Thread: 1st Build - '58 Chevy Step-Side Ute

Originally Posted by Hermit

That's looking really good, Geoff.

You must have read my mind, just this morning I was wondering how you were going with it.

Sounds like you're getting the idea, using dowel, bamboo toothpicks and veneer. Bamboo skewers can be quite handy in places, too. They're 2.5mm diameter, slightly thicker than toothpicks which are usually 2mm.

For magnets, when you get that far, rare earth magnets are the ones to look for - much more powerful for their size than conventional ones. If you don't find any at Spotlight, check out Veneer Inlay Australia, Carroll's Woodcraft Supplies or any other box making hardware supplier. They sell them down to 3mm diameter, 2mm deep. I used 3 pairs on the box of my guitar, to make sure the lid doesn't rattle when closed, with a conventional brass catch just for appearance.

Keep up the good work.

Thanks Hermit,

I did buy a few packs of toothpicks and skewers to try as they looked like a handy size. I actually don't like the skewers much because if you're cutting off very small cross-sections, it ends up just falling apart. I switched to toothpicks for the smaller sections and might use the skewers again when I'm looking for a longer length of it.

I have been looking at the rare earth magnets on magnets.com.au that look like they might do the trick, but I might test a few different sizes first to make sure they're not too strong. Hate for my father in law to end up breaking parts of the car while trying to get the lid pieces off!

I do have one more question for the collective knowledge out there though. Since this is my very first build and the only finishing technique I've really used in the past is a spray on estapol (larger pieces of furniture), how do I finish the car in general and more specifically the more detailed sections (like the engine)? I was thinking last night that I might have to invest in a bunch of cotton buds or something and slowly wipe on some sort of finish layer by layer... so what type of finish would people recommend? and any tips on how to apply it properly?

Thanks,

Geoff

Originally Posted by geoffmac

I actually don't like the skewers much because if you're cutting off very small cross-sections, it ends up just falling apart. I switched to toothpicks for the smaller sections and might use the skewers again when I'm looking for a longer length of it.

That's odd. The bamboo skewers I buy, (from Woolworths), are plenty strong - a little stronger than toothpicks. Did you maybe buy wooden ones?

I do have one more question for the collective knowledge out there though. Since this is my very first build and the only finishing technique I've really used in the past is a spray on estapol (larger pieces of furniture), how do I finish the car in general and more specifically the more detailed sections (like the engine)? I was thinking last night that I might have to invest in a bunch of cotton buds or something and slowly wipe on some sort of finish layer by layer... so what type of finish would people recommend? and any tips on how to apply it properly?
Thanks,
Geoff

That's pretty much up to the individual. I personally like using satin MinWax wipe-on polyurethane mostly, but often use wax, MinWax Polycrylic or aerosol spray Estapol. It sometimes pays to put the finish on individual parts before assembly. It's a matter of suiting the finish & method to the job at hand. I use cotton buds for applying wax to small parts, but otherwise use small brushes (Polycrylic) or a cloth for wipe-on poly.
Others will suggest other finishes and methods, I imagine.

Hi Geoff .... I also am a newbie to building scale models. My first piece I just used wax .... I think on small objects as opposed to furniture the varnish can produce an 'artificial' effect. personal opinion.

But Diamond-T, who builds incredible earth-moving machines, uses a single coat of varnish and his pieces look anything but artificial. Perhaps if you ask him he will tell you how he achieves his effect.

cool bananas ... Greg

Originally Posted by Mutawintji

Hi Geoff .... I also am a newbie to building scale models. My first piece I just used wax .... I think on small objects as opposed to furniture the varnish can produce an 'artificial' effect. personal opinion.

But Diamond-T, who builds incredible earth-moving machines, uses a single coat of varnish and his pieces look anything but artificial. Perhaps if you ask him he will tell you how he achieves his effect.

cool bananas ... Greg

Gloss finishes, polyurethane in particular, often have that plasticy artificial look, but satin looks much better in that regard.

Other finishes to consider are shellac and oil. UBeaut sell a pretty good white shellac, and oils like Danish (Scandinavian) oil or Teak oil can look pretty good, too. They harden and leave a semi-gloss silky finish. Then, there's the option of no finish at all.

Originally Posted by Hermit

Gloss finishes, polyurethane in particular, often have that plasticy artificial look, but satin looks much better in that regard.

Other finishes to consider are shellac and oil. UBeaut sell a pretty good white shellac, and oils like Danish (Scandinavian) oil or Teak oil can look pretty good, too. They harden and leave a semi-gloss silky finish. Then, there's the option of no finish at all.

Thanks guys for your comments. I've heard some bad stories from newbies using shellac and how difficult it is to work with and get a good finish with... can anyone comment on that from experience?

I guess I'm looking for something that will bring out the natural beauty of the timbers I've used as well as protect it from general wear and tear and to make it somewhat easy to clean over the years. Oh, and not looking too plasticy not too much to ask? I think I definitely want 'some' finish on it at least to protect it. I might do a bit of research and testing in the Oils, wax and polyurethane areas... I have certainly had to research and learn a bunch of new things in the course of this project. Bring it on!

