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  1. #1
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    Default could i get some advice please

    Since i been building my scale models ,i always been painting them for some reason i can never get them to look like natural wood with different wood .I always have sanding marks or burn marks on the wood i have tried different grit tried everything just can't get it that's why i paint them .I'm using a 1/8 scrolling blade on my band saw to cut the parts it's 93 1/2 long maybe the blade is to fine would anybody be able to help me Thank you

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  3. #2
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    I don't know what others would say but in my experience it all comes down to commitment and patience.
    The only way I know to remove sanding marks is to use progressively finer grade paper.
    You can start with something as coarse as 80 grit and work your way down to 400 or even finer depending on the finish you wont.
    But it all comes down to elbow grease in the end!.

    Burn marks are usually the result of to higher speed or to much pressure being applied.

    And one really good tip, You can cross cut a surface (sand across the grain) with coarse paper to begin with to get your level.
    But as the grade of paper gets finer work more in line with the grain.

    Cheer mate hope some of it helps, but in the end a good quality finish is just hard work!.

    Trev.

  4. #3
    crowie's Avatar
    crowie is online now Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    G'Day Hornpout, I hear your pain...
    If the blade I'm using is starting to blunt that's when I get burn marks...
    I cut a lot of my small parts on the 6" tablesaw part of an old Hegner Mark5 with a fine blade and get a pretty good/smooth finish...
    My 17" bandsaw, even with a fine blase always seems to leave a slight rippling in the cut; I suspect operator error so sanding is required...
    If the timber piece is big enough I hand sand it using the bed of the large sanding machine [no power on]...
    I also use my Bosch Multitool heaps with the Delta sanding attachment using 80grit paper; the fine action of the multitool seems to smooth the timber enough for me...
    All that said, don't be too hard upon yourself, other people never seem to notice my muckup's or repairs in the toys I make and the children love them to bits...
    Keep up your beaut toy/model making sir, Cheers, crowie.

  5. #4
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    thank you so much im' going in the shop and try it

  6. #5
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    Thank you Crowie every bit of advise helps

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    crowie's Avatar
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    Just another one "hornpout"...
    With using mostly recycled timber and imperial plans, I have to resize all the timber for the plan which I do through the thicknesser/planer giving a quite good finish...Cheers, crowie

  8. #7
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    As already stated above sharp tools are a must along with any machine set up correctly, I have at least two or three blades for my machines. Remember the finer tooth blade you use the cleaner the cut also the feed rate should also be slower to allow the saw dust to clear.
    And then onto the sanding as Trev AKA Repliconics has stated start with a coarser grit and work through them do not skip a grit you need to get rid of the scratch marks from the previous grit so by jumping a grit makes even longer a job of it.
    As for the scroll saw blade the same applies as with other machines, you will find that the coarser blades will leave more to be sanded as they can leave a rougher finish by changing to a finer blade will reduce the sanding but will take longer to cut.
    So remember blunt blades = harder to cut and possible burn marks

  9. #8
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    All advice above is good, so I won't comment on those. However, I did not read about one item: The kind of wood. I only use beech wood for my toys since it is hard wood. Softer wood is easier to cut, but is more prone to dents etc.

    Have you looked into a stationary sanding machine like this?: http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_22181.jpg

    Small, not very expensive and saves a lot of time sanding. The hard to reach places are still to be done by hand though!

  10. #9
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    i can really only echo previous comments ... but i just checked some of your other posts and the paint jobs look fantastic so not much to worry about there

    that said, i have spent hours sitting on a stump at the front of my shed, in the shade of an afternoon, with a cork sanding block and sandpaper to fit ... i used the bandsaw to cut cork blocks into smaller and/or odd shapes to assist with the sanding ... i have not had to deal with burn marks or wild variations in shape so i start at 120 move to 240 and finish at 400 ... (if sanding on a lathe or with rotex i would add 180 and 320 between that and for some things, add 600, 800, and higher to that but i find the models come up reasonably nicely with the simpler sanding regime) ... i generally sand with the grain

    with very small parts i hold the block still and move the piece across the sandpaper and vice versa for larger parts .... i always sand the parts before assembly and rarely, (but not never) have to touch the assembled model with sandpaper ...

    but i say again ... your paint jobs look great, mate

    regards david

    PS i am also interested whether you have or where you get your plans

    d

  11. #10
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    Default

    thanks so much for the compliment

  12. #11
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    Default

    im going to buy one of them

  13. #12
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    Thumbs up

    I use mostly oak, mahogany,and walnut and don't seem to have much trouble with the burning but here lately been using some cherry and it seems to burn just looking at it. lol
    I'm a sanding nut and sand all the marks out as the parts are cut then as their glued up I sand with the disk sander to level all the parts.
    One thing I've found that works great on the inside of windows to make the surfaces smooth and straight is a flat file, I've just started doing this here lately and my hard to get at places are doing much better.
    As always there's a hundred way to do any thing but this has been working for me.
    As you can see in the pictures when I first started using the file I used an old metal ruler to use as a guide to keep things straight but as I got better at it don't need the ruler except on long runs.
    Plus by using a vice to hold the wood I can use both hands to keep things level, and also have the vise clamped to the table so have complete control as I file.
    It comes out so smooth most times I don't need to sand.

    IMG_1948.jpgIMG_1949.jpgIMG_1950.jpg

    Here's another great sanding tool.
    When I first got this it said it was a 80 grit but the sand didn't last any time at all but man this thing works great to buff the small scratches out, plus it softens the edges evenly.
    IMG_1679.jpgIMG_1680.jpg

  14. #13
    crowie's Avatar
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    Thanks Bruce....At least "Hornpout" in the USA and can take advantage of those beaut prices and specials....we DownUnder can only wish and hope!!! Cheers, Peter

  15. #14
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    crowie most things now a days are made in China especially the cheap stuff so it may be down under, under a different brand name.

    And all this is is a bolt a couple a nuts and washers and some of those pads used to scrub a tub me thinks, would be easy to make your own and it works really well.
    What I was looking for when I found it was a flap sander to do some fast shaping but the 80 grit came off so fast it wasn't any use for that.
    I read it's really great for polishing brass too.

  16. #15
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    hornpout
    When I made my comments I had no idea of your abilities, I keep sticking a foot in my mouth around here, but Hey!! I work better with a foot there I think.

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