sealing DC enclosure doors

**Kuffy** · 3rd February 2017, 10:18 PM

My dust enclosure is inside the workshop, and that is where it will remain. I built an enclosure for it a couple years ago with the view to reduce the amount of sound that the neighbours can hear. It was successful however the thing leaks like a sieve. I didn't put any effort into making sure it was a sealed unit. So now I am considering rebuilding the thing to do both noise reduction and to be sealed and vented outside.

I can seal the primary structure well enough, but I can't figure out how to seal the doors which will need to open outwards. Ideally the doors would open inwards, so that when the unit is slightly pressurised when operating, that pressure presses onto the seals rather than pulling away from the seals.

I don't want to use foam/rubber weather strip and simply clamp the doors down hard to those seals, because those seals compress and become next to useless in a short amount of time.

The enclosure will sit hard up in the corner of the workshop, so I don't believe sliding doors will be an option because I won't have access to open one of the doors.

The DC is a twin bag DC7

**BobL** · 3rd February 2017, 10:35 PM

I agree the foam sealer is not a good idea.

Better is a D profile medium/hard rubber seal like a garage door seal
eg https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/garage-door-seal

There are may other examples on the Clarke rubber site.

I have a similar seal on my enclosure doors that I found a roll of during council kerbside pickup but have not been too religious about how it fits because it is outside.

To get adjustable pressure onto the seal I would use something like these cam latches which are available from trailer an caravan stores.

Screen Shot 2017-02-03 at 7.32.38 PM.png

**QC Inspector** · 4th February 2017, 01:28 AM

Try imitating a walk in freezer / refrigerator door. There are a multitude of gaskets and latches etc., that would work nicely. Not the cheapest route but maybe you can locate a used door or hardware and put new gaskets on it.

Pete

**Kuffy** · 4th February 2017, 10:01 AM

Thanks guys, I think the D shape rubber will work well enough. When I get around to making this, I'll try and remember to build a bigger escape vent so that the DC doesn't generate too much pressure inside the enclosure. At the moment with my current enclosure, the vent is only about 2.5x bigger than the 6" inlet. It takes some force to close the doors when the DC is running, which I am sure is a huge part of the problem.

**ian** · 4th February 2017, 05:53 PM

Originally Posted by Kuffy

Thanks guys, I think the D shape rubber will work well enough. When I get around to making this, I'll try and remember to build a bigger escape vent so that the DC doesn't generate too much pressure inside the enclosure. At the moment with my current enclosure, the vent is only about 2.5x bigger than the 6" inlet. It takes some force to close the doors when the DC is running, which I am sure is a huge part of the problem.

this might be 95% of the problem. Perhaps address the vent issue before attacking the door modification?

**bryn23** · 4th February 2017, 06:51 PM

With the Escape Vent, you might want to enlarge it to reduce the pressure, if you can fit some 16mm trims around the doors with a rubber trim, then in theory it'll compress during DC use and take the pressure of the rubber trim, when not in use to keep the rubber trim flexible.

I'm not sure of the product, we used it on our spray booth, and installed up against the vent fan to catch the two pack, its like a nylon floor mat. it reduced the noise coming out of the fan and reduced the crap coming out of the vent and it kept the next door neighbours happy.

The product is Dust Extraction Filter Sponge, similar to the product below.

2X Carbon Filters for FUME SMOKE ABSORBER EXTRACTOR FAN SOLDERING STATION Iron

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