Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 227
-
27th May 2012, 10:56 PM #16
Looks great Steve. Don't worry about the shaky cuts on the bandsaw thats what the sander is for.
As far as the ebonizing I have some questions maybe you or Jim could answer. How long did you leave the steel wool in the vinegar before it dissolved? I have read on the web that most of the steel wool you buy is coated with an oil so it won't rust and this has to be washed off. So do I just use a dish detergent and water to wash it off? I also read that the course stuff works better.
I have had two medium size pieces of steel wool in vinegar for over 48 hours and they haven't dissolved yet.
The ebonizing of the chassis is going to look really cool.
Bret
-
27th May 2012 10:56 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
27th May 2012, 11:19 PM #17
Edit: You're right - after a little sanding the rails good pretty good. Just a little more to do.
That was my mistake. Jim quickly corrected me. Ignore what you read on the web. I read the same thing and waited 3 days without any vinegar discolouration or steel wool dissolving. It doesn't have to. When I did take the steel wool out, it was definitely a little mushy in the middle, but otherwise normal. I'd say you're good to go.
On the topic of oil, I read that too, but simply forgot to wash the oil off and still got great results.
I read that fine steel wool is better. Who knows, but logic tells me that finer is better, having more surface area to react with the vinegar.
To help accelerate the reaction, I also lifted the steel wool clear of the vinegar now and then to drain and replenish the air supply. That should speed oxidisation.
As far as soaking time goes, a few hours makes many timbers fairly black, but others can do with overnight. In and out a few times is the go. My most successful have been Jarrah and Blackbutt, with poor results on New Guinea Rosewood. Got Celery Top, Balsa, (anything within reach), and Queensland Maple soaking at the moment. The QLD Maple doesn't do too well, it seems.
Apparently Oak goes nice and dark.
Here's some Blackbutt and Jarrah, ebonised but no poly yet. The finish really brings out the black.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
27th May 2012, 11:29 PM #18
Now am I glad that I was able to pick this up early in the work in progress. Watching this one, no matter how long you take.
-
27th May 2012, 11:34 PM #19
-
30th May 2012, 09:26 PM #20
I haven't done much. I'm taking a few days off to get the workshop organised properly, new bandsaw table here and fitted and a new workbench. The dust extractor finally arrived today, too, so I need to set it up.
Meantime, I've been having a bit of a play with wheel design, the hard bit. So far, I'm using the method from the plans.
I think I'm getting somewhere. Made a couple of practice rims and the beginnings of 2 hubs last night. Still need cleaning up, but they're almost usable. The hub pieces haven't been shaped for the spoke ends yet. They're just cut out so far. I'm dying to try spoking one.
Also discovered today that Woolworths toothpicks are even thinner than skewers - 2mm vs 2.4-2.6mm. Should make much nicer spokes and theyll be easier to squeeze in.
I'm making the hubs and rims out of Camphor Laurel, because it's a reasonable match for the colour of the bamboo spokes. My A Model photo collection tells me that they always had rim, spokes and hub painted in the same colour, usually but not always the body colour.
The photo collection will help heaps, giving me lesser details like the dash panel. Can't copy the original spoke pattern, though - 30 spokes in an odd pattern. 20 spokes are in a rear row and crossed, then there are 10 in a front row, not crossed. Pretty hard in a 12:1 wooden model.
I'll update when I get a little more done. Not too far away from a rolling chassis, (I hope).
Edit: Those rims still need sanding down to 1/8" thick walls. I'm making a jig for that.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
30th May 2012, 10:02 PM #21
Ebonising
G'day Bret,
Hermit has got the ebonising down to a tee, I use 0000 steel wool & have never washed it prior to use. One thing to remember is when the part's dry after being in the solution they will be a grey to dark grey colour depending on the timber being used. they will not go to a true black or blacker until sprayed with polyurethane. I hope this help's with your ebonising. Regard's Jim
-
30th May 2012, 10:10 PM #22
I'm actually experimenting with a variation on the method - first producing iron oxide, rust, as a black powder, then dissolving it in vinegar. It should make a stronger mix. Easy to store the powder, too.
