Thread: Beginner's first project - simple workbench

Hi Sean,
Just a suggestion as not everyone has Sketchup!

Could you post the design as a PDF or JPEG?
I'm sure Sketchup has that option.

Hi snowy,

Sorry about that and thanks for the tip . Here's an image of the bench.

looks interesting
what are you going to use for joinery?

Hi Boz,

Another forum member recommended starting out with pocket holes, and while investigating the different Kreg pocket hole jigs, I saw the free workbench plan on the Kreg website. So I'll use the little Kreg Rocket jig to join the pieces together.

Pocket holes sound like an excellent idea. Though I don't use them myself, they seem to be quick, efficient and strong.

Back to your first question re: overhang. If you mount it flush (no over hang) you can use clamps to hold a board to the leg frame and work on the edge of it. But it depends on what you want to do.

You could also consider some cross beams under to the top to take some of the flex out of the mdf.

Hi Boz,

My problem (well, one of them ) is that I'm not really sure what I want to do with it. My next project will be a simple cupboard for the laundry, but beyond that I'm not sure what else I'll be using it for - mostly storage cupboards I guess. As long as there are no issues with clamping things to a couple of 18mm sheets of MDF, then I guess it'll be fine. Clamping it to the leg frame would require the clamp jaws to open 36mm plus the 3.5" width of the pine board plus the width of the thing being clamped, and my supercheap clamps don't open that far, but I know zip about the common clamps that woodworkers use, so I just thought I'd ask the question in case I was missing something obvious.

I wasn't sure if you'd get much flex in two sheets of MDF put together over a relatively small frame, but since I have lots of extra 2 x 4 pine, it sounds like a no-brainer to add the cross beams in just in case - thanks for the idea. Back to Sketchup for another hour

smcg:
I know this may sound negative re your work bench but I noticed a little beginners style bench in the local Home Hardware here. OK not local to you but your local HH may be able to get it in.
It was about the same size as yours made of solid pine and had a good looking wood vice as well.

Again a beginners entry start. But for where you are at and what you want it may cost wise be more effective.

If you want I can check with my HH, get the details and send them across to you.

Hi Cultana,

That's not negative at all - I appreciate the thought. There's a Home Hardware less than 15 minutes from where I live so I'll pop in when I get a chance to have a look - if you remember any details that would be great. I've already bought the materials and tools to build my bench but it can't hurt to check it out. I was a bit surprised when I first started looking at benches - there are some that really aren't that flash that can sell for a few hundred dollars if not more. Given that I have no woodworking skills I figure it's a decent little project to have a go at, and even if it isn't the most cost-effective option at least I'll learn a few things in the process. Actually I already have - a 2x4 isn't actually 2" x 4"!!! And 19mm MDF is like hen's teeth - that'll teach me to blindly follow an American construction plan.

Not a problem. I will have a chat with them tomorrow about it.

My first bench was something like this but more basic. I then went and built my own a bit later.

If you go down the path of your own bench think seriously about using the legs as clamp posts. Thus no over hang of the bench top.
It also pays to have some peg holes in the legs to hold up the timber you want to clamp, you only have 2 hands and clamping usually requires at least 3 if not more without support pegs.

Had a chat with HH and the bench they had was a Christmas cat special. Simply a one off run. No doubt a nice flatpack Chinese import. It was about $140.

You could screw a piece of Masonite over the top of the MDF and it wouldn't matter then if you damage the top of the bench, just change the Masonite and Bob's your uncle. My Masonite has been on top of my bench for 10 years and I am just in the process of changing it.

You could also paint the MDF to seal it. Any water based paint will do, just insure you paint the edges of the MDF and paint both sides. This will ensure it is sealed and will not swell if any moisture gets on it.

Secure the Masonite with about 4 or 6 screws so when you change it, you can unscrew the screws easily and change the board.

Works for me!

Bast of luck with you build

Mike

Cultana - thanks a lot for having a look. I've never been into a HH (only Bunnings really unless buying power tools - prefer going to a dedicated hardware store instead), but I'll make sure to check them every once in a while. I'm not able to picture the peg holes and legs as clamp posts - I'll have a dig around for pics on the internet to find out.

Woodie2 - thanks for the tips. I'm reading a lot of posts on here about doing the same thing - much easier to change the masonite than the MDF I guess . And that's good news about the paint - I was a bit unsure whether water-based was okay due to reports of MDF swelling when it gets wet, so I thought I might have to use oil-based paint instead.

Cheers!

The pegs for support thing.

In this bench:
A. Diagram
21st Century Workbench, Featured in October 2008 Popular Woodworking by Popular Woodworking Magazine - Google 3D Warehouse

B. Video of above
Popular Woodworking - VIDEO - Build the 21st-Century Workbench

You will notice two rails on the front with holes. These are for pegs to hold the boards when being clamped in the face vice. Also they can be used just to hold the work while using good old clamps, especially if you don’t have a vice.
Actually I should not say too much as I don't have a vice, (wood type) .. Lots of the other type

The idea is to provide support for long boards that hang well outside of the vice.

Now that is one seriously impressive bench - thanks for the links!

I'm tweaking my design to remove the overhang and to include an extra rail at the front to put a bunch of peg holes in. Couple of questions about that:
1. What do you use to drill the peg holes? I have some spade bits for my drill but I made a mess the first couple of times I used them in chipboard.
2. Do the peg holes go all the way through the board or just say half an inch deep?
3. Is there a standard size for these pegs? Should they be a really tight fit in the peg hole (like using a mallet to drive them in)?
4. Would Bunnings/HH be the right place to buy the pegs?

Also, if I was going to seal the MDF, is it better to you a roller or a brush on the top section? Just wondering how to get a nice smooth finish?

Thanks again.