Thread: Casting and stabilizing twigs and small branches

Doesn't this image show that you cast all the sticks in one big long log.
Stuff them all down a piece of pvc pipe then pour the resin.
Trim to a square.
stabilise if you need to.

Then cut 1/4 or 3/8 inch slices off the end until you have enough slices for the board?
this would also give you clean timber surface for the top.

Are you planning to cast one batch in black resin and the second batch in another colour.

I'd be going with dried twigs rather than green ones.

Nice idea by the way, might have to try it myself.

I really like that pipe idea.

I was hoping to make the squares random looking rather than obviously cut from one "log". I guess I could do it by putting shorter lengths in the pipe and make layers of an inch or so or different stick arrangements, or use a short wide pipe and randomize where the squares are taken from. Both ways could be a bit wasteful though. Definitely worth a bit more thinking though.

With your instructions, are you saying I can stabilize after it's been cast and before it's cut down? I'm utterly clueless in this department but would have thought you'd stabilize first, cast, then cut.

From memory only one color of squares was done like this on the board I saw. It made a really nice contrast between the two - solid and gappy. I guess if you used two distinctive woods for each color you could do the whole board this way.

dai sensai would be the one to check but I'm pretty sure you can stabilise after casting.
I don't think you'll need to stabilise if you use dry twigs/sticks (say up to thumb thickness).

I'm guessing 1 1/2 inch squares.

I'd go the pipe, get 3 inch long pieces and just start shoving them down a 2 ft pvc pipe that you sprayed with canola oil or something (or cut it off after).
Then cast that whole bundle into a 2 ft log (you'll need to work out how long it needs to be depending on thickness you cut the squares).

Or cast 4 separate logs 5 or 6 inches long .

then cut it square on a table saw, resin will cut on it.
then cut slices off the end with a drop saw, go medium speed so as not to chip out and not slow or it may melt and bind.

Your going to do a lot of sanding after to get it smooth like the guys do with pens finishes.

Its got to be easier than slicing the timber into slices first and then casting each square separate, or casting a 1/4 inch slab and then slicing strips and then nito squares (but less sanding maybe).

Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy

..The discs would be end grain and only 5 mm or so thick so it'll be tricky for them to hold themselves together.

My two biggest concerns are:
- stopping the discs from splitting and opening up - does stabilizing fix that? Can/should you stabilize still green/moist timber?
- being able to remove saw/sanding marks for a glassy finish (even if I end up using a poly coat over the whole thing)

Any tips, hints or suggestions?

Cheers

Stabilizing only works on dry timber, resin and moisture do not mix.

I'd leave the branch whole to dry, a dehydrator or microwave would work, then once dry slice it up oversized. Glue the slices down onto a board with timber edges of some sort, then cast clear polyester resin in gaps. Once dry sand it down, through the grits to 1200, then you can coat with your poly.

Thanks Big Guy. Your way is probably easier (maybe more time consuming) but I get to control the layout a bit better and the quantity of resin (that was the word I was looking for instead of epoxy).

There's probably a good job for a thickness sander in there somewhere too. Dammit...now I'll HAVE to build one

Both methods are worth a shot. Fly's pipe idea got me thinking about coasters/inserts too. I'm finding more and more reasons (excuses?) to pick up the lathe an uncle is holding for me. It was his late father's so it might be a 80 year old clunker but better than nothing