Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 35
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    Yay! Prusia i3 mk3... im literally about to pull the trigger to buy one.

    What a FANTASTIC machine it is.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Yay! Prusia i3 mk3... im literally about to pull the trigger to buy one.

    What a FANTASTIC machine it is.
    Its a pretty decent machine. The quality of the prints blows me away. Not without its problems though. The biggest issue I have is the bed is not flat, and I think that it has warped as a result of heating/cooling. I am going to measure the actual deformation when I get back home (in Tas at the moment) and post to the prusa forum. Of course you can work around that issue, its just less than ideal. There is also a couple of strange software bugs that I cant quite pin down, but a power down/up fixes that and its always obvious before the first layer is down.

    Outside of that, I cant fault it yet. I have done a fair few prints in both ABS and PLA and it works a treat.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    That's not the best shape for fine dust extraction from a BS.
    This is more like what is needed.- the hoods haves to allow as much air as possible to flow into it otherwise it will not capture all the fine dust

    Attachment 441882
    Question for you Bob, Are they 4" lines going to the bandsaw? I think I can see reducers in the backround.

    I am designing new ports for the Bandsaw now. Currently printing a prototype part for underneath for a test fit. Still going to need a lot of massaging yet.

    Here is the first iteration of the new port for the lower section. It was 5", new design is 4" based off the above pic. I prefer 4" as its easier to get hose, and all going well most dust and chips should be picked up before it gets to the bottom anyway.

    N4400 dust port.png

    Next step is something for the top of the table.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,166

    Default

    everyone says, go big, stay big. If you can do 5", do it. If you can do 6", do it.
    http://www.ductsystems.com.au/ has options...

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by poundy View Post
    everyone says, go big, stay big. If you can do 5", do it. If you can do 6", do it.
    http://www.ductsystems.com.au/ has options...
    Whoa, those parts are expensive!! At those prices, I only have to print about 5 parts and the printer has paid for itself!!

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Birkdale
    Age
    51
    Posts
    279

    Default

    G'day Pearo,
    Just wondering what is the capacity of the printer you have. L x W x H?
    I may take you up on your generous offer.
    Cheers,
    Chris

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by poundy View Post
    everyone says, go big, stay big. If you can do 5", do it. If you can do 6", do it.
    http://www.ductsystems.com.au/ has options...
    Unless you are in an industrial situation I cannot understand why anyone would use galvanised ducting for Wood dust.
    $55 for a 90º 150mm galv bend

    Whoa, those parts are expensive!! At those prices, I only have to print about 5 parts and the printer has paid for itself!!
    I am all for 3D printing (especially of fittings that are not available) but for comparison purposes you should really be comparing with the cost of PVC fittings.

    $17 for a 90º 150 mm large radius DWV fitting see DWV FITTINGS - DWV PLAIN BEND - Pipe Online - Retic Fittings , Plumbing Fittings, Reticulation Supplies supplied Australia wide
    This would need a work envelope of bout ~280 x 280 x 160 mm.
    or
    $12 for a 90º 150 mm small radius Stormwater fitting see STORMWATER FITTINGS - STORMWATER BENDS - Pipe Online - Retic Fittings , Plumbing Fittings, Reticulation Supplies supplied Australia wide
    This would need a 240 x 240 x 160 mm envelope

    I realise not everyone has access to these prices but aside from work envelope issue my guess is that these prices will be close to the 3D filament needed to make these fittings as strong as the originals. The cost of filament would be cheaper than buying the fitting from Bunnings or if shipping is factored into the above prices.

    It should be possible to used shorter connects to fit the small radius 90º bend within your 250 x 210 x 210 envelope. The only way to really see if this is workable is to print some and see if they work.

    The cost of the pieces of PVC pipe I use to make Bell Mouth hoods is around 50c for the 100 mm hood (uses DWV pipe), and $1.20 for the 150mm hood (uses stormwater pipe), and they take about 10 minutes each to make. The 150 hood needs a 225 x 225 x ~140 mm work envelope and there is no way to make this any smaller.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cjbfisher View Post
    G'day Pearo,
    Just wondering what is the capacity of the printer you have. L x W x H?
    I may take you up on your generous offer.
    Cheers,
    Chris
    210 L x 210 W x 250 H

    I am currently designing a whole bunch of different duct parts. A lot is just practice with fusion 360, but some will get used.

