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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Imbil
    Posts
    1,167

    Default 12'saw

    That would be something to see I completely missed that missing ' your right 12" is a lot more like it(I'm not very smart but I can lift heavy objects well I used to be able to). I can't remember the name of the timber company but they were known to be the largest supplier or red gum in Australia they had a 8' blade mounted on the arm of a back hoe and that was pretty impressive.( I think the article was in Australian woodworker.)
    Regards Rod.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Thanks everyone for the input, suggestions, and ideas. I really appreciate any and all advice.

    Update.

    Friday I took a load of the 140mmx45mm planks of timber out to Fine Boxes shed(s) where he was able to size them down as per the dimensions in the plan. Cannot thank-you you enough for the generosity Steve!

    Collected a sheet of plywood Friday afternoon on the way home and made the first cut. This is the first cut of ANY project in the new workroom I have been building for the last year.
    IMG_1675.jpg

    Put the carcass together..really wish I had a cabinet makers saw for this. I will be looking into a circular saw with its own track like a festool one as this would take up less room and hopefully give me straighter cuts than I was able to achieve with a circular saw. There are a few issues with the edges but I will be able to fix these to some extent with a planer.

    IMG_1680.jpg

    Started to put together the face frames which require half lap joints. I think that I really need a dado blade for this job as I tried two other ways of producing these joints without much success.

    IMG_1684.jpgIMG_1685.jpg
    IMG_1689.jpg
    1. Using the Drop saw. This has a rudimentary depth gauge but it is not precise enough of the many cuts I would need to make some of the larger joints.
    2. I set up the Triton router table for the first time. This was an eye opener to saw the least. First time on a router and i had assumed that you just push the timber through the blade and exit with a perfect cut. This was not the case with the joints that I made. I have included a few pictures of how I was doing this to see if I have made any glaring mistakes with my setup which resulted in the 'stepped' cuts that I was getting.
    IMG_1686.jpgIMG_1687.jpg

    Not really sure what the two silver knobs on the fence are for as the seem to 'set' only one half of the fence.
    If any one has any suggestions on how to get a better product using the tools that I have on hand that would be great.

    That's all my progress so far. Hoping to get the face frames together over the next couple of days and then onto the top.

    Regards,
    Peter

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Ok I thought that I had the lap joint sorted!.

    I you tubed and read through the Triton forum until late last night looking for the elusive answer that would solve the half lap joint problem. I tried;

    1. setting the Triton up in the cross cut configuration. The issue here was that I could not adjust the table bed accurately enough across all four corners for this to be achievable. I then had a thought that I could adjust the saw blade depth from the saw itself (Makita brand I think). This could not be done accurately enough due to the release catch on the saw itself.

    2. Second Idea was to use a router instead of the saw. Seemed like it would work and I would get a greater breadth of cut. Win-win situation. I set the router up on the table sled and made a couple of test cuts. made adjustments using the fine adjustment screw on the router. Good clean cuts and accurate adjustment. 11:30pm time for bed. Below is the set up.
    IMG_1690.jpg

    Woke up this morning and tried a half lap joint. I ran into the same issue that I faced in the previous post. The cutter bit 'steps' its cut across the breadth of the half lap joint. I was sure that I had this beat. Have a look at the picture below of the lap joints. The lap goes from a 9mm cut at the first cut and extends to about 12mm in the last cut or pass. I tried going back over previous cuts to see if it was an issue with the bed of the triton ect however the cut was deeper over existing cuts as well. I hope my explanations are clear enough. I lack the "language" to adequately explain what I am seeing.

    IMG_1691.jpgIMG_1692.jpg

    At this stage I am at a loss. I have ONE Irwin chisel that was used as a demolition tool in resent renovations that I will have to resort to unless I can work out the issue with the Triton. I set up the face timbers on the bench with a system of clamps (see below) and there are a LOT of joints that I would need to make with the chisel.

    IMG_1693.jpg


    Thanks for looking


    Peter

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Hi Peter

    I am not sure why you are using such wide lap joints, but .....

    The question is what is going on with your lack of accuracy? It should be possible to achieve much better results than you are getting. I assume that this is due to your lack of experience and issues of set up.

    The setup: ensure everything is square and flush. Add shims if needed. Ensure that the router bit and the router depth stop are tight. Your problems look like they are due to irregularities here. A dado blade in a tablesaw is subject to the same limitations, often more as they do not necessarily cut a flat floor, and then you would need to clear this up.

    The procedure: do not try and cut to the final depth in one hit. It looks like you are doing that. Set the depth stop for intermediate depths as well as the final depth. Mark all the boards clearly, and test on a scrap before you begin a run at a specific depth. Do all the boards at one depth before moving on to another depth. This saves setting up each time, and ensure that they are all the same at the end.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Jimboomba. Qld
    Posts
    437

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PeTeR1810 View Post

    Not really sure what the two silver knobs on the fence are for as the seem to 'set' only one half of the fence.
    If any one has any suggestions on how to get a better product using the tools that I have on hand that would be great.


    Regards,
    Peter
    G'day Peter,

    The half fence is to prevent snipe on the exit of the board.
    The idea is to adjust the 1/2 fence out to support the part of the board the has just exited the cutter bit.
    Has to be readjusted for all different cuts except straight profile cut then has to be level with the other fence.
    In both cases it is designed to give a smooth even support to the whole board.


    Cheers

    Steve

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Hi Derek,

    You nailed the diagnosis as lack of experience! I went back over the router and tried to tighten the collet more but it was on very tight. I will completely disassemble it from the mount this afternoon and have another go at it. In the mean time I sourced another router and will try this one to see if the same mistakes are replicated. Worst case I will have a second router which I can set up for half the cut like you suggested.

