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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    Thanks for all the advice,will be taking everything into consideration
    I think i will keep to drawboring idea as i already bought the drawboare pin from carba tech, i did notice dowels sold werent 10mm exactly so i tought of buying a dowel plate ($70) and make my own 10 mm dowls..but instead i saved money a bought a 9.5mm drill bit to fit the 9.5mm tasi oak dowels sold at bunnings... seemed like a cheaper option...

    Ive been reading been reading through groggys threads taking me a long time to get through it all but im half way there.. and pick up some of his good ideas along the way.I like the idea for the clamp storage but as im only starting my woodwork hobby i dont even own a clamp but in time i will make my collection.so must i prepare for the furtuer an incoperate a clamp storage area? ie i will have a bottom storage shelf.

    I also thought of buying the wagon vise from benchcraft but seemed overpriced i currently only have a wooden leg vise will this be suffiecent or is it wortrh it to fork out more money for this end vise? seems tempting...

    cheers Teakman

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by John Saxton View Post
    Groggy probably lost the product of 10 big Mac dinners doing that ....
    Maybe 8. Depends on the timber. Jarrah works up a sweat.

    Quote Originally Posted by teakman View Post
    Ive been reading been reading through groggys threads taking me a long time to get through it all but im half way there.. and pick up some of his good ideas along the way.I like the idea for the clamp storage but as im only starting my woodwork hobby i dont even own a clamp but in time i will make my collection.so must i prepare for the furtuer an incoperate a clamp storage area? ie i will have a bottom storage shelf.
    My clamp shelf is under the bench because I have a space problem in my workshop. If I don't squirrel stuff away I have no room for new tools

    As for the workbench thread, keep reading, there is a short quiz at the end

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    686

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by teakman View Post
    but instead i saved money a bought a 9.5mm drill bit to fit the 9.5mm tasi oak dowels sold at bunnings... seemed like a cheaper option...
    The dowel's 3/8", Teakman. Surely the school has a drill - the teacher should be able to regrind it for you to a brad point bit.

    Quote Originally Posted by teakman View Post
    must i prepare for the furture an incorporate a clamp storage area? ie I will have a bottom storage shelf.

    I also thought of buying the wagon vice from benchcraft but seemed overpriced i currently only have a wooden leg vice will this be sufficient or is it worth it to fork out more money for this end vice? seems tempting...

    Marking's in August, by the time the vice gets in, it'll be June/July. I'd wait, but that's just me. Plan for it later, by all means, but I wouldn't put the vice or the shelf in now.

    I'd stick to your original drawing and fix the shelf in later (ie: after it's marked.) If, as a result of your ongoing evaluation of your design, you decide you want to put one in, I'd do it only after you re-jig your design properly. Late changes to design lead to unnecessary pressure and frustration, but if it shows you are able to evaluate as you're going and amend plans accordingly, then this may improve your result. Not an easy call.


    Cheers,

    eddie

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Massachusetts, USA
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Teakman, have you done the drawboring yet?

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    686

    Default

    Hi All,

    Getting on to the business end of the HSC - 5 months left, with about 60% of the coursework to go, and assessment tasks piling up and taking every spare moment of Teakman's time, if his experience is what I go through every year.

    I'd imagine that Teakman's up to his armpits in alligators, but will post occasionally.

    Good luck with it all, TM.

    CHeers,

    eddie

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    Sorry for the late update guys i was just flooded with a lot of work..Ive still been working on the bench though..

    I'm currently boring the mortise holes have done about 2 legs tommorw i will do the others, im hoping by next week i will start draw boring cant wait then ill post some more pics.

    Cheers

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    I got one mortise done today...had some trouble drilling out the mortise holes which is 66 mm deep, im currently using a 32mm Forster bit from carba tech just a cheap one $12 i find it a slow process and after every drill i need to sharpen it and theirs plenty burning..

    Whats the best option to bore 32mm holes( i cant afford to but a new bit for $60..)

    What is a easier and faster method: rounding the tenon or squaring a mortise by bashing out the ends..

    cheers teakman

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    G'day

    Ive finish drilling my mortises and i dry fitted the base structure, every mortise and tennon joints fits well, the strectcher is flush with the legs im happy to move onto drawboring once im finished with todays jobs:
    1. Sanding the legs
    2. Choping out the mortise for the parallel guide
    3. Drill out vise hole
    4. Drilling out X3 19mm holes in the right leg for the hold downs
    5. Marking out deadmans grave
    6. Flatten top
    7. Trimming tops ends and cleaning saw marks
    Cheers
    Teakman

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Massachusetts, USA
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Teakman, don't forget to wax the dowels before drawboring. Are they going to be blind or through?

  11. #40
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    9,417

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by teakman View Post
    G'day

    Ive finish drilling my mortises and i dry fitted the base structure, every mortise and tennon joints fits well, the strectcher is flush with the legs im happy to move onto drawboring once im finished with todays jobs:
    1. Sanding the legs
    2. Choping out the mortise for the parallel guide
    3. Drill out vise hole
    4. Drilling out X3 19mm holes in the right leg for the hold downs
    5. Marking out deadmans grave
    6. Flatten top
    7. Trimming tops ends and cleaning saw marks

    Cheers
    Teakman

    You must be happy - getting near completion
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Very happy! i reckon towards july 10-15 i will be complete

    Have flattened the top looking good tommorow i will put on sanding sealer and the traditional wax, then let the drawboring begin
    I have upload some pics on drilling out leg vise hole and a few others

    Tommorw i will add some pics drawboring and the flattened top.

    Cheers
    Lance

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    13,315

    Default

    Some very good work.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Castle hill NSW Australia
    Age
    31
    Posts
    42

    Post

    G'day All

    Just a quick update on my progress Ive started draw boring went well,Ive sanded down my legs and top, the top i coated with clear sanding sealer and i drilled and chopped out the mortise for the leg vise guide in the leg all im doing now is draw boring.

    Any suggestions on the top finish i had in mind, sanding sealer clear,danish oil then traditional wax is that a bad mixture? Must i not coat it with danish oil?

    I will try on a practice piece see if i like the look.

    Cheers
    Teakman

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    752

    Default

    Looks fantastic. Mighty project that will serve you for many years.

    As for a finish. On my roubo I opted for organoil which is pretty much just a danish oil and it works well. I think with benches you want a simple finish that can be re-applied after rough work or re-flattening. For a sealer I would only use shellac based sealers. Shellac then oil are a good combo. Not so keen on the wax because I don't like film finishes on benches.
    My blog: ~ for the love of wood ~ - http://theloveofwood.blogspot.com/

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    Classy work there Teakman

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