Thread: Bubblegoose's bespoke Split top Roubo

Originally Posted by AdamAnt

Thanks for sharing. Nice build. Unless I missed it, you never mentioned why you went with the split top? Also, why not turn the rods around and have the threaded ends under the bench?

My thoughts too.

Even so this is an extremely interesting design. I have been mulling over the best design for my intended Moxon
and this has given me more food for thought. I think I can pick up a barbell at the tip but the nuts might be a
problem if not with the bar.

Actually that was another thing I had meant to comment on as well- great idea using the barbell ends! I have been wondering where to get some acme threaded rod ( on the cheap) for a while now and this is it. The barbell nuts could even be converted to"spinnable" wheels (barbell weights?). Another question though: how well do they hold in practice against multiple impacts like hammer chiselling the workpiece? From when I used to use my barbell I remember the nuts would frequently loosen in use ( maybe just because of the weights turning them loose?)

Originally Posted by AdamAnt

Thanks for sharing. Nice build. Unless I missed it, you never mentioned why you went with the split top? Also, why not turn the rods around and have the threaded ends under the bench?

I went with the split top for two reasons. I wanted the centred tool storage, and work stop options. I also would like to use clamps in the middle of the bench, on my old bench I had to drill holes and take clamps apart to get them up through.
And secondly I could make them and mill them with the tools I have in two parts. As the thicknesser has a 300mm capacity.


Having the rods this way gives several advantages. Firstly, you can have multiple front jaws for different tasks. I now have a thick sturdy jaw with dog holes, as well as a thinner jaw with a heavy taper. Because the jaws are so easily replaceable, it means they can be switched out for a new one when one gets banged up and cut into etc. because the barbell has a short threaded section and a much longer rod section, spinning it around would limit the amount of vice travel significantly. That kind of approach would work better with some threaded rod stock. It's also a lot easier to construct, and as other moxon vices out there use this method I thought it would be alright to try.

Originally Posted by AdamAnt

Actually that was another thing I had meant to comment on as well- great idea using the barbell ends! I have been wondering where to get some acme threaded rod ( on the cheap) for a while now and this is it. The barbell nuts could even be converted to"spinnable" wheels (barbell weights?). Another question though: how well do they hold in practice against multiple impacts like hammer chiselling the workpiece? From when I used to use my barbell I remember the nuts would frequently loosen in use ( maybe just because of the weights turning them loose?)

Exactly, this entire build was about doing things on the cheap.

I will be making some wooden "covers" for the nuts that will slip over and provide more leverage. The rubber on the inside of the nut hugs the wood very very well, and slippage isn't an issue at all. The biggest problem was the force required to tighten the vice adequately with the small diameter nuts, which the wooden covers will overcome. But once it's tightened down it defiantly doesn't back off. I was able to plane the end grain, chisel into it from the side (even using an old blunt beater with a hammer).

Over the weekend I sanded it all to 240 and then applied the finish.

Side note, I picked up the new model of the ryobi random orbital sander 18v, and i'm inpressed by how good it is compared to the old one. It has a much better switch on it, it's much less "buzzy", so it feels nicer to use, and the dust collection on it is phenomenal. Pretty good for 80 bucks...

I went with boiled linseed oil for a finish, as I have a few bottles of it (because this is all being done on the cheap).

IMG_3486.JPG

I have cut and glued up the centre strip, and I will complete that this afternoon.

So the centre strip is now complete. I have sanded it all up, and made the cuts required to fit.

I cut some 6mm ply into some small squares, and tacked them onto the tops of the stretchers. I then made some notches in the strip in that location so that it can sit over them and be flush with the two sides.

IMG_3564.jpg


Just a quick lift and a slide to the right raises it by 6mm to be used as a stop. Or perhaps a plane and chisel rest.

IMG_3573.jpg


I cut various slot sizes, to accommodate a large range of tools. There are a couple of small holes for centre punches, and a larger hole at the end that can be used for a marking gauge. My speed square (framing square) can sit down in one of the larger gaps as well.

IMG_3620.jpg



Thanks for taking the time to see what I've been up to. There are only a few things that need to be done now, so definitely on the home straight. And I also have plans for another bench!! This one will be a little bit different But won't replace this bench in the slightest.

Just some thoughts.

So after using this bench a few times (not a lot, but I think enough to have an opinion on it), I have some thoughts on what works, what doesn't work, what might need to be changed if I ever build another (when I build another), and just general thoughts.

Likes:

The dog holes and (insert name of what my right hand side vice is actually called) work really really well. I have just been using some pieces of dowel at the moment and they hold solid enough for what I do, even with a little bit of pressure. I have used them to hold boards while planing, and also while sanding and just those small points of contact are enough to hold it steady and leave the entire top surface free to work on (which is the point of them).

