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  1. #1
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    Apr 2007
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    Default New bench? NO - a renovation!

    I decided to renovate the old workbench. It has served well for a few decades, but there were some things I did not like about the old design. The inability to easily clamp to the surface of the bench, it was a pain reaching under the wide apron to push up the dogs and it was also just a bit too light at times when planing. The mass just wasn’t there, even though the legs, bottom rails & stretchers were very dense aussy hardwood (when I made it originally it was green F27 building hardwood. Also, the old Dawn quick release vice on the front was just – well - TOO quick to release! So it was time to upgrade to something beefier and more reliable. And I wanted an end vice.

    The old design was a traditional English cabinetmakers bench – a wide front apron to prevent wracking, and a comparatively light (compared to the Roubou design at least) framework below – two side rails & a single long centre stretcher between the two. The top was a wide front work surface with a generous tool well and a narrow area at the rear for supporting wide stock & for assembly. The whole thing was a bot together design. The apron was key to the rigidity, with four bolts into each leg.

    Unfortunately I forgot to take any “before” photos, but it was something like this design from Graham Haydon (but with a centre stretcher between the two bottom end rails, and an apron only at the front):
    English Workbench.jpg

    Plan of the old stretcher layout:

    Original Stretchers.jpg

    I kept the original legs & laminated some more hardwood to the front to bring them out flush with the Oregon top (once I removed the old front apron, the top wasn’t flush with the legs). The bottom end rails & the stretcher were not reused.

    I was happy with the original top (300 x 75 Oregon for the main work surface) and I like the tool well. So that didn’t need a refresh, just some work to fix old Dawn vice mounting bolt holes & the cut-out where I had originally had to thin the top a bit to fit it:

    Repair.jpg

    I laminated some recycled Oregon & Radiata pine (both left over from house renovations) for the new stretchers & bottom end rails. The end rails were a simple lamination of 2 pieces of 170 x 45 Oregon, but the long stretchers were a bit more complex. The idea was to make a full length cavity to take some 12mm threaded rod – this would allow the whole thing to be tightened, but to allow disassembly if required. The centre 70 x 19 pieces of the lamination were extended to make double tenons at each end, and a piece of 40 x 19 Radiata made a ledge for the shelf under the bench.

    Stretchers.jpg


    I morticed the legs for the long stretchers (and also the left front leg for the parallel guide) & glued up the bottom end rails & front & back legs to make rigid assemblies for both the right & left sides (as well as draw boring & pegging them), then assembled the frame with the long stretchers & the threaded rod. The whole thing was VERY stable, even without the top end rails attached.

    DSC_0364.jpg

    The shelf between the stretchers was made from some cypress pine flooring.

    DSC_0370.jpg

    The top end rails bolt to the top of the legs, and the benchtop bolts down into the top end rails.

    I laminated some very dense hardwood (forget which species) that I had left over from a door sill to make a leg vice. I used a steel tail vice screw from Carbatec, and treated myself to a Hovarter X-Link rather than the traditional parallel guide. The shipping from Len Hovarter was very quick & the whole thing was quite an easy install. The installation guide from Len is very thorough, and the mechanism works really well. It’s a precision piece of engineering. As its aluminium, the shipping is a lot less than the Benchcrafted Crisscross, and aluminium is actually stiffer than cast iron. The swivel bearing Len uses for the top pin makes alignment much easier, so there is some tolerance for a bit of inaccuracy in drilling. I can highly recommend this (and no – id did not get a freebie or a discount for publicity – just very happy with the outcome.)

    DSC_0365.jpgDSC_0366.jpg DSC_0371.jpg

    I used a Carbatec Front Vice as an end vice. As I have two rows of dog holes, this works out really well. The jaw is also from some of that recycled Oregon, and I have dogs in the moveable jaw of the end vice.

    DSC_0368.jpg

    DSC_0369.jpg

    My bench anvil is on the bottom shelf to add even more mass – not that it needs it. It requires two people to move this sucker!

    DSC_0369.jpg

    All in all this was a great bench renovation. I only wish I had done it sooner!
    Last edited by RossM; 7th June 2016 at 12:34 AM. Reason: remove un-needed attachments

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Default Should I install a sliding deadwoman - or not?

    The slightly politically incorrect title is because these often seem to have a feminine shape- e.g.



    And I did come across this design sketch



    I'm debating with myself about building a sliding deadman (or deadwoman). On the old bench it was not an issue due to the wide apron & associated peg holes I had in it. I used it a bit, but then the old Dawn vice was not exactly "grippy" & I usually needed the extra support, even on shorter pieces.

    For those of you who have installed one of these - has it been worth the effort?

    Any design "gotchas" or things you would do differently if you did it again?

    I'm thinking a triangular section bottom rail for it to ride on, and a narrow groove under the bench-top into which I could slot a thin tongue bolted on behind the deadman (maybe ply or sheet metal). This should be an easy retrofit.

  4. #3
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Default



    Now Ross, I am most definitely NOT of the PC gone mad brand, but I really do think that "tongue" needs to be replaced with another word........surely mislocated anyway.....


    Nice work on the refurb! I like the idea of the wide apron, but I here what you say about dog difficulties. Which gets me to thinking..... ...what about a removable wide apron? Take off the bottom half when not required - have a line of Dominos glued into the top edge of the bottom that can ingress/egress from the bottom edge of the top - a hardwood brace or steel angle secured to the back of the removable piece for stiffness (although by the look of things so far that may not be required ) and just bolt it on when it's required (two bolts at each side should do it. To make the bolting/unbolting process quicker you could use cam locks and short pieces of T-Track.

    Just a thought.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Seattle, Washington, USA
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    Default

    Looks fantastic, Ross.

    I, for one, can attest to the fact that an overly light workbench is a drag... literally! I used to have to move my bench two or three times a day BACK into its original position because of how often it would move when I planed wood on it. It was limiting my ability to do successful work, so it had to go!

    Your vise configuration is different from mine, so it's tough for me to comment on the deadman/woman thing. The front of my bench overhangs the legs, so I can put a saw bench under it to support a large panel which is clamped in the front vise, but you may not be able to do that, so a deadman may be the go. If you can pull it off with a sawbench, I say try that. It works pretty well.

    Anyway, again, it looks phenomenal, but the most important thing is you're happy with it!

    Cheers,
    Luke

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Default

    Thanks Guys,

    That's not a bad thought Brett - I'll ponder a removable apron a bit more.

    A saw bench might work Luke, but I don't have a lot of space. Its not a proper workshop - just a marginally undercover area at the side of the house, and its only about 2m wide.
    I was suffering the same fate - the bench would move when planing. The extra mass of heavy duty rails & stretchers has made a huge difference.

  7. #6
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    Default

    To install the deadman youll need to either rout a slot in the top or some sort of track. Can you remove the top to rout it or can you turn it upside down?

    IMG_0068[1].jpgIMG_0066[1].jpg


    Also the triangle runner at the bottom to slide along.the bottom slide screws or glues on.

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