I'll post results of my ebonising trials with pics of the various timbers pretty soon.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
2nd June 2012, 03:32 AM #23
Although I'm still busy re-organising the workshop, making a new bench etc, I'm doing a little of this indoors each night.
I jumped ahead for now to work on the wheels with _fly_.
I'm slowly getting things set up for wheel mass production, to make the six wheels needed for this car. (Two bloody spares.)
For now, I'm just making the two practice wheels.
The rough hub and rim bits: -
Attachment 210569
Rim Inside Sanding Jig: -
l. Rim Inside Jig.JPG
Rim Outside Sanding Jig: -
m. Rim Outside Jig.JPG
For gluing the 3-piece hub together, I use this setup. The main wood block has a hole drilled in it to suit the dowel. I start out with a piece of (waxed) dowel in the centre while gluing and clamping with the 'Y' clamp, then pull the dowel out to ensure it isn't glued where it isn't wanted. Works well: -
Hub Gluing Jig - with dowel: -
Attachment 210574
Hub Gluing Jig - dowel removed: -
Attachment 210575
16-Spoke Layout Template - 47mm OD: -
Attachment 210580
2mm Spoke Hole Drilling. I drilled a 1mm pilot hole, then followed up with the 2mm (toothpick-sized) hole: -
Attachment 210579
Spoke Hole Alignment Check: -
Attachment 210581
I still need to fine sand the inside of the rim. Outside doesn't matter.
I'll report in again when I get a little more done.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
2nd June 2012, 04:54 AM #24
A Little More
Couldn't help myself. I can sleep any night.
Drilled and a test spoke fitting: -
Attachment 210582... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
2nd June 2012, 08:08 AM #25
Steve,
Quick question. How are indexing the wheel for drilling with the center cutout. Love you sanding jigs by the way
Bret
-
2nd June 2012, 10:12 AM #26
-
2nd June 2012, 01:04 PM #27
Indexing? What's that?? I'm guessing!
In reality, once the hole positions have been marked and the rim has been placed between the blocks, it's easy to use the hole markings either side of the current one to index. When both marks, (arrowed in pic), are equidistant above the blocks, we're ready to clamp.
Then I use a modelling pin to centre-punch before drilling. Pretty easy.
I found that if I enlarge the centre-punch hole with dividers, I can do away with the 1mm pilot hole and just drill 2mm without wandering, too.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
2nd June 2012, 01:30 PM #28
That's a very clever way of doing it Steve. So u just marked it using your template out. Your wheel looks really good. I will have to experiment with this
Bret
-
2nd June 2012, 01:45 PM #29
Yep. I lay the rim on the layout drawing and transfer the spoke positions across, then into the jig for drilling.
I made the circle on the layout drawing a little bigger than the rim OD, so the line can be seen.
Attachment 210641
Simple but effective. I'll make the spoke gluing jig tonight and then assemble the one I've drilled. I haven't even thought about tyres yet. I'm working inside-out.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
-
2nd June 2012, 02:24 PM #30
Hi Steve,
What wood have you used for your rims?
I did another this morning and my 2mm bit will wander even with an awl spiked first. I'm using tas oak. I've got 2 spare wheels done. Not the greatest but will do.
Similar Threads
-
Toys for Big Boys - 1936 Ford Roadster
By BigDBigD in forum SCALE MODELLINGReplies: 8Last Post: 16th May 2012, 05:06 AM -
Model A Roadster
By elderly in forum SCALE MODELLINGReplies: 73Last Post: 25th February 2011, 12:02 PM -
Ford Model T
By nine fingers in forum TOY MAKINGReplies: 35Last Post: 5th January 2011, 09:55 PM -
1930 model A
By barg2757 in forum MOTOR VEHICLESReplies: 0Last Post: 17th December 2008, 09:48 PM -
1930 Model "A" Ford tourer
By powderpost in forum SCALE MODELLINGReplies: 8Last Post: 8th December 2008, 02:57 PM