    I cant seem to link to a directory in Fusion 360, but I can post links like this: https://a360.co/2QWjh5b which will show the current revision and you can take a look at the part in 3d. If there is enough interested (and mods are happy), I will start a new thread and post links to the parts I am designing.

    Once printed and tested, I will post everything to thingiverse as well.

    I am printing with PLA for prototypes, the plan to use ABS for the final parts. I buy the filament from here: https://www.kingdom3d.com.au/collect...-75mm-filament (QLD based company) as its about the cheapest I can find. The stuff seems to work pretty good based on my limited experience..

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post

    I am all for 3D printing (especially of fittings that are not available) but for comparison purposes you should really be comparing with the cost of PVC fittings.

    $17 for a 90º 150 mm large radius DWV fitting see DWV FITTINGS - DWV PLAIN BEND - Pipe Online - Retic Fittings , Plumbing Fittings, Reticulation Supplies supplied Australia wide
    This would need a work envelope of bout ~280 x 280 x 160 mm.
    or
    $12 for a 90º 150 mm small radius Stormwater fitting see STORMWATER FITTINGS - STORMWATER BENDS - Pipe Online - Retic Fittings , Plumbing Fittings, Reticulation Supplies supplied Australia wide
    This would need a 240 x 240 x 160 mm envelope

    I realise not everyone has access to these prices but aside from work envelope issue my guess is that these prices will be close to the 3D filament needed to make these fittings as strong as the originals. The cost of filament would be cheaper than buying the fitting from Bunnings or if shipping is factored into the above prices.

    It should be possible to used shorter connects to fit the small radius 90º bend within your 250 x 210 x 210 envelope. The only way to really see if this is workable is to print some and see if they work.

    The cost of the pieces of PVC pipe I use to make Bell Mouth hoods is around 50c for the 100 mm hood (uses DWV pipe), and $1.20 for the 150mm hood (uses stormwater pipe), and they take about 10 minutes each to make. The 150 hood needs a 225 x 225 x ~140 mm work envelope and there is no way to make this any smaller.

    Unless you have access to a 3d printer, it's certainly not worth buying one just for the purpose of making ducting. However what I have realised is that if you have one, and you exclude the cost of the printer itself, then the parts are actually quite cheap if you are only doing the odd one or 2. Given most parts I had played with so far take upward of 8 hours to print, its just not feasible to fit out one's whole shed with 3d printed parts.

    At this stage, there is a few things working in my favour, a) its just helping me learn Fusion 360 which I need to do anyway. b) the 3D printer was not purchased for printing duct parts, but rather prototypes for work. c) my shed is already set up, I am just fine tuning and improving and d) the parts I am designing are not readily available in PVC and designing them in cad and printing is relatively straightforward!

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Just for interest, here is some of the stuff I have done so far, mainly for practice. Other that the dust chute (incomplete) only the aforementioned adapter has been printed. (Let me know if the links dont work, I am still new to all of this)

    4" Dust Port https://a360.co/2QWjh5b
    6" Bellmouth https://a360.co/2N40Hoo
    6" Bend (this one actually has a use in my shed) https://a360.co/2OfveEo
    6" to 5" adapter https://a360.co/2R0UKvA
    6" to 4" Low Angle Y https://a360.co/2xDja6n
    N4400 Under Table Dust Chute (incomplete) https://a360.co/2OSoCZI
    6" Non Reducing Y https://a360.co/2xCSOBp
    6" to 4" Reducing Y https://a360.co/2xCSOBp

    The standard parts like the Y's are probably not worth printing given they are fairly accessible and given it would take a good 9-10 hours to print.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

    Default

    Good work on the designs.

    A couple suggestions, for optimised performance the 4"/100 mm BMH should be 150 mm wide and the 6"/150 mm should be 225 mm wide, I got something like 134 mm and 300 mm from the drawings on your links. Maybe I'm using the software incorrectly?

    BTW the most efficient under table dust chutes are bell mouth hoods or at least bell mouth hood shaped.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Good work on the designs.

