Thread: Mcjing Wonder dogs

Dave, I make my own out of 19mm dowel, or 22mm broom handle, turned down to fit the dog hole.

The idea is for the bearing face to be angled from top to bottom a few degrees. If it's vertical then the job can rise when you apply pressure.

Originally Posted by Pat

Dave, I make my own out of 19mm dowel, or 22mm broom handle, turned down to fit the dog hole.

The idea is for the bearing face to be angled from top to bottom a few degrees. If it's vertical then the job can rise when you apply pressure.

The face of these ones are angled down. Not sure if I'm using them wrong

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What happens when you have the face angled up?

Originally Posted by Christos

What happens when you have the face angled up?

Same thing. I have tried multiple different ways also taken the whole thread out and reversed it so that it was angled up.

Tried loose dog holes and tight dog holes. I feel like I have tried everything.

Just the result of a cheap knock off?

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I've never used these so apologies if I'm totally out of order. The face of the piece of timber you have attached to the end of the dog looks like it is angled up, may just be a parallax error. However, if that is correct what happens if you turn that piece around?
I'd be surprised if Max from McJing didn't take any comments you have on these on board.

Originally Posted by aldav

I've never used these so apologies if I'm totally out of order. The face of the piece of timber you have attached to the end of the dog looks like it is angled up, may just be a parallax error. However, if that is correct what happens if you turn that piece around?
I'd be surprised if Max from McJing didn't take any comments you have on these on board.

Thanks fit the input.

I don't think that is the case. But even if it is I have tried 3 different pieces of timber, all same thing happens in that it lifts up once I start tightening the dog.

Has anyone used veritas' version? Or experienced anything like this with a tail/wagon vise?

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My eyes may be deceiving me but the threaded post looks like it is not perpendicular to the bench face as though the dog hole it is in is either not truly vertical or is too big allowing the threaded post to move off the vertical.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

My eyes may be deceiving me but the threaded post looks like it is not perpendicular to the bench face as though the dog hole it is in is either not truly vertical or is too big allowing the threaded post to move off the vertical.

Totally agree. The dog holes are too loose and under pressure the dog tilts back lifting the work.

Would it help if you lifted where it pushes against the work piece up at high as it will go so the dog is per tilted in the hole before tightening.

I have a poor mans tail vice and find there is a tendency for the clamped board to lift. Thats the reason dogs have an angled holding face. I overcome this by giving the work a slight tap down as I slowly tighten up on the screw. Another thing I have found the more extended the screw then the worse things are. How far the dogs tilt back in the holes will also affect performance.
I have not used a wonder dog but I can not see how that would not work as well as say a Veritas one as they are about the same thing for the same job.
Regards
John

I concur with John, with the Veritas version the board will lift if over extended. Allow about 25mm.

If this means you have to drill more dog holes, then do it, it's only a bench.

I drilled 2 new holes both tight and close together And it still lifts

Found that there is a little play in the thread . If I push down on the workpiece And Lift the thread at the same time It holds OK .But only if the end is square

If the wood is not square at the end it won't hold at all , But which is unfortunate because I normally square the ends last.

Oh well

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I think those type of dog attachments are for working on panels or assembled joinery, for it kind of defeats the purpose
of planing if your causing the timber to bend.
You only need a stop for planing the kind of thing your doing.
I'm guessing you are using the dog clamp/device because you have reversing grain.
If it is the case, you need to have a plane designated for cap iron use only...ie just one hairs camber
as per David W's (Weaver's) instructions on youtube.
Learn how to set the cap iron for it to have influence , You will never experience tearout again, ever.

Good luck
Tom

Hi

Just a thought.

