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Thread: My Clear vue installation
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23rd September 2013, 04:51 PM #91
At what point do you have to drop down to the smaller pipe Bob? If I was to make a 8-9" rectangular main duct across the shop roof is there any advantage, or for that matter disadvantage to making the drops 8-9" rectangular and then reducing down to 6" round pvc/flex for the final run into the machine?
Try to look unimportant, they may be low on ammo.
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23rd September 2013, 05:06 PM #92.
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There is no advantage because the reduction to 6" limits the flow to ~1250 cfm.
Disadvantage wise,
- a 6" flow limit of ~1250 cfm in a 8" square duct has an air speed ~2800 FPM. As this is below the 4000 fpm required to hold some sawdust in suspension so you might find a drop down of that size has problems.
- the blast gate for each of the drop downs should be as close as possible and preferably immediately prior to the main duct. If you make your own rectangular blast gates, no probs, otherwise I would just stay with the 6" for the drop downs.
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23rd September 2013, 05:25 PM #93
OK, see if I am following this, because the drop down, which is 8" reduces down to 6" near the machine, this is a bottleneck that reduces the CFM in the 8"...correct?
Edit, I was thinking that regardless of where the 6" ducting is it would bottle neck the 8", but that is why you have two ports open on the max, yesTry to look unimportant, they may be low on ammo.
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23rd September 2013, 08:46 PM #94.
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23rd September 2013, 11:13 PM #95Try to look unimportant, they may be low on ammo.
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23rd September 2013, 11:19 PM #96.
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24th September 2013, 12:07 AM #97... and this too shall pass away ...
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Gents,
My understanding is that Ric will leave a 6 inch port open to scrub the air. If that is the case should he not run 8 inch from the cyclone to just past the point where is permanently open port is located at which point it would drop down to 6 inch? That way the velocity past the open port will remain above 4,000 fpm in a 6 inch duct when he is running a machine in that area.
Or have I missed something?
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24th September 2013, 10:09 AM #98.
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24th September 2013, 11:39 AM #99GOLD MEMBER
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24th September 2013, 01:53 PM #100
Just thinking put aloud really and weighing up the options. i think the best way is just a simple PVC setup, 8" main down the guts of the shed with 6" drops all with PVC fittings. I just need to find a place in Adelaide that doesn't make the PVC from Gold, price wise anyway.
Didn't think I was going to make it to the forums today, got the blue screen of death when I started up the PC, tried a couple of more times, got a couple of hung starts then I got on long enough to do a backup and system image copy...phew. I have been slack and haven't done a back up in a while.Try to look unimportant, they may be low on ammo.
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24th September 2013, 02:43 PM #101... and this too shall pass away ...
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Total Eden
Ric,
Got all of my pipes and fittings from Total Eden ... don't know if you have a local store. They were MUCH cheaper than plumbing supplies etc ... from memory, about 40% cheaper, and the pipe comes from the same factories.
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1st October 2013, 12:08 PM #102Senior Member
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Hey Russell, I've been looking back over this thread at your pipe work as I prepare to make some custom bends for my ducting. It looks like you switched from the technique of cutting wedges from the pipe and bending - to cutting all the way through and glueing the angled ring segments back together?
What's your latest opinion on best way to go for this? Is the liquid nails holding up so far?
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1st October 2013, 01:49 PM #103
AM
Oddy
Is the liquid nails(LN) holding,,,, yes I used hot glue in 4 spots just to hold it till the lay out was right then LN it. The hot glue is easily cut and re done if needed.
Yes I now cut all the way through it was easy in the long run. I made a jig up an run the pipe though the band saw rotating the 180 with every cut.
For a center of pipe radius of 170 app. The outside was 50mm and the inside was 25mm.
I made some bigger radius where a gentler curve would fit.
Check out the double joint pic I needed this in one spot so thing lined up better, that a 120 going into a 150mm 45 degree joint leg with horizontal angle also added.
Now go and buy one like that.
Rvapourforge.com
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1st October 2013, 02:10 PM #104Banned
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Ahh
Ahh - the ol Wigwam for a gooses bridle joint, (As Maxwell Smart was wont to say)
Yes - tough to find those on the shelf at the hardware shop these days!
Inspirational work there!.
Hot glue & liquid nails - you say! (Mental note to self - remember this when ducting shed!).
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1st October 2013, 02:56 PM #105
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