    A couple suggestions, for optimised performance the 4"/100 mm BMH should be 150 mm wide and the 6"/150 mm should be 225 mm wide, I got something like 134 mm and 300 mm from the drawings on your links. Maybe I'm using the software incorrectly?
    The 6" Bellmouth is actually 275mm, with a 57mm radius. It was supposed to be 225mm, I thought I had copied what you posted earlier in this thread! Must have typed the number in wrong. Its fixed now. Not sure if there is an optimal radius, but its currently at 32.5mm which of course marries up with the difference between the pipe diameter and the outer diameter of the bell. All going well, the changes should be reflected in that link.

    The 4" BMH is for the bandsaw, and short of hacking holes into (which is not off the cards BTW) I was restricted to 134mm outer diameter.


    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    BTW the most efficient under table dust chutes are bell mouth hoods or at least bell mouth hood shaped.
    I hear on that one. The problem with the Hammer is the space is fairly restricted under there. I am also trying to get as much of the bigger chips collected as well and I am not sure that if I place a BM far enough back it wont get the larger stuff.

    BTW, not sure if you missed my earlier question about the bandsaw photo you posted, but were they 4" ports?

    I am running a 6" main which needs to be split 3 ways, top, under table and bottom. I was planning 4" to the undertable and bottom. Bill pentz' site suggests 3.5" to the top (but his drawings only have one 5" at the bottom), so I was hoping to also run a 4" at the top. All back to a CV1800

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,757

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pearo View Post
    The 6" Bellmouth is actually 275mm, with a 57mm radius. It was supposed to be 225mm, I thought I had copied what you posted earlier in this thread! Must have typed the number in wrong. Its fixed now. Not sure if there is an optimal radius, but its currently at 32.5mm which of course marries up with the difference between the pipe diameter and the outer diameter of the bell. All going well, the changes should be reflected in that link.
    The 4" BMH is for the bandsaw, and short of hacking holes into (which is not off the cards BTW) I was restricted to 134mm outer diameter.[/QUOTE]
    Fair enough - any rounding over is better than none.

    BTW, not sure if you missed my earlier question about the bandsaw photo you posted, but were they 4" ports?
    yep.

    [/QUOTE]I am running a 6" main which needs to be split 3 ways, top, under table and bottom. I was planning 4" to the undertable and bottom. Bill pentz' site suggests 3.5" to the top (but his drawings only have one 5" at the bottom), so I was hoping to also run a 4" at the top. All back to a CV1800[/QUOTE]
    I don't think it matters that much.

    The one thing I found makes a difference on a BS in terms of dust collection is the direction of the throat plate slot - contrary to what I see on a lot of BS is it should be on the side of the blade opposite the teeth

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,166

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by poundy View Post
    http://www.ductsystems.com.au/ has options...
    Thought I should clarify - the biggest hassle I think in a DC is the last mile - the flexi hose. The hard parts are the easy parts - the DWV or stormwater pipes are relatively easy to come by. These guys appear to have a range of flexi for any size you want, which is the reason I bookmarked them, as I really couldn't find a lot of options readily available other than 100mm

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Marsfield
    Age
    46
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I am all for 3D printing (especially of fittings that are not available) but for comparison purposes you should really be comparing with the cost of PVC fittings.

    I realise not everyone has access to these prices but aside from work envelope issue my guess is that these prices will be close to the 3D filament needed to make these fittings as strong as the originals. The cost of filament would be cheaper than buying the fitting from Bunnings or if shipping is factored into the above prices.
    Dumb questions - for 3D printed parts would the difference in inner surface smoothness vs PVC pipe make any great difference? Or for short enough lengths would it not really matter much. I guess it would still be better than flexy pipe. Would it make sense to try to orient the thread longitudinal to the airflow rather than concentrically around it (assuming that it even possible with the printer)?

    Iain

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. A.C.T. Galvanized 200mm to 2x 150mm dust extractor adapter
    By Ilya in forum WOODWORK - Tools & Machinery
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 17th July 2017, 11:23 PM
  2. Hitachi Dust Collection Adapter (P/N 997466/339380) to suit TR-12/M12/M8
    By krappy in forum WOODWORK - Tools & Machinery
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 28th April 2017, 10:54 PM
  3. the worlds most expensive timber pen blanks
    By mkypenturner in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNING
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 25th May 2013, 06:05 PM
  4. Worlds Most Expensive Pencil Sharpener
    By Big Shed in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNING
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 19th April 2008, 10:35 AM
  5. TR12 Dust Collector Adapter
    By Glen Bridger in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12th May 2007, 09:27 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •