Under-table extraction for Sawstop TS

**cambrook** · 10th August 2015, 09:29 PM

I've spent quite a bit of time lately reading through this forum, and have learnt a lot about what is required to get proper air flow and extraction. I'm currently using a Jet DC-1200 with pleated filter, but that will be replaced with a much bigger blower on a cyclone that is vented outside, and I will upgrade to 6" ducting.

In preparation for that I want to upgrade the dust ports on my Sawstop tablesaw. It's the Professional model which has an internal plastic shroud. I estimate that it chokes down to about the area of a 3" hose, so while it might sound good to have a shroud internally connected to a 4" port, the reality is much less useful. As you can see in the photos it is quite restricted near the bottom in order to clear the mechanism and the side of the cabinet.

IMG_2958.JPG IMG_2957.JPG IMG_2953.JPG IMG_2956.JPG

My first thought was to modify the shroud, grafting on a new lower section that had a larger cross-section, but I now plan to remove it and put a 6" port with bell-mouth flare at the bottom rear of the cabinet. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/improving-machine-cabinet-dust-ports-187936

My question for the forum is where to allow the air to enter the cabinet? There is an access panel (200 x 185mm) at the top rear corner of the RHS, and in the photo you can see a similar sized panel at the rear of the cabinet. That panel is inline with the blade and above the dust port.

IMG_2995.JPG

The motor cover is moulded plastic so would be very easy to put holes in it - or a louvre panel.

IMG_2997.JPG

Which side of the cabinet is better to draw the air in from?

Thanks in advance for your help,

Cam

**Prle77** · 11th August 2015, 08:04 PM

I would go with the small access panel.. you can easy reduce the hole and it will be less damaging to the original parts..
Motor cover side can be modified but you have to make a hole in it...
Not really fan of permanent mods to anything... but that's only me..

**LuckyDuck** · 14th August 2015, 04:41 PM

From what I remember BobL saying when I did my modification, the venting should be at least twice as large as the 6" duct you plan on installing, and you should take into account the reduction in flow from louvres or smaller holes.

I located my vent up high on the opposite side of the 6" duct which makes for a nice cross breeze in the cabinet. The big stuff sits in the bottom of my cabinet, but the 6" duct, with little restriction, works ever so much better than the previous 4" duct without vent.

Hope this helps.

**cambrook** · 14th August 2015, 11:26 PM

Thanks LD and P77,

I read BobL's post suggesting the need for twice the duct area, which for a 6" duct means inlet area of 56.5" sq - which BTW is 8 x 3" holes or 18 x 2" holes!

LD your Delta saw has the outlet on the RHS of the saw (under the motor), and you installed the louvre inlet on the LHS.
On my Sawstop the duct is low at the rear, so I need to decide where to put the inlet. I'd prefer to avoid cutting into the front of the cabinet, and the access panel on the RHS is not ideal as it's at the rear of the cabinet; so I'm thinking that I'll put the inlet in the top of the front section of the moulded plastic door on the LHS. The fan in the end of the motor blows air toward the centre of the cabinet, so the air drawn in the new inlet will be heading in the same direction.

Thanks for your posts!

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