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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    484

    Default Design tips for Nicholson bench

    Hello again wise ones,

    After a long haitus I've finally got time to get back in the shed. Having schemed to build myself a proper workbench for several years now, I think it's time to do that and stop procrastinating by collecting and restoring tools.

    Until now I've been dead keen on building a Roubo style (having been sucked in by Chris Schwarz' excellent workbench book). However, I have finally realised that this just isn't an appropriate choice for a hand-tool only project, unless you have access to really big timbers (I don't). Laminating 2x4s for a benchtop requires too much work and too many clamps to be practical with the tools I have.

    I've realised that an altogether more sensible option is the trusty Nicholson design. I didn't bother investigating this option initially because it seems fairly flimsy - I actually purchased an old one and then swiftly resold it because it was too lightweight (among other problems). Other problems are that it doesn't like holdfasts (having a fairly thin top) and makes it difficult to use dogs or F clamps because of the deep apron on the front.

    Particularly interesting is Bob Rozaieski's interpretation, which I like very much for its simplicity: Logan Cabinet Shoppe | Hand Tool Woodworking Blog and Podcast

    I think that the basic design can be improved upon by adding a thicker top (say 2" thick) to accept holdfasts, adding lots of bearers, bottom stretcher and shelf for mass. I can't imagine needing to bend down under the apron too much if I just use dowel dogs with a press-button that can be inserted and removed from the top (as I currently do).

    Does anybody here use a Nicholson-style bench? What design tips can you add? What problems does the design have? And: is there any advantage to having skewed legs?
    Cheers,

    Eddie

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    Eddie,
    Paul Sellars has a good utube series on building one with a thick top.
    They were the traditional joiners bench and my dad and grandad used them. The deep front apron providing the rigidity against wracking. Usually had a leg vice but later on ready made vices like record were used. Seldom had more than a 2'' thick top and holdfasts did not figure in the plan. My dad was a 3rd generation joiner/carpenter and got handed down tools from his dad and grandad before that. Not a holdfast in sight. However with a thicker top then holdfasts are an option if that is how you want to go. I just got a pair a couple of months back and am liking them. My old bench is of that basic design with a top about 35mm pine. It is solid enough but as said clamping is not the easiest. I got some longish F clamps and solved that problem.
    I do think however the design was a way of making a rigid bench with the minimum amount of timber. If there is a thick top then perhaps the Rubo style bench is a better more versitile option.
    I have attached episode 1 of the Paul Sellers build and you can follow the rest from there.
    Regards
    John
    How to build a workbench - (Part 1) Laminating the top - with Paul Sellers - YouTube

    PS 2'' is a bit on the lean side for holdfasts but you can glue on a block below where the holes go.

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