I really like the tool holder, it has been a convenient place to put tools while in use, rather than having them roll around. I'm thinking about making something that can go on one of the ends of the bench, that I can use to hold tools when I am working on bigger projects. But at the moment this hasn't been an issue.

Compared to my last bench, the solidness of this one allows planing to flow smoothly. I was able to take off some shavings that were a good 5cm wide, and 3mm thick on a meter length of tas oak, and it didn't budge at all. If fact, it didn't even seem like it was going to move. Hammering with the mortise chisels was also a joy, and there was only slight "vibration" I guess you would say. This would be due to the thickness of the top, and I think if I was going to do this again an even thicker top would be nice (I would need to do what I did to the stretchers to achieve that thickness).


Things I would change next time:

With this one, I made the bench to suit the shops configuration. I think it would be better If i had made the bench slightly bigger, and then arranged my other tools to suit it. I would have gone for something another 500mm longer at least. I would have also made the bench wider. The rear slab and tool holder slot I would have left as is, however I would have made the front section another 200mm deep.

As touched on above, I would probably make the top thicker if I was going to the effort of making it again. Maybe even go as far as double as thick, although that would provide more challenges and extra time in construction, it would be worth it. And touching on that point, I would also bump the leg thickness up even more. I tried to go thick enough, without going overboard. However next time I think I would just go overboard and go another 30-40mm thicker/wider. Although then It wouldn't fit into the mortiser as I think the max depth is like 100mm , but those can always be cut a different way.


Thoughts:

I still haven't added the spacers to the bottom of the bench to bring it up to the correct height, However I haven't had any issues with my feet hitting the lower support either. In fact, I have from time to time used it as a foot rest. So I can't say if I like it or dislike it the way it is? There are pro's and cons to both I guess.

After the trial setup for the moxon pin system, it is working wonderfully, it just needs to be a bit more rigid. When the rods are out a bit, they really do get in the way. But luckily with just a turn and push and they go away and I don't have to worry about running . The pins are bending (being a soft gal nail), so I will need to upgrade the pins to something more solid. And I will also need to redo the rack setup as planed out of metal angle. With a wider opening at the bottom of the slots as mentioned earlier in the thread.

I need to add some suede to the moxon vice jaw for a bit more holding power. As even when cranked down, it has a bit of slippage when hammering.

Great looking bench very well done.Maybe some roll pins instead of the nails?
Regards Rod.

Hmm, BG, it's a sure sign of another bench somewhere down the track when you are listing 'mistakes & improvements' already....

Whatever, you've done an excellent job on this one, and as most of will attest, there is no such thing as a perfect bench. There'll always be things you will wish you did differently. Took me several attempts to get to get a bench I am (almost) perfectly happy with. If my own experience is anything to go by, you'll soon get used to minor 'deficiencies' & learn to work around them, but if they are serious, they'll bug you more & more 'til you feel you just have to make the next one. At least you'll have a much better bench to work on while building #2 & this one will make a good auxillary afterwards. If you have the room for it, an extra bench can come in mighty handy at times.

Couple of comments: Some folks find tool racks in, on, or at the back of the bench a great thing, others don't. I spent much time & thought designing & building a rack for my first 'real' bench, but quickly discovered the tools spent more time getting in my way than being convenient, so it was soon ripped off. My bench has a tool well, & although many people hate those because they become a repository for junk, as long as you are reasonably disciplined they can do the job of keeping stuff out of your way when working on things that tend to occupy the full width of the bench. Luckily, I can have my tool cupboard right beside my bench, so it's only a step or two to take out & return tools as I need them. At least that's the plan, sometimes I do end up with one or two extra tools on the bench!

With the bottom stretchers almost at (or at?) floor-level, you've created a nice little pen to corral the shavings etc., how do you clean it out? I'm talking as a luddite who sweeps up with a broom, I guess, & it's probably no problem if you own a decent vacuum system?

And a sticky-beak question - did you make that tool lying on the bench in one of the pics (the one with a hollow-chisel mortiser in a handle), & what do you use it for?

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Hmm, BG, it's a sure sign of another bench somewhere down the track when you are listing 'mistakes & improvements' already....

Whatever, you've done an excellent job on this one, and as most of will attest, there is no such thing as a perfect bench. There'll always be things you will wish you did differently. Took me several attempts to get to get a bench I am (almost) perfectly happy with. If my own experience is anything to go by, you'll soon get used to minor 'deficiencies' & learn to work around them, but if they are serious, they'll bug you more & more 'til you feel you just have to make the next one. At least you'll have a much better bench to work on while building #2 & this one will make a good auxillary afterwards. If you have the room for it, an extra bench can come in mighty handy at times.