    Regarding the Lap Joints. I am using them simply because I am trying to follow the plans like a paint by number project . In any case I would be equally inexperianced with any other joint.

    Steve, Thanks for the information on the second fence on the router table. I assumed it was something like that.

    Hopefully I will have some more progress over the next few days.

    Regards

    Peter

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    18

    Default Bench Finds its own Feet!

    I have a made a little more progress to date. The bench has now made it off the saw horses’ and onto its very own feet.


    But first I wanted to provide some background information on the project. I have been building this workshop space for a year to eventually house my Grandfather’s wood working and wood turning tools and machines. I do not want to bring the tools out of their current location until I have set up the shop to house them properly. To this end I have been only collecting tools that I felt I could use immediately to get this bench built. I have been limiting these to as few tools as possible so that I can spend some time sharpening/de-rusting etc. I have really enjoyed this ‘maintenance’ part of this build as much as the actual build process. I am therefore learning as I go. I am hoping that by doing this build log that I get as many suggestions/criticisms/solutions as possible. I have very thick skin so If you see an issue/improvement that could be made please let me know.

    The timber package that I purchased early last year is pictured below. It was sold as “European Beech” by an Auction house in Brisbane’s south.

    IMG_1667[1].jpg

    This Auction House’s main focus area seemed to be white goods. I recently took some of the timber out to a Forum members shed to be dressed into some more manageable sizes, and he has suggested that the timber is not European Beech. If anyone can identify the species that would be great. Let me know what information/pictures I would need to supply to make this viable.

    I took the Bench down off the saw horses’ last week and have been working, very slowly, on the glue up of the top. I have only screwed the face frame onto the plywood carcase at this stage and will have to unscrew this and glue/clamp/screw once I am sure I have made no major screw ups.

    IMG_1697[1].jpg

    My Paint by numbers approach has encountered a few issues.

    1. I made the width of the draws and cupboards as per the plan without taking into account my board widths that I had in hand. This resulted in a number of glue-ups and rip downs.
    2. I also made a mistake on the face frame on the tail vice end. I put the face frame at this end inline with the interior carcase face, which subsequently ran 60mm passed the carcase making the finishing at this point difficult. I had to put spaces behind the end boards, gluing and screwing one face at a time so no screws would be visible on the outside. I hope this makes sense.



    You can also see in the above picture the Tail vise screw that I picked up from Caraba Tec last weekend and that I am planning on using as either a tailvice ‘L’ Shaped or wagon vice (I am still undecided). The trip to Carbatec was actually timed very well as they had a number of woodworks demonstrating tips and tricks. I got some great dovetailing advice and lots of handy shop tips from Steve along with a Japanese saw and a dovetail marking gauge. Steve walked me through the steps required for the half blind dovetails that the draws require. This will be my next step.


    I have also Glued up the top!. I Glued two boards and another two boards but have not glued this pair together yet. Out of Titebond! Will pick some up after work this week and should have this done over the weekend.

    IMG_1700[1].jpg

    The Picture below gives you an indication of where I am up to presently.


    IMG_1701[1].jpgBench on the ground.jpg

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Jimboomba. Qld
    Posts
    437

    Default

    Great Job Peter, impressed with the speed of construction.
    Looking forward to future insights.

    Cheers

    Steve

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    I also think this is a good build. Making errors and resolving them, reminds us of what we will do next time. May not be a bench but something else.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Age
    70
    Posts
    2,730

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PeTeR1810 View Post

    The timber package that I purchased early last year .... was sold as “European Beech” by an Auction house in Brisbane’s south.
    If anyone can identify the species that would be great. Let me know what information/pictures I would need to supply to make this viable.
    Nice looking bench. That timber wouldn't be American Cherry would it?

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    18

    Default Computers and Wood dust do not mix

    Quote Originally Posted by Fuzzie View Post
    Nice looking bench. That timber wouldn't be American Cherry would it?
    I dont think that it is American Cherry, but I am only baseing this assumption on the fact that the grain/growth rings are not nearly as wide as whats in the picture. i will try to get a better picture soon.

    On a Another note.

    I have been keeping my laptop in the shed whilst I was working on the bench as that is where I was keeping the plans and dimensions. I have since found out that the dust that I was making had a fatal effect on the computer. I have now sourced a replacement laptop and will update the log with some more pictures this weekend.

    Peter

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    18

    Default Tail vice installation issues on shaker workbench

    Hello all,

    one year ear on and I have only managed to complete the dog strip and end cap. I have it all dry fitted to the bench now but am having some design issues with the installation of the tail vice. I have a screw that I purchased from Carbatec that I am trying to use like a benchcrafted tail vice. If anyone has seen any web links that shows how this can be done and is willing to share that would be very helpful.

    regards,

    Peterimage.jpgimage.jpg

  14. #28
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

    Default

    can you put up a piccy of the screw - I'm having difficulties in envisaging what you are wanting to do
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    18

    Default Additional pictures of vice hardware

    image.jpgimage.jpg
    The above pictures show the underside of the bench with where I am up to on the vice installation and the second shows the bench right side up.

    any help great fully appreciated

    regards

    Peter

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,982

    Default

    What link or idea did you use to get this far? Is the vise secured to the wooden bracket configuration or just to the end cap?

    To make this work you need to have the dog block ride the thread back and forth. For that you would need either a threaded "L" shaped bracket like the benchcrafted to ride the thread or work out some other way. Is this what the piece of wood is next to the vise bracket is for?

    also DoctorBobski has just posted that he is making the same bench as you and is somewhat near you maybe he has an idea or the BC version?
    Last edited by Pac man; 30th December 2014 at 10:08 AM. Reason: Looked at photo again

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