent some very fine dust into the atmosphere, as long as it's not directly into someones air intake.
The venting disperses the dust to lower the concentration and as soon as it encounters moisture (rain/dew) it is washed out of the air and settles on the ground.
Just like smoke, it's not a problem untill there is too much of it and then the troubles begin.
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