Originally Posted by geoffmac

Thanks guys for your comments. I've heard some bad stories from newbies using shellac and how difficult it is to work with and get a good finish with... can anyone comment on that from experience?

I guess I'm looking for something that will bring out the natural beauty of the timbers I've used as well as protect it from general wear and tear and to make it somewhat easy to clean over the years. Oh, and not looking too plasticy not too much to ask? I think I definitely want 'some' finish on it at least to protect it. I might do a bit of research and testing in the Oils, wax and polyurethane areas... I have certainly had to research and learn a bunch of new things in the course of this project. Bring it on!

They all have varying advantages/disadvantages.
Shellac isn't that hard to use, unless you go the 'French Polishing' route which is not really suited to scale models. Lasts quite a long time and is low maintenance.
Poly is very long lasting, zero maintenance and easy to clean, but looks plasticy, especially gloss, as mentioned. The aerosols can be very handy, though, on fiddly bits.
Wax is good looking but very high maintenance - needs regular re-application and buffing, a little harder to clean than poly.
(Hardening) oils are similar but with a silkier finish, need a little less maintenance and last longer.

On model cars, my preference is a gloss finish where a real car would be glossy - outer panels etc, satin for other external parts and wax for the interior parts.
Often the parts themselves will limit the types of finish that can be applied.

Beyond this, have a look around at various projects, check out how the finishes look and what finish and methods were used.

Edit: Something I forgot to mention - poly can come in water-based or spirit-based. (Another decision to make. )
Water-based are nice and clean to apply, easy cleanup with water, but will raise the grain of the timber when applied, necessitating a good sanding after the first coat.
Spirit-based are messier to apply, need turps for cleanup but don't raise the grain in the same way.

Originally Posted by Hermit

They all have varying advantages/disadvantages.
Shellac isn't that hard to use, unless you go the 'French Polishing' route which is not really suited to scale models. Lasts quite a long time and is low maintenance.
Poly is very long lasting, zero maintenance and easy to clean, but looks plasticy, especially gloss, as mentioned. The aerosols can be very handy, though, on fiddly bits.
Wax is good looking but very high maintenance - needs regular re-application and buffing, a little harder to clean than poly.
(Hardening) oils are similar but with a silkier finish, need a little less maintenance and last longer.

On model cars, my preference is a gloss finish where a real car would be glossy - outer panels etc, satin for other external parts and wax for the interior parts.
Often the parts themselves will limit the types of finish that can be applied.

Beyond this, have a look around at various projects, check out how the finishes look and what finish and methods were used.

A wealth of knowledge as always! Thanks Hermit!

So I've been pretty busy at work lately so haven't had too much time to work on the Chev, but in response to the question of where I am at with it all, I have taken some photos . This is actually the first time in a while the whole project has been dry fit together like this so I was actually really excited to see how everything looks together.

Still a long way to go including:
Bonnet shaping
Tailgate
Chev inlay on tray cover
Steering wheel
Wheels
Rear view mirrors and door handles
Other parts inside the engine bay like exhaust, battery, radiator etc

I'm also still on the lookout for:
Magnets
Small hinge
Nice figured block to mount everything to.

I've taken photos of the new parts I've finished since the last update as well as the whole project dry fit with covers on and covers off. Enjoy!

Originally Posted by geoffmac

So I've been pretty busy at work lately so haven't had too much time to work on the Chev, but in response to the question of where I am at with it all, I have taken some photos . This is actually the first time in a while the whole project has been dry fit together like this so I was actually really excited to see how everything looks together.

Still a long way to go including:
Bonnet shaping
Tailgate
Chev inlay on tray cover
Steering wheel
Wheels
Rear view mirrors and door handles
Other parts inside the engine bay like exhaust, battery, radiator etc

I'm also still on the lookout for:
Magnets
Small hinge
Nice figured block to mount everything to.

I've taken photos of the new parts I've finished since the last update as well as the whole project dry fit with covers on and covers off. Enjoy!

carbatec have some small ones , I brought some of theirs from our Bairnsdale agent,"Eastcoast saws" they have a range, mine are small and strongCD.

Nice work Geoff, it's really starting to take shape.

For the number plates, have you considered drawing them up in 'Paint' or similar, with a text box for the letters, then printing them out and gluing to timber? That way, you can also choose a font that matches real plates. I made the Roadster plates that way and it worked well.

1928 Number Plate.JPG

I wondered how you made those plates steve

Originally Posted by bobman 58

I wondered how you made those plates steve

Yep, I cheated Bob.

Once they were stuck onto the timber, I gave them a few coats of WOP to seal them. It gave a nice, slightly yellow, aged look, too, which suited the car.
For really clear plates without yellowing, Polycrylic is best. It doesn't have a yellow tint like poly, and dries almost perfectly clear. Also great for keeping the natural colour of white timbers.

You've made great progress Geoff!! Keep it coming!!

Geoff,

Looking great!

I've been stumbling around trying to find my way on the site and think I can now do so......


Cheers,

Jim