Couple of comments: Some folks find tool racks in, on, or at the back of the bench a great thing, others don't. I spent much time & thought designing & building a rack for my first 'real' bench, but quickly discovered the tools spent more time getting in my way than being convenient, so it was soon ripped off. My bench has a tool well, & although many people hate those because they become a repository for junk, as long as you are reasonably disciplined they can do the job of keeping stuff out of your way when working on things that tend to occupy the full width of the bench. Luckily, I can have my tool cupboard right beside my bench, so it's only a step or two to take out & return tools as I need them. At least that's the plan, sometimes I do end up with one or two extra tools on the bench!

With the bottom stretchers almost at (or at?) floor-level, you've created a nice little pen to corral the shavings etc., how do you clean it out? I'm talking as a luddite who sweeps up with a broom, I guess, & it's probably no problem if you own a decent vacuum system?

And a sticky-beak question - did you make that tool lying on the bench in one of the pics (the one with a hollow-chisel mortiser in a handle), & what do you use it for?

Cheers,

Thanks Ian


I have been liking the stop and tool holder middle section so far. But I can agree that something on the side of the bench would be quite nice in some circumstances. I think perhaps a small drawer or shelf could be quite useful as well. The tool wall where my hand tools live (strictly woodworking hand tools that is) is right next to the bench, so I am able to put the tools away as I go which is perhaps why it haven't been much of an issue for me.

You're quite right, the gap definitely isn't enough to get a broom under, but you are also right in the assumption of a vacuum. I Will sweep the shavings up with a broom that go into the big DC, and then I go over with the vacuum to get all the fine dust, and I can get under the bench then.

The tool with the hollow chisel attachment, is something I picked up from timbecon. It's made to work with the hollow chisels from a mortising machine. I got given a set of the chisels along with a drill press mortiser, however as most people will say, it was just terrible to use. So I wanted to find something to do with the chisels.

Because i'm lazy, I like to cut mortises quickly, and my preferred method at the moment is to hog out the bulk of the material with a forestner bit. And then I use the hollow chisels to tackle the edges and bits in between. It works quite well with a bit of persuasion from a mallet. I guess i'm kind of using them like a corner chisel?

Originally Posted by bubblegoose

......then I use the hollow chisels to tackle the edges and bits in between. It works quite well with a bit of persuasion from a mallet. I guess i'm kind of using them like a corner chisel?

Yep, I guess that's a good comparison. It's just one more way of skinning the cat. As long as you get clean, straight mortises, it's good - that's the only aim of the game.

I tried one of those DP mortising attachments many years ago & found it pretty hopeless, too. They obviously haven't improved any! On the other hand, the small mortising machines you can get now are very reasonably priced & quite adequate for a home workshop. I confess to doing all but very large or very small mortises by machine these days. It would take me a lifetime of practice to be able to match the speed & accuracy of the machine (or longer!)...

Cheers,

Originally Posted by IanW

Yep, I guess that's a good comparison. It's just one more way of skinning the cat. As long as you get clean, straight mortises, it's good - that's the only aim of the game.

I tried one of those DP mortising attachments many years ago & found it pretty hopeless, too. They obviously haven't improved any! On the other hand, the small mortising machines you can get now are very reasonably priced & quite adequate for a home workshop. I confess to doing all but very large or very small mortises by machine these days. It would take me a lifetime of practice to be able to match the speed & accuracy of the machine (or longer!)...

Cheers,

I can agree with that! Luckily at work I have access to a big mortising machine, so when I need a lot of them cut I will take the work in there. But I do have my eye on one of the smaller bench models.

I have recently had some spare time to work on finishing touches with the workbench. I have been using a scrap piece of ply that I shaped like a closed end wrench. With a cutout of the barbell end that I could slot over and tighten, but I had miss placed it and was fed up with always losing it, and also how slow the operation is, so I decided to do what I had originally planned and make some dedicated wheels that could bolt on.

Pretty simple construction, two bits of 17mm ply glued together. I rounded over the edges and gave them a good sand as well. I drilled and tapped some holes in the original handles and then bolted them on nice and tight.
IMG_4686.jpg IMG_4687.jpg IMG_4688.jpg

I have a video of the vice's operation now that it is fully functioning. Please forgive my poor filming and acting... hahah I was just trying to show how the vice bars are out of the way when not in use, and it's quick to fire it up and get it operational, and then quick to get back out of the way when done.






I am currently gluing up another chop for the vice, and I will cover that build and it's use in the next post.

Originally Posted by bubblegoose

I am currently gluing up another chop for the vice, and I will cover that build and it's use in the next post.

Famous last words haha.


I was about half way through making it, when I ended up getting a new job. Which involved packing up the work shop into a container (and other household items that don't really seem important haha) and moving states.
So now I am in Tassie, no real workshop space to speak of, but hopefully by this time next year I might have a place to move into...