Thread: 1930 Ford Model A Roadster - Slow WIP

Originally Posted by _fly_

May want to be careful with that and do one tyre. We can drill with the hole saw the right size for the tyres. The rims we had to sand down from a larger diameter.
I sanded my rims down slowly until I had a push fit into the tyres.
Your rims are more likely to be closer to dimension than mine so hopefully they will fit nicely.

No, I don't need a tyre yet. My holesaws are perfect for the rim and hubs and since they're smaller and fiddlier, it made more sense to me to use the holesaws for them, then worry about the tyres, since they're bigger and easier to shape by hand.
My plan is to cut the inside of the tyres with either an adjustable circle cutter or holesaw, so it's circular, then, after roughing out the outside with a similar sanding jig to the one for the rims, guided by the circular inside, I can take the outside down to spec. Then, in a similar manner, guided by the now circular outside, I can sand the inside to spec. No problems. They will fit nicely.

My rims and hubs are Camphor Laurel, to sort of match the colour of the spokes. Pretty soft for a hardwood and easy to shape. Smells good while you're working it, too, and keeps insects away for a bonus. Must be working, I can't see any insects around. (Using that logic, it keeps tigers etc away too, I can't see any of them either.)

I just got the spoking jig finished.
Looks like it'll work OK, though I might add a pair of clamps to hold the rim down.
The centre dowel is waxed to aid in removal.

As you can see, I made it adjustable. For thicker hubs, extra shims can be put on the front of the clamps, to hold the rim higher. The Gatto plans call for a 15mm wide hub and 10mm wide rim with 2.4mm spokes, so the standard clamp is 2.45mm, (2.5mm), thick to true the rim on the hub.

The dab of CA glue at the rear of each clamp, near the slot, is an attempt to strengthen the wood to avoid splitting.
I have to take care not to overtighten the screws, although once set for a rim size, the clamps don't need to be moved..

The Jig, Empty: -
Attachment 210754

Side view, with hub & rim centred: -
Attachment 210755

Top View, with hub & rim centred: -
Attachment 210756

Registration is done by eye, from directly above, with the help of the index marks along the lines, then the clamps tightened.

I'll do a dry test run shortly, but I can't glue up just yet. I still need to fine-sand the inside of the rim. This'll be the last chance.

The dry run went well, without a hiccup.

Took all of 10 minutes to spoke up, including cutting the spokes.
I didn't bother to carefully choose the toothpicks for thickness or colour. There's a lot of variety. I'll do that with the real ones - this is just practice. I still need to put a small chamfer on the outer edge of the hub, too.

Edit: Just pulled it out of the jig. Even without glue, it's surprisingly strong. Tested it on a screwdriver blade - runs true and centred. I'm pleased with the way it turned out.

I'll sand then glue this one up tonight, then have a shot at a tyre to fit.

Steve,

Your wheels came out fantastic. Your jigs for making them are just as impressive. I have saved those pics away for when I attempt to make some spoke wheels in the future. And apparently you don't require any sleep either. Are you a robot?

Bret

Originally Posted by bj383ss

Steve,

Your wheels came out fantastic. Your jigs for making them are just as impressive. I have saved those pics away for when I attempt to make some spoke wheels in the future. And apparently you don't require any sleep either. Are you a robot?

Bret

Thank you, Bret. Coming from you, that's praise indeed. You've done stuff on that train that are beyond me.

The key to the jig is the concentric alignment marks that I've cut into the surface. As long as they're accurate, you can't go wrong. I spaced them 5mm apart, (about 1/5"), but even closer would be better.

I figured decent jigs were in order, since I plan to make another of these in the future. 12 wheels total. The real work only needs to be done once that way.

Not a robot, but sometimes I get carriied away and can't stop until I finish something. Last night in particular. (I paid for it - had an early visitor.)

I'm cutting some 10mm Blackbutt stock to make a couple of tyres at the moment. The final test.

If anyone does make a similar jig to mine, I thought of another improvement: -

When making it, don't glue the dowel in. That'll make it easier to remove a finished wheel if it's a bit tight on the dowel. The wheel with dowel can be removed, then the dowel poked out of the hub separately.

My dowel is glued in, so I'll drill 2 x 3mm holes directly under the hub, to press it off with a pair of matchsticks or skewers.

I'm still sorting out bandsaw issues, but found some time to finish the test wheel today. Gave my wheel jigs a good workout. It came up OK. I'm surprised I didn't get glue everywhere. Luck. I glued the inner ends of the spokes with PVA to allow plenty of drying time for adjustment, then after I cut the ends off (with mini electronics side-cutters), put a drop of SupaGlue on each spoke end, to 'wick' in between the spoke and rim. A quick buzz on the Dremel 1/2" drum sander after drying to remove excess glue and spoke-ends. I found that it pays to pick carefully through the toothpicks before starting because a lot are too thick, too thin or out-of-round. I selected and cut the ends off a heap and put them away in a plastic bag.

The hub and rim are Camphor Laurel, spokes are 2mm bamboo toothpicks, tyre is Blackbutt, (ebonised of course). I soaked the tyre for 5 hours in the solution.

I stuck to the plan's tyre profile of 1/4", but I think it needs to be higher, more in keeping with the tall, skinny tyres of the time. I'll complete this model with this size tyres, then see how larger ones would fit under the body for the next one. Only 1mm larger radius, (2mm larger diameter).
The plans also called for 1/8" thick rims, but I shaved it down a little thinner, to about 2.5mm, more in proportion with the rest of the wheel.

Assembled and glued, but no poly yet. I just lightly sanded the tyre with 1200 after ebonising, then burnished it with a tea-towel: -
(I haven't gone too mad getting a high quality finish on this one, since it's only a test run. A bit more fine sanding for the real ones.)

hi hermit them wheels came out really good

Originally Posted by kelrob@blueyond

hi hermit them wheels came out really good

Thanks, Bob.
Slow, but I'm happy with the result overall.
I can do it after all. I wasn't 100 percent confident when I started.

I've got to go back and continue with the chassis now before making the other wheels, but at least now I know how.

Wow Steve, They've come up a treat.....WELL DONE!!!
Cheers, crowie

Originally Posted by crowie

Wow Steve, They've come up a treat.....WELL DONE!!!
Cheers, crowie

G'day crowie. Thanks, but not too soon - still 6 to go, this is only the practice run.
So far so good, though.

Looks real good Steve. If you can make one this good you can make 6 more no sweat. At least its not a prime mover with 10 wheels and a spare. LOL. I really like the ebonzing going to have to give that a go when the time comes.

Keep the pics coming
Bret

Looking good steve,
Did you sand the outside of the tyres by hand or in a jig. They look quite rounded.
Peter

Yeah, Bret, I'm not scared of the wheels any more.

Peter, I rounded the sides of the tyre by hand, with paper on a block and my fingers. I tried hard not to upset the flat surface where the tread should be, to keep the square, 'conventional' tyre look, but made the sides slightly rounded like in real life and tried to make it look like the tyre went under the edge of the rim.
I say forget the plans' 45 degrees and do what looks right.