Thanks Thanks:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 82
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    686

    Default

    Cookie, you are correct. The issue on this one is probably that it was clamped one side only, but also could have been that the thicknesser bed was not quite parallel so the timber is clamped perfectly together and has now formed a radius as the timber was not uniformly thick.

    It's no biggie to fix, Lance. You might need to fix it first before you go on to the sub frame, so you've got a level surface for the mortices, etc...

    Episode 11. Flattening the workbench

    You do want a flat top (out of wind and no cupping/crowning) - makes it hard to get anything flat and straight if the bench isn't flat first, especially on thin stock that flexes under pressure.

    Looks good - less than a term to almost finished. You should get there easily.

    Keep up the good work.

    Cheers,

    eddie

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
    Posts
    1,488

    Default

    I don't own a scrub plane but I do have an electric plane. I've used it to roughly flatten wide boards with great success. I then finished with hand planes.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    Doesn't look hard in the video.. ill get the bench flat hopefully within the next few days.Thanks Eddie for providing the info

    Cheers lance

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mount Colah, Sydney
    Age
    72
    Posts
    923

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Zsteve View Post
    for me, hand planing a bench flat like that would be much quicker than routing it - and much quieter.

    each to their own.
    Easy to say

    Obviously you had not met the 100+ year old Blackbutt? framing timber I made mine with.
    Took the edge of planes in minutes, and cost me 3 25mm router bits even to router plane.

    regards
    Alastair

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    slow progress this week managed to get the long stretcher done this afternoon and tomorrow im dressing my last leg

  7. #21
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by teakman View Post
    slow progress this week managed to get the long stretcher done this afternoon and tomorrow im dressing my last leg
    sounds like a hospital ward
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    sounds like a hospital ward
    Haha yeah it does..

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    G'day

    I had a busy week bought a new car unfortunately no time for the workbench but i have the whole week so i can focus on my workbench woohoo plenty to do this week
    -flattening bench top
    -laminated end stretcher
    -drill out mortise

    When i was marking out the position of my mortise on the leg i couldn't decide if i should have the long stretcher flush with the leg any suggestion?

    I practiced drawboring for the first time surprisingly simple I used a 1.6 mm off set towards the shoulder but i found when using the drawbore pin to line the hole up it never had to be wedged through the tennon it just inserted easily, so next time i will try using a 2mm off set . Any suggestions on the appropriate offset taking into consideration the size of this joint and i will be using 2 drawbore pins on one joint

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
    Posts
    978

    Default

    I've just been through the draw boring thing with my bench frame and received lots of advice from Wouldwood. For blind draw boring on big blind M/T joints a 2mm offset was about right using 1/2" dowel about 1" from the shoulder.

    WW recomended 10mm dowel about 15mm from the shoulder, and my feeling is that this would have worked better with a 1-1.5mm offset. Being the first time I'd done it and not having practiced before hand like you I've probably over done it somewhat.
    "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
    - Douglas Adams

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    Thanks Dave ill give that another shot 15mm from the shoulder hopefully give me a tighter joint.Your bench is coming along nicely i noticed your long rails are flush to the legs and your short aren't seems like a good idea.How far off the ground is your rail? i was planning for mine to be about 5 inches.
    cheers lance

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    47
    Posts
    978

    Default

    Only the front stretcher is flush as this will form part of the work holding functions of the front of the bench, the rear stretcher is inset about an inch. Same with the short ones, these are centred in the legs because they don't need to serve any other function.

    Ground clearance is 150mm all round. The idea was to make it a little more than neccessary becuase I've made the bench height at the upper most limit of the scale for someone my height. If I decide it's too hgih I have the option to cut the legs shorter and still maintain clearance.
    "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
    - Douglas Adams

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    4,770

    Default

    Lance, for the draw boring, also check your dowel size. Some of the dowel I had was marked as 10mm but was actually 3/8". 3/8" is 9.525mm so a bit of slop in a 10mm hole.
    I used 10mm dowel, some of it hand made with a dowel plate , and a 1.5 to 2mm offset with the bore located 15mm from the edge. Worked extremely well. Make sure your dowels are tapered as well. They need to gradually pull the tennon in. I broke a couple of dowels on test joints that had too much offset.
    If you do get it wrong on the final assembly you can always glue a dowel in the tennon and redrill it in the right spot.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    76
    Posts
    19,922

    Thumbs up

    That will certainly be one nice, solid bench!! Like the detail in your WIP Teakman!!

    Keep it coming!

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,880

    Default

    Rather than draw boring why not go for tusk tennons and have the practically of knock down assembly also. I did a barbeque table this way and found that every few months the wedges need a tap with a mallet but when that is done it is solid as a rock. Must be changes in humidity that work them loose.
    Regards
    John

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Western Australia
    Age
    77
    Posts
    3,679

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by teakman View Post
    Doesn't look hard in the video..
    Groggy probably lost the product of 10 big Mac dinners doing that ....

    Teakman I applaud your approach with hand planing on obtaining a true flat surface.
    There is nothing more satisfying in hand planing a surface to arrive with a true flat surface definitiion.

    cheers
    Johnno

    Everyone has a photographic memory, some just don't have film.

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. MASSIVE gaps
    By ubeaut in forum DOORS, WINDOWS, ARCHITRAVES & SKIRTS ETC
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 16th November 2008, 07:21 AM
  2. MASSIVE plane - how used?
    By Ron Dunn in forum BOAT BUILDING / REPAIRING
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 24th April 2008, 06:21 PM
  3. The Titan is massive!
    By OGYT in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 23rd February 2008, 11:56 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •