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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    96

    Default Purchasing/Setting up New DC System - Advice

    Hi Folks,

    I’m looking at installing a dust extraction system in my workshop – a double care garage. Currently I use a mobile 2HP DC.
    Can some users please give me some advice about what DC system I should purchase? Reading all the forums, I’m guessing a Clearvue might be the best. However, space is limited to store the clearvue outside. The main features I want in a DC include:

    Must:
    - DC to be located outside of workshop with ducting running in the workshop. A separate small housing/shed will be built to store the DC.
    - A portable mobile start/stop switch capability

    Desirable, but not mandatory:
    - Operates on a 15amp single phase power point (I already have a spare 15amp power point available in the workshop).

    I have a budget of $5,000 for the DC – but that’s including building a small shed and ducting. I might be able to stretch it if required to get a good system.

    The main questions I have for the Clearvue include:

    1. Firstly, given the DC will be located outside, do I need the filters?
    2. What is the width of the CVMAX? I am considering building the housing outside my workshop. There is a gap between the house and the stepped footpath (see photo). It is only 800mm wide, will that suffice, given the thick walls/outer layers the shed will be built from?
    3. What’s the recommended/max distance the DC should be located from the shed without loosing performance?
    4. Can anyone give advice about where to buy metal ducting – I want metal not PVC.

    Please let me know your thoughts.

    Regards,
    Raymond.

    house outside 3.JPGHouse outside 2.JPGHouse outside 1.JPG

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    1,255

    Default

    1. No, you can do without filters if located outside IMO. I'd still locate your exhaust point up high (above roof line) to help dissipate the small dust particles.

    2. Not sure, I'd need to check mine, but sounds do-able.

    3. I don't think there is necessarily a max distance provided we aren't talking huge distances. Straight 6" or 8" smooth bore pipe doesn't add that much static pressure, the elbows/junctions are far more the issue for any normal setup.

    4. Sorry, no.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Thornton NSW
    Posts
    456

    Default

    Metal speedlock ducting will blow a big hole in your budget. It's not so much the cost of the straight runs which are expensive enough at ~$50/m but bends and transitions and junctions and blast gates. A single tapered wye can be hundreds of dollars. Even the clamps to join sections are expensive. It's also more complicated to work out the layout because junctions and tapers aren't set lengths, you have to calculate them from formulas based on the start and end diameters. Working in pvc is much more straightforward because you just cut the straight sections to length. You can use telescopic metal duct, but again it adds cost.

    If that hasn't deterred you, give Eximo, Ezi Duct or airtight solutions a call.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DomAU View Post
    1. No, you can do without filters if located outside IMO. I'd still locate your exhaust point up high (above roof line) to help dissipate the small dust particles.
    Depends how close the neighbours are and their attitude to your activities. You might get some noise at the exit and if there are any disasters and you get some visible dust out and then ???
    For this reason I have mine at ground level.

    The width depends on how tight the exit radius of the junction between the impeller and the exhaust is, and the size of your muffler. The 1R junction from CLearvue is pretty ordinary so our mens shed made a 2.5R junction and our muffler is 400 x 400 mm in cross section. This bought thee overall width ~ 1.2 m

    Not sure why you want metal ducting.
    You can of course pay top $ and get it all made for you but then every time you want to modify it twill cost more $$.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    828

    Default

    i second other peoples comments regarding cost of metal ducting, if you do a quick google search for metal ducting you'll find a bunch of companies that will do it. Give some of them a call and unless you have a strong compelling reason to get metal ducting other than aesthetics you'll get put off the price tag. eg be prepared to spend your entire budget on ducting alone.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    96

    Default

    The width depends on how tight the exit radius of the junction between the impeller and the exhaust is, and the size of your muffler. The 1R junction from CLearvue is pretty ordinary so our mens shed made a 2.5R junction and our muffler is 400 x 400 mm in cross section. This bought thee overall width ~ 1.2 m.
    If I kept with the standard junction supplied by Clearvue, do you know the measurements?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodlogic View Post
    If I kept with the standard junction supplied by Clearvue, do you know the measurements?
    The official footprint in the manual is
    Footprint: 600mm x 600mm, or 600mm x 1050mm if using filters,

    This assumes you don't want the side intake duct inside your enclosure.
    There's no need to have it inside the enclosure but it looks a lot tidier if it is.
    If you want the in take take arm enclosed that you'll need to make it about 1.8m

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Brisbane (Chermside)
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,076

    Default

    Thought you might find this interesting, from Bill Pentz's site.

    Frequently Asked Ducting Questions
    I'm at that nice place in life where money is important, but not going to drive my ducting decision. After retiring I fell in love with woodworking, have just finished building a large shop, and am slowly adding one machine after another. It seems that every time I add another machine, I have to move at least one or more of the existing machines. What ducting would you recommend for someone who wants minimum upset and trouble to do the install and later move things around?


    I am also in a fairly similar place, except I have kind of been there and done that with all the different types of ducting. The simple answer to your question is with time instead of money being a driving force in my world, I would install high end laser welded duct with the built in seals and snap lock fittings. Airflow is great because the seams are so smooth you can hardly tell where the pieces were joined. I also am an admitted tool junkie who keeps adding tools, so has to constantly reconfigure my ducting and shop layout. The airtight seals and clamps allow quick installation and even faster reconfiguration. To reconfigure just release the clamps, make the changes and then reclose the clamps. Plus, with my now in retirement and thinking about a downsized new home with a separate shop, this system would allow for easy disassembly and reassembly. If finances preclude that expensive duct then I would go for all PVC. I think the spiral pipe and HVAC ducting solutions work well, but they are a bloody pain to install and even more difficult to later change.

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