Thread: Clear Vue Owners - Impeller Mounting

The gap has to be there when the taperlock and impeller are installed as shown in the videos on this page Assembly Instructions - Clear Vue Cyclones

It has been too many years since I have assembled one but is should not be too hard to align the key under the set screw. In fact it is debatable whether the key is even needed if you are using a VFD as the soft start does not apply the instant torque to the motor and impeller but I would recommend still fitting it. The impeller position along the shaft is not critical providing the impeller does not hit anything and the taper lock is fully engaged with the motor shaft.

Thanks for the reply.

I had viewed those videos before I started but they don't actually show whether the taperlock makes contact with the impeller, once the 3 bolts are fastened. My fear is tightening the bolts too much (while trying to get contact between the taperlock and impeller) and shearing them. This is the taperlock fastened:
Gap between taperlock and impeller-2.jpg

Regarding the alignment of the key, I can easily do that (by moving the taperlock further down the motor shaft - see the last pic of my first post) but it contradicts the manual and the instruction videos. If no key was used (hypothetical), the setscrew would be grabbing onto the motor shaft and only slightly as the setscrew is fairly short.
If the taperlock does not need to be flush with top of the motor shaft, then I'll position it lower down so that the setscrew can make contact with the key.

It seems the the US motor shafts have the keyseat going through to the top of the shaft. The Aus motor shafts end just before the top of the shaft.
Aussie shaft design with replacement key - 2.jpg USA Shaft Key Design-2.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdoHR4HxRpw&t=180s

This jogs the memory, the taper lock has a torque specification of 5 foot pounds and there should be a torque specification supplied with the taper lock and I would go by that instruction, it is most important that they be tightened equally. I am sure there are Cyclones out there which have been tightened without measuring the torque and each to his own if you choose to do that. You will note that in the linked video the TL is not flush with the end of the shaft. It would not be rocket science to open the end of the motor shaft to allow the key to be inserted as the US motor is done, the closed end just ensures the key can't fall out. I am not recommending that by any means just putting it forth as an observation.

I honestly can't remember my installation tbh sorry. However I was hoping you could do me a favour and measure the diameter of your impeller housing? Either from the outside of the mdf ring or inner perspex. I'm curious if the Max housing is larger than the Cv1800.

Cheers, Dom

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdoHR4HxRpw&t=180s

I had watched that video before purchasing, but given the age of it, I thought that things may have changed since then. I.e. the MDF pieces are now painted blue and the mounting plate is specified other way around.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

This jogs the memory, the taper lock has a torque specification of 5 foot pounds and there should be a torque specification supplied with the taper lock and I would go by that instruction, it is most important that they be tightened equally.

This still is the case (2.27kg/f for the metric players) but it unfortunately doesn't address the question of the gap.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

It would not be rocket science to open the end of the motor shaft to allow the key to be inserted as the US motor is done, the closed end just ensures the key can't fall out. I am not recommending that by any means just putting it forth as an observation.

Agreed, but I won't be taking any cutting implement to a brand new motor shaft...

Originally Posted by DomAU

I honestly can't remember my installation tbh sorry. However I was hoping you could do me a favour and measure the diameter of your impeller housing? Either from the outside of the mdf ring or inner perspex. I'm curious if the Max housing is larger than the Cv1800.

Cheers, Dom

No Worries, will do.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdoHR4HxRpw&t=180s

This jogs the memory, the taper lock has a torque specification of 5 foot pounds and there should be a torque specification supplied with the taper lock and I would go by that instruction, it is most important that they be tightened equally. I am sure there are Cyclones out there which have been tightened without measuring the torque and each to his own if you choose to do that..

I installed my taper lock without measuring torque because I didn't have access to any measuring equipment. Just tried to apply the same pressure on each bolt.

It has been installed for six years now without any problems and runs very smoothly so it may not be critical that the torque specs be accurately adhered to.

I doubt many do measure it TTTT but recommending not to could be a dangerous path to go down.

Once torqued the taperlock should have a gap between itself and the impeller. The reason being that differences in manufacturing tolerances are taken up by how far in and out the taper ends up. A small shaft, small taper and big taper hole would have a small gap. A big shaft, big taper and small taper hole would have a big gap. Both scenarios still allowing the assembly to grip properly. If the taper is bottomed you have no way of knowing if it is tightened correctly. Personally when I put taperlock type pulleys on I put them as far on to the shaft as possible as long as it doesn't compromise clearances or alignment.

Pete

I think I established in post 2 that the gap needs to be there because if it isn't the TL can't be pushed into the impeller boss to compress it onto the shaft. It is the action of the TL being pushed into the tapered impeller which causes the compression to take place.

Chris I agree with you but added the reason why.

Pete

Originally Posted by DomAU

....... However I was hoping you could do me a favour and measure the diameter of your impeller housing? Either from the outside of the mdf ring or inner perspex. I'm curious if the Max housing is larger than the Cv1800.

Cheers, Dom

I pulled mine out of the box to measure it. Because there is a bit if a snail shape to it there is no constant diameter. Through the centre, parallel to the outlet, it measures 22 1/4" outside of the MDF ring. Take an inch off each side for the polycarbonate and edge distance and you have 20 1/4" inside the polycarbonate. 565.15mm and 514.35mm if that's easier. Is the CV 1800 the same?

Pete

Originally Posted by QC Inspector

Once torqued the taperlock should have a gap between itself and the impeller. The reason being that differences in manufacturing tolerances are taken up by how far in and out the taper ends up. A small shaft, small taper and big taper hole would have a small gap. A big shaft, big taper and small taper hole would have a big gap. Both scenarios still allowing the assembly to grip properly. If the taper is bottomed you have no way of knowing if it is tightened correctly. Personally when I put taperlock type pulleys on I put them as far on to the shaft as possible as long as it doesn't compromise clearances or alignment.

Pete

Perfect, thank you Pete!

As Pete mentioned, the shape is spiral so the measurements will be different depending on where it is measured.

Here are some pics:
Housing - Inner Perspex.jpg Housing - Measurement 1 - 575mm.jpg Housing - Measurement 2 - 555mm.jpg Housing Height.jpg Outlet- 178mm.jpg