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Thread: Pressure pot

  1. #1
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    Default Pressure pot

    Checked out the Supercheap Auto pressure pot. Price is now $200 which includes the lines & gun as well. They won't seperate. Looks like someone at the rubbish tip will be the proud owner ot a spray gun and hose or I might be able to sell as a part payment on an air compressor

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  3. #2
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    Similar pressure pots are sold on Ebay, haven't checked prices lately though.

    Super Cheap had them for $99 recently, they have them at that price a few times a year if you are prepared to wait.

    Edit:

    Just checked

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Lt-PRE...item1e5dcfcd55

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    Similar pressure pots are sold on Ebay, haven't checked prices lately though.

    Super Cheap had them for $99 recently, they have them at that price a few times a year if you are prepared to wait.

    Edit:

    Just checked

    10 Lt PRESSURE POT SPRAY GUN TANK HOUSE PAINT AIR TOOLS | eBay
    also got mine at super cheap for $99 bucks

  5. #4
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    I got mine for $99 some time ago.
    David
    giveitagoturning @hotmail.com

  6. #5
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    About $120 from super cheap on special awhile back

    Cheers ian

  7. #6
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    Default Supa Cheap


  8. #7
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    Yeah thats the one that I got awhile back and it seems fine. Good luck and hope you got one finally and at a good price ?

    Cheers Ian

  9. #8
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    Sep 2008
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    So once you get the Supercheap 10 litre pressure pot, what mods do you need to turn it into a casting pressure pot?

  10. #9
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    Think I must be at the same point as you. I was sent this link 2 or 3 days ago. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f204/pressure-pot-76319/.

  11. #10
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    Sep 2008
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    Thanks Fly, I had been looking at a few different threads and was completely confused. All better now.

  12. #11
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    Now I have questions.

    I've just taken my pressure pot out of the box to see whats in there and what I need to get for a conversion. I'm not sure I want to convert it so it cannot be used for its original purpose without an hour of manipulation.

    I'm happy to make needed changes but I'd just like to know why I'm doing things.
    (Teachers got lots of questions in school as a kid as well).

    Why isn't the conversion just the elimination of the hoses to the spray gun?

    Why can't I just cap the larger or smaller outlet and add a tap to the other hose outlet? to release pressure after cast.

    I can see the advantage of adding a tap to the inlet so I'm happy to do that, although there is a tap at my compressor leading to the pressure pot.

    Is it being done to remove some of the crowding on the lid?

    I've read this post https://www.woodworkforums.com/f204/pressure-pot-76319/ a few times over, It's a great explanation of what to do but not really why it is being done.

    Thanks Peter

  13. #12
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    Peter,

    I have posted a couple of photos of my pressure pot here we used all the existing parts that came with the pressure pot with the addition of a Nitto fitting to connect my airline, a water trap regulator and a tap to bleed off any excess air pressure just in case. We also bought a couple of small fittings to make it all work and to blank off what would have been the paint outlet to the spray gun.
    The only part that really needs to be removed is the inlet pipe on the inside of the lid however that can be re-fitted again if you had the need to use it as a pressure pot for painting again.

    Cheers
    Tony.

  14. #13
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    Thanks Tony,

    I think mine looks a bit more like yours.
    I didn't put a water trap in but I have one somewhere I'll put that in (Nope,turns out its an oiler) and do I need it if my compressor has one already?

    My pot came with nitto fitting so I'm ok there.

    I really only put a tap on the 3/8 fitting and another on the 1/4 fitting. I ran the airline fitting to the T with the pressure guage.

    I didn't remove the internal paint pipe. I've seen a thing on youtube where the woman uses the pot on its side, that way I can make the pipe fit over the top (or under) of the top shelf. Give me more area internal for shelves. I'll get 2 wedges for outside the pot that I'll nail to ply to stop it rolling.

    Am I on the right track or am I set to blow myself up?

    I've just retired and would hate to be immobilized in the first weeks.

    Peter

    OK, Just looked at tony's again and see why I need the tap on the input side of the air. Why? So I can close tap and keep pressure inside or I need to keep the compressor running.
    Now I don't need 3 taps, 2's plenty, so I need to cap the 3/8 or the 1/4, and get a water trap at the same time.
    Off to BGS again.

  15. #14
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    Now you have got it The water trap regulator allows you to both regulate pressure and isolate / trap any water that may be present in your compressor tank or in your air lines before allowing it into your casting chamber Its also good that you have kept the pressure release valve as a secondary safety measure.
    I have still to dummy run mine yet to check for leaks but that should not be any big deal.

    Happy casting
    Cheers
    Tony.

  16. #15
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    Nov 2008
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    Default

    I picked one of these pots up a couple of weeks ago as well, it is set up pretty well identical to Tony's. Just as well I got the water trap as it saved me a trip to town to swap the pot. The dial on the regulator is bent, the needle hangs up on it at 20 lbs, so will just use the water trap one.

    Yet to use it, but want to get to it real soon. I used plenty of thread tape on the connections and checked it with soapy water, no leaks on mine but a barely discernable leak showed at the base of the outlet. Did not show any loss of pressure over 6 hours at 40lbs. so it's ok.

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