Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 11 of 15 FirstFirst ... 6789101112131415 LastLast
Results 151 to 165 of 216
  1. #151
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    My money is on him too. Looking good there Boz. What is the plan for the end-cap and carriage vise, I'm keen to see it.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #152
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lambton, Newcastle, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    4,957

    Default

    I think I've solved your problem Groggy, your Labrajointer is realy only a watch dog not a working dog
    Instagram: mark_aylward
    www.solidwoodfurniture.com.au


    A good edge takes a little sweat!!

  4. #153
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    3,096

    Default

    Have fun flipping that B&stard!

    Yeah, if that top needs glueing you need to back off the plane blade a 1/2" or so.
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  5. #154
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    752

    Default





    Flipped the bench this morning. Ended up doing it my own. Was easier then I thought. But a little fore thought, and a little leverage and it was surprising easy.

    Groggy, haven't forgotten your question re: end caps. Will have a post of them soon.
    My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/

  6. #155
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Looking very nice Boz. Now the fiddly bits eh? Vises, chop, end caps, deadman, maybe a plane stop...

    I wish I was that far along

  7. #156
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    Cool

  8. #157
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    752

    Default

    Here's a sneak peak at the end caps. I had cut the end caps and the mortise a long time ago. Forsner drilling and hand chiseling.

    The end tenon I cut with circ saw, hand saw, and chisel. To make the matching staggered tenon I first tried a coping saw, and after breaking 3 blades.... I switched to drilling along my cut line and chiseling it out. It doesn't look pretty... a fair bit of blow out. But the tenon is a nice fit, with the right amount of mallet strength to align it.

    5" bolts and captured nuts. 5/16" bolts in 1/2" oversized slotted holes for expansion.

    It's not a perfect fit. Tricky using a circ saw. I plan on picking up a rabbet plane soon, so will wait to clean it up with that.

    The second end cap is tricky as it has the wagon component in it.
    My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/

  9. #158
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Couple A number of questions for you Dan:

    1. What is the distance from the end of the end cap tenon to the leg?

    2. How did you drill the dog holes all the way through (drill press?)

    3. Did you consider reversing the end cap bolts so the holes are not visible? i.e put slots under the table to enable them to slide in then the nuts go up a hole in the bottom ofd the end cap.

    4. No dovetails on the end caps?

    5. The slide on your wagon vice, is it rounded like the diagrams or, like mine, a new design that is square?

    6. Will you have a crotchet?

  10. #159
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    And another, it looks like the top of the dog holes are rounded by a router (minor burn below the top) - what radius bit did you use?

    The top is looking great, built like the deck of the USS Iowa

  11. #160
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    A note for anyone who purchased the wagon vise. There has been a change to the design and I have just noticed the plans have an amendment. The difference is the wagon block slide is now square, instead of rounded on one shoulder, and should be installed 1/8" lower. Using the old plans will result in an error.

  12. #161
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5,271

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    A note for anyone who purchased the wagon vise. There has been a change to the design and I have just noticed the plans have an amendment. The difference is the wagon block slide is now square, instead of rounded on one shoulder, and should be installed 1/8" lower. Using the old plans will result in an error.
    I trust you discovered the modification in time?
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  13. #162
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    I trust you discovered the modification in time?
    This is why I would not do any cutting off the plan. I wanted to be able to sit down and think it through with the vise in front of me. As I went through it step by step I picked up the changes. Then I started writing to them and went to their site to re-check the version of plans, it was different to the one I downloaded a short while ago. I'm assuming Dan has the original vise and plans as he got his a while ago.

  14. #163
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    752

    Default

    1. What is the distance from the end of the end cap tenon to the leg?
    Cap 1 - 5 1/2" - minimal distance. I actually considered having it flush with the base. I made it wider to accept the end cap and to fit a bench dog hole either side of it. Note I don't have bench dog's where the legs are.
    Cap 2 - ~21" - overhang for wagon, and to allow the casework to be held (eg. a blanket box held from the inside.)

    2. How did you drill the dog holes all the way through (drill press?)
    I used a 19mm forstner bit to drill ~8cm (maximal travel) on my drill press. Then used a 19mm spade bit in my makita power drill to finish the hole. (With a support piece underneath.

    3. Did you consider reversing the end cap bolts so the holes are not visible? i.e put slots under the table to enable them to slide in then the nuts go up a hole in the bottom ofd the end cap.
    No. I didn't think of that. Strange, I started of considering using wooden screw vices and making the entire thing old school and of wood. I swore I didn't want to use bolts but drawerbore tenons. Then I ended up putting coach screws in to hold the metal, and my sliding leg is half metal anywhere. I don't mind the look of the bolts.

    4. No dovetails on the end caps?
    I thought about it. To be honest with the tools and experience I have I thought that well done bolted endcaps would be nicer than poorly done dovetails. The other thing is that I can remove the end caps which I thought my be handy considering one has the wagon on it.

    5. The slide on your wagon vice, is it rounded like the diagrams or, like mine, a new design that is square?
    Round.

    6. Will you have a crotchet?
    I thought about it. I don't think I'll need it. I think the two leg vices should be sufficent. I have used bench dog holes in both legs to support the piece vertically. I included this even on the leg vice so that I wouldn't be tempted to rest the piece on the screw.

    And another, it looks like the top of the dog holes are rounded by a router (minor burn below the top) - what radius bit did you use?
    Yeah. I have a little be of a murphey moment with my router. I was working on a section and the bearing fell off. Which resulted in a much deeper cut. So I screwed it back on. Tightened it. Then it didn't spin and burnt the wood.

    I haven't flattened the top yet. So I did a quick round over to prevent chip out when planing. Easy enough. I will re-rout and sand at the end.

    To answer your question. I use a CMT 1/8 radius. I rarely take it out of my router and use it on nearly every piece I make.
    My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/

  15. #164
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BozInOz View Post
    Cap 1 - 5 1/2" - minimal distance. I actually considered having it flush with the base. I made it wider to accept the end cap and to fit a bench dog hole either side of it. Note I don't have bench dog's where the legs are.
    Cap 2 - ~21" - overhang for wagon, and to allow the casework to be held (eg. a blanket box held from the inside.)
    My bench dogs will be inset 95-100mm from the edge. Is that too far do you think? The leg is 85mm deep and the first beam is 95 deep, so I decided to put the dog holes in the second piece about 10mm in. Then I can drill dog holes in an unobstructed path, I want to use a 100mm spacing so there will be a few holes, plus 2 or 3 lateral rows as well to help hold wider work.

    I used a 19mm forstner bit to drill ~8cm (maximal travel) on my drill press. Then used a 19mm spade bit in my makita power drill to finish the hole. (With a support piece underneath.
    I'll need to drill 130mm so it looks like a mixture for me too. Fiddly, fiddly.

    No. I didn't think of that. Strange, I started of considering using wooden screw vices and making the entire thing old school and of wood. I swore I didn't want to use bolts but drawerbore tenons. Then I ended up putting coach screws in to hold the metal, and my sliding leg is half metal anywhere. I don't mind the look of the bolts.
    I am thinking of either doing the tenons like yourself or using a triple row of dominos. I have bolts exposed on my current bench and I'd rather hide them this time if possible.

    I thought about it. To be honest with the tools and experience I have I thought that well done bolted endcaps would be nicer than poorly done dovetails. The other thing is that I can remove the end caps which I thought my be handy considering one has the wagon on it.
    That's a good point. I'm not decided yet and keep changing my mind.

    I thought about it. I don't think I'll need it. I think the two leg vices should be sufficent. I have used bench dog holes in both legs to support the piece vertically. I included this even on the leg vice so that I wouldn't be tempted to rest the piece on the screw.
    I agree with you. I think I will just use a holdfast if needed.

    Yeah. I have a little be of a murphey moment with my router. I was working on a section and the bearing fell off. Which resulted in a much deeper cut. So I screwed it back on. Tightened it. Then it didn't spin and burnt the wood.
    Bugger, I had that happen as I finished an edge for a table. I won't repeat what I said at the time

    I haven't flattened the top yet. So I did a quick round over to prevent chip out when planing. Easy enough. I will re-rout and sand at the end.
    Great idea, consider it pinched

    To answer your question. I use a CMT 1/8 radius. I rarely take it out of my router and use it on nearly every piece I make.
    Ahh, that's a 3mm. I have 2mm and 4mm roundover bits, think I'll need to experiment. The 2mm on the dog holes and 4mm on the edges maybe.

  16. #165
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    752

    Default

    Experimenting with the vice fitting... seems simple enough...
    My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/

Similar Threads

  1. WIP Roubo bench
    By mic-d in forum FURNITURE, JOINERY, CABINETMAKING - formerly BIG STUFF
    Replies: 48
    Last Post: 30th January 2009, 04:34 PM
  2. Review of Dan's Shed
    By Tex B in forum THE GARDEN SHED
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 27th October 2006, 09:30 PM
  3. Blackbutt T&G
    By gemi_babe in forum FLOORING, DECKING, STUMPS, etc.
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 8th October 2004, 12:43 AM
  4. Saw for Milling Blackbutt in WA
    By vsquizz in forum TIMBER
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 14th June 2004, 01:16 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •