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Thread: Vinyl paper problems
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11th June 2017, 11:46 AM #1Senior Member
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Vinyl paper problems
I have been casting pens using images printed onto vinyl paper with the adhesive back. I wrap the paper around the brass tube with about 1-2 mm overlap creating a seam. When casted, the seam lifts and is wavy as though the adhesive has lifted. My theory is that the adhesive on the back of the paper has lost its grip or it is lifting due to the heat of the curing process. I use a pressure pot to eliminate air bubbles. I have had this paper for a few years. Has anyone experienced this problem. It has only been the last 6 casts where this has happened. I have ordered some new paper but still have a lot of existing paper. Shame to discard it.
appreciate any advice.
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11th June 2017, 01:35 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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No idea on what might have changed, but you could try sealing the tube with a coat of CA before casting?
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14th June 2017, 03:25 PM #3
I have had the same problem plenty of times and my solution to this was to switch to doing decals instead of stickers I could not work out for the like of me what to do I did try CA and it did not seem to make any difference so I am sorry that I cannot help you but do look forward to any answers that may come up. I also do not believe that your paper is causing the problem.
Cheers ian
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14th June 2017, 03:30 PM #4
Have you sealed it with a water based clear finish before casting? Resins often dissolve the glue on stickers. I used to seal the transfers too
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
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14th June 2017, 05:06 PM #5Senior Member
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The only thing that I have done differently is changes from Diggers Clear Casting resin to Barnes resin. The only reason that I changed is due to a bad batch of Diggers resin as mentioned in a previous post. Other that that change, everything else is the same as I have always done.
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14th June 2017, 06:58 PM #6
Thankyou oh wise one I must admit I can't remember if I did that the last time I done them which was some time ago. I know I have done them with the Glue/CA and it didn't solve the problem but I am not sure if I have done the other so will give it a go soon.
Thanks Neil
Cheers Ian
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14th June 2017, 07:20 PM #7Senior Member
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I have tried water slide transfers, firstly painting the tubes white. Unfortunately when they were turned, the transfers appeared to laminate at the ends which was noticeable. After no luck I moved back to the vinyl
paper.
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18th June 2017, 09:02 PM #8Senior Member
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Polyester Resin and the Calayst are very reactive
Daryl<br>
I use the transfers. Why ? I get great detail... I had the same issue esp at the ends ... I used a spray on acrylic .. but with occasional issues .. I then used PVA glue .. not bad .... and now I use Modpodge ( form of PVA, art product, dries clear ) .. very reliable .. why I think because the coat ( 2 coats) goes on thicker and stops the highly reactive parts of the polyester resin and catalyst from getting to the transfer... I paint on with a thickish detail paint brush and pay particular attention to the ends .. I get the Podge to flow over into the barrel. I remove this after I have cast... <br>
<br>
I trialled the transparent transfers on a white painted blank ... not great .. I now use the white transfer paper and cut precisely to the diameter and over lap slightly .. do really don't notice this in the pen ... . I try to make the ends a little longer and trim once dry ... <br>
<br>
There are lots of posts on casting ... suggest a slow cure where there is let heat generated ... <br>
<br>
I tried the vinyl transfers not bad ... I too found from time to time the transfer lifted ... try and really seal the ends as well .... I found the painted barrels work fairly well however the resin will attack the paint ... make sure this too is sealed. I prefer the transfers since I do really small detail of Goggomobil's... <br>
<br>
Not all polyester resins are the same .. they are blend of different things .. so it makes sense that different polyester resins will be more or less reactive ... try to follow the directions on drops of catalyst as possible ... do a small test before and go for a slow cure eg less heat generate... as you know from other posts the cure time varies considerably depending things .. plenty of posts on this... <br>
<br>
<br>
Randal
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19th June 2017, 06:56 PM #9Senior Member
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Thanks for this info. I must give it a go. Yes the quality of the print is very good. Do you use a pressure pot to reduce the risk of bubbles forming.
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20th June 2017, 09:17 PM #10Senior Member
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Hello Randal, I see that there is different types of Modpodge. Is the glue/sealer the correct one. Does it take long to dry and does it dry without streaking. Just trying to get my head around the process.
thanks
Daryl
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21st June 2017, 09:56 PM #11Senior Member
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23rd June 2017, 08:55 PM #12Senior Member
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Mod podge
Plaid Mod Podge Gloss $8-9 for 118ml at Ekersley's Art and Craft
Plaid Mod Podge is the original all-in-one sealer, glue and finish. Perfect for wood, paper, fabric and other porous surfaces, such as terra cotta, plastic foam, and candles, it's quick and easy to use. As a glue, it dries clear and holds tight.
Non-toxic with a soap and water clean up makes it great for kids. As a sealer it protects acrylic paints, stains, decoupage and fabric. Leaves a soft finish. No crafter should be without it. Plaid Mod Podge Gloss leaves a high gloss finish
You can get a similar product from most Art and Craft shops ....
Dries clear and I usually apply 2 coats ... being careful to cover ends of barrel .... I use a small paint brush and applyliberally .... the finish doesn't look smooth and silky .. once cast in resin this seems to disappear.
Randal
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