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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bendigo Bob View Post
    Indeed, as I found out the hard way
    Hi Bob

    I made an assembly table about five years ago in a different manner:
    • frame was from an "office utility table" - 19 mm square steel tube - $10 for a pair at auction.
    • top was/is 25 mm MDF, drilled with 19 mm holes at 100 mm centres,
    • apron, one side only, was similar to top, also drilled,
    • the holes are for insertion of hold downs - I use quickgrip clamps,
    • applied three coats of polyurethane.


    Assembly table has proven extremely useful and top and apron are still flat - no bending or twists.

    However, MDF is very soft and it is now badly scuffed. Poly may have hardenned it a little, but it is still too soft.

    If I was doing it again I would want to make it harder; possibly:
    • coat it with epoxy rather than poly, or
    • make top and apron from something harder, possibly yellow tongue flooring.


    Hope this helps

    Cheers

    Graeme

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  3. #17
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    Thanks Graeme,
    I've got two of those office tables myself and both have sagged in the middle. Partly because of that and partly because of size I'm going with the 6x4 MDF torsion box build. I don't intend drilling any holes as I've made a solid workbench with all that.

    I'm pretty confident that the poly will hold up reasonably well. The secret is to thin it out 50/50 with Shellite or other high alcohol thinner. That way the poly soaks in instead fo forming a skin on top. It actually soaks in about 2 mm, that's quite deep really.


    Hadn't thought of Yellow Tongue but I don't think you get it in 4 ft width in any case

    will keep you posted, about to coat the underside of the torsion box today, then on to a base, combination of drawers, timber storage, plus need lift mechanism and castors for moving it.

  4. #18
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    Good Morning Bob

    Quote Originally Posted by Bendigo Bob View Post
    Thanks Graeme,
    I've got two of those office tables myself and both have sagged in the middle. Partly because of that and partly because of size I'm going with the 6x4 MDF torsion box build. I don't intend drilling any holes as I've made a solid workbench with all that.
    My office utility tables initially had 5/8" partical board plus veneer - much softer than MDF, and quite thin. I replaced it with 25 mm MDF. It has not sagged at all, and I would not expect such thick MDF to sag.

    I have found the holes on the assembly benches to be incredibly useful and are used much more than I anticipated. For example, I can do a glue up on an assembly bench and, while the glue dries, do something else on the work bench.

    Having said that, I don't think the holes would be a good idea on a torsion box - it might fill up with saw dust, etc !

    I'm pretty confident that the poly will hold up reasonably well. The secret is to thin it out 50/50 with Shellite or other high alcohol thinner. That way the poly soaks in instead fo forming a skin on top. It actually soaks in about 2 mm, that's quite deep really.
    Not my experience. Matt Estapol soaked into the MDF rather than sitting on the surface like a varnish. Diluted poly might soak in a little further, but the issue is surface hardness. I have been disappointed.

    Hadn't thought of Yellow Tongue but I don't think you get it in 4 ft width in any case.
    True; yellow tongue is 900 mm wide. Just checked the dimensions of my tables - top is 900 x 1200 and the apron is 300 x 1200. Should have remembered this as I used precisely half a sheet of MDF on each table.

    will keep you posted, about to coat the underside of the torsion box today, then on to a base, combination of drawers, timber storage, plus need lift mechanism and castors for moving it.
    Will continue watching, Bob. Lifting mechanism and castors to move your hefty bench plus drawers and stored timber will be something.

    Best success.



    Cheers

    Graeme

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post

    I have found the holes on the assembly benches to be incredibly useful and are used much more than I anticipated. For example, I can do a glue up on an assembly bench and, while the glue dries, do something else on the work bench.

    Having said that, I don't think the holes would be a good idea on a torsion box - it might fill up with saw dust, etc !
    All of Ron Paulk’s torsion box designs are holy, and they’re intended to be dusted with sawdust. However, his boxes are open all around (for useful tool storage while you work), so easy to get into with th vac once you’re done.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #20
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    On the 3.6 metre TB we built I put two coats of floor poly on it and that has worked out well. Torsion boxes as originally conceived are very stiff and super light for the job they do.
    CHRIS

  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    On the 3.6 metre TB we built I put two coats of floor poly on it and that has worked out well. Torsion boxes as originally conceived are very stiff and super light for the job they do.
    Yes, except for my whacky project under way

    The sheer weight was the thing I miscalculated Chris. Oh well, once it's in place that will be just a memory.

    As for the castors, I don't really anticipate a problem Graeme. My workbench is super heavy and the cast iron castors are holding up well. After all, they only engage the occasional time I need to move it for cleaning. Same deal with the assembly bench.

    (I do so wish I could go back in time and elect for some 9mm though Alas, time travel is reserved for Time Lords

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook
    Having said that, I don't think the holes would be a good idea on a torsion box - it might fill up with saw dust, etc !
    Quote Originally Posted by Bernmc View Post
    All of Ron Paulk’s torsion box designs are holy, and they’re intended to be dusted with sawdust. However, his boxes are open all around (for useful tool storage while you work), so easy to get into with th vac once you’re done.
    Thanks Bernmc

    Looks good and very functionable. I withdraw my above comment.


    Cheers

    Graeme

  9. #23
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    I made my outfield/assembly table using 16mm mdf and the Parf system for 20mm holes (MFT). I applied 2 coats of shellac and wax it on a regular basis. Been good for the past 18 months now.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bucky View Post
    I made my outfield/assembly table using 16mm mdf and the Parf system for 20mm holes (MFT). I applied 2 coats of shellac and wax it on a regular basis. Been good for the past 18 months now.
    Did you shellac before or after milling the top, Bucky? I’m concerned that anything dribbling into the holes made with the parf system will mean you can’t get the dogs in - tolerances are so tight.

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bernmc View Post
    Did you shellac before or after milling the top, Bucky? I’m concerned that anything dribbling into the holes made with the parf system will mean you can’t get the dogs in - tolerances are so tight.
    I shellacked before and was using it for many months before I drilled the holes. It is easy to remove glue and spills. Plus it get a fair bit of use and abuse.

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