Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 25 of 25
  1. #16

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simomatra View Post
    Hi Digger

    Cocobola is an oily timber and as such needs to be sealed before the WOP can be used. I have used DNA or acetone to wipe the blank clean of any oil then seal with thin CA. After it is sealed then 4 coats of poly as per the tutorial. Any timber that is oily will have this problem.
    I will give this a try.....

    could any sanding sealer be used instead?

    thanks mate

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Aberglassly,NSW
    Age
    80
    Posts
    4,979

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by digger View Post
    I will give this a try.....

    could any sanding sealer be used instead?

    thanks mate
    Yes digger I have used sanding sealer just give it time to dry fully before using the WOP or as I saw it called earlier on another forum Quote " I've never heard of an Italian finish" End Quote

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Busselton Western Australia
    Age
    85
    Posts
    61

    Talking Minwax Polyurethane Pen finish Tutorial

    G'Day...tried several times to download the tutorial without success..the message states that 'not avaialble on Internet Explorer'...could well be me as I am no where near a wizard on this sort of thing... Chuditch

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Port Kennedy, Perth
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,031

    Default

    I live in Perth (Port Kennedy) and have looked around at the local hardware shop and I am unable to find any Minwax, can anyone tell me where I can buy it from.
    David

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Busselton Western Australia
    Age
    85
    Posts
    61

    Talking Minwax Polyurethane Pen finish

    G'day...I live in Busselton...tried Bunnings but no joy...will keep looking!!;;

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Liberty Lake, WA USA
    Posts
    446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by digger View Post
    I have turned a pen in cocobolo and sanded it as per the totorial but the first coat hasn't dried after more than 48hrs probably due to oily nature of the timber.
    Does anyone have any further experinces to help out?
    I'm sure you'll get a lot better advice than what I can offer but this is what I do for oil woods.

    I give the wood what I call an alcohol bath.

    Take your cocobolo blanks and dunk them in a container (I use a small juice can) of denatured solvent alcohol. (I use the 90% type).

    Let them sit in the DNA for an hour. You'll see the DNA change colors as the resin is pulled from the wood.

    Remove the blank and replace the DNA with a fresh batch and rinse.

    Let dry overnight or if in a rush use accelerator to dry the surface.

    You'll notice the wood will be much lighter in weight and color, as much of the resin has now been removed.

    Now you can apply the finish of your choice.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Mount Martha
    Age
    74
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Hi,

    Being a newby, I read just about everithing on the forum, especially posts that relates to woodturning in general and pen turning which I would like to get into.

    Thank you Les for the tutorials. It is really great help for people like me who are totally new to woodturning. There is something I just can't get despite reading and re-reading your step by step instructions. So, if my question is really stupid, apologies in advance.

    Here is the info from your tutorial and then the question:

    "Required Materials........Various grits of sand paper 400 through 1200
    Micro Mesh 1500 through 12,000"

    "Step 3. With the lathe running, start sanding with 400 grit through to 1200 grit stopping the lathe
    to sand the length of the blank between each grit to remove any sanding rings. As I am sanding I
    use my Micrometer sized for the kit fittings and keep checking the blank diameter until I have
    sanded down to about a 1 000ths of an inch proud of the required pen kit fitting diameters.

    Step 4.With the lathe running I continue sanding from 1500 down to 12,000 usingMicro Mesh
    without stopping to sand between grits.
    Once I am happy that the blank is sanded down to the correct diameter to match the pen kit fittings
    and I have a nice smooth void free finish, I wipe the blank down with a tack cloth to remove any
    dust."

    I assumed your sanding in step 3 were done by ANSI or CAMI USA grits and in step 4 you state that you used the Micro-Mesh 1500 to 12000 grits.

    It is my understanding that the Micro-Mesh 1500 grit is the equivalent/same as the ANSI or CAMI USA 400 grit. Also, the Micro-Mesh 3600 grit is the same as the ANSI or CAMI USA 1200 grit.

    Now here is the bit I do not get: why do you start sanding again in step 4 with Micro-Mesh 1500 which is a much coarser grit and undo the sanding quality of the ANSI or CAMI USA 1200 you finished with in step 3? I would have expected you to continue sanding in step 4 with Micro-Mesh 3600 which would be the next finer grit.

    Again, apologies if my question is really stupid?
    Regards
    Andy
    Last edited by aak; 16th December 2008 at 09:58 PM. Reason: Fixed typo: anderstanding to understanding

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Mount Martha
    Age
    74
    Posts
    115

    Default

    I noticed a few of you could not find MINWAX and was asking where to get it from. I was also looking to buy some and went to our local Bunnings store as the first place to try. I was told by two "helpers" that they do not have it, never even heard of it. One of them even checked their computer then called someone from headoffice. When I found MINWAX on their shelves they were astounded. The lesson in this for me and you, do not ask them just look for it!

    Here they have the High Gloss, the Satin and some reviver/cleaner. I have read the instructions on the can of the reviver/cleaner, but decided I do not it this time and put it back. I would suspect that if MINWAX products are available here then they could also be bought at your place at least on special order from your Bunnings store.

    Regards
    Andy

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Tennant Creek, Aust
    Age
    61
    Posts
    1,315

    Default

    Where about is Minwax available from.?

    DNA is this methylated spirits?

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default Updated tutorial uploaded

    Les has sent me an updated tutorial, it can be downloaded here.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Review - Minwax Wipe-On Poly Finish
    By Dean in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 24
    Last Post: 3rd June 2012, 09:48 PM
  2. DJ's CA Pen Finish Tutorial
    By DJ’s Timber in forum TUTORIALS
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 13th February 2009, 05:27 PM
  3. Replies: 3
    Last Post: 28th September 2005, 09:06 PM
  4. polyurethane finish
    By Green in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 29th March 2005, 10:36 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •