Minwax Polyurethane Pen Finish Tutorial - Page 2

digger · #16 19th Oct 2008, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simomatra

Hi Digger

Cocobola is an oily timber and as such needs to be sealed before the WOP can be used. I have used DNA or acetone to wipe the blank clean of any oil then seal with thin CA. After it is sealed then 4 coats of poly as per the tutorial. Any timber that is oily will have this problem.

I will give this a try.....

could any sanding sealer be used instead?

thanks mate

Simomatra · #17 19th Oct 2008, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digger

I will give this a try.....

could any sanding sealer be used instead?

thanks mate

Yes digger I have used sanding sealer just give it time to dry fully before using the WOP or as I saw it called earlier on another forum Quote " I've never heard of an Italian finish" End Quote

WoodWriteOz · #18 20th Oct 2008, 08:11 PM

G'Day...tried several times to download the tutorial without success..the message states that 'not avaialble on Internet Explorer'...could well be me as I am no where near a wizard on this sort of thing... Chuditch

dj_pnevans · #19 1st Nov 2008, 05:58 PM

I live in Perth (Port Kennedy) and have looked around at the local hardware shop and I am unable to find any Minwax, can anyone tell me where I can buy it from.
David

WoodWriteOz · #20 1st Nov 2008, 07:52 PM

G'day...I live in Busselton...tried Bunnings but no joy...will keep looking!!;;

rhossack · #21 2nd Nov 2008, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by digger

I have turned a pen in cocobolo and sanded it as per the totorial but the first coat hasn't dried after more than 48hrs probably due to oily nature of the timber.
Does anyone have any further experinces to help out?

I'm sure you'll get a lot better advice than what I can offer but this is what I do for oil woods.

I give the wood what I call an alcohol bath.

Take your cocobolo blanks and dunk them in a container (I use a small juice can) of denatured solvent alcohol. (I use the 90% type).

Let them sit in the DNA for an hour. You'll see the DNA change colors as the resin is pulled from the wood.

Remove the blank and replace the DNA with a fresh batch and rinse.

Let dry overnight or if in a rush use accelerator to dry the surface.

You'll notice the wood will be much lighter in weight and color, as much of the resin has now been removed.

Now you can apply the finish of your choice.

aak · #22 16th Dec 2008, 09:24 PM

Hi,

Being a newby, I read just about everithing on the forum, especially posts that relates to woodturning in general and pen turning which I would like to get into.

Thank you Les for the tutorials. It is really great help for people like me who are totally new to woodturning. There is something I just can't get despite reading and re-reading your step by step instructions. So, if my question is really stupid, apologies in advance.

Here is the info from your tutorial and then the question:

"Required Materials........Various grits of sand paper 400 through 1200
Micro Mesh 1500 through 12,000"

"Step 3. With the lathe running, start sanding with 400 grit through to 1200 grit stopping the lathe
to sand the length of the blank between each grit to remove any sanding rings. As I am sanding I
use my Micrometer sized for the kit fittings and keep checking the blank diameter until I have
sanded down to about a 1 000ths of an inch proud of the required pen kit fitting diameters.

Step 4.With the lathe running I continue sanding from 1500 down to 12,000 usingMicro Mesh
without stopping to sand between grits.
Once I am happy that the blank is sanded down to the correct diameter to match the pen kit fittings
and I have a nice smooth void free finish, I wipe the blank down with a tack cloth to remove any
dust."

I assumed your sanding in step 3 were done by ANSI or CAMI USA grits and in step 4 you state that you used the Micro-Mesh 1500 to 12000 grits.

It is my understanding that the Micro-Mesh 1500 grit is the equivalent/same as the ANSI or CAMI USA 400 grit. Also, the Micro-Mesh 3600 grit is the same as the ANSI or CAMI USA 1200 grit.

Now here is the bit I do not get: why do you start sanding again in step 4 with Micro-Mesh 1500 which is a much coarser grit and undo the sanding quality of the ANSI or CAMI USA 1200 you finished with in step 3? I would have expected you to continue sanding in step 4 with Micro-Mesh 3600 which would be the next finer grit.

Again, apologies if my question is really stupid?
Regards
Andy

aak · #23 16th Dec 2008, 09:44 PM

I noticed a few of you could not find MINWAX and was asking where to get it from. I was also looking to buy some and went to our local Bunnings store as the first place to try. I was told by two "helpers" that they do not have it, never even heard of it. One of them even checked their computer then called someone from headoffice. When I found MINWAX on their shelves they were astounded. The lesson in this for me and you, do not ask them just look for it!

Here they have the High Gloss, the Satin and some reviver/cleaner. I have read the instructions on the can of the reviver/cleaner, but decided I do not it this time and put it back. I would suspect that if MINWAX products are available here then they could also be bought at your place at least on special order from your Bunnings store.

Regards
Andy

wm460 · #24 7th Feb 2009, 07:38 PM

Where about is Minwax available from.?

DNA is this methylated spirits?

Big Shed · #25 4th Mar 2011, 02:33 PM

Les has sent me an updated tutorial, it can be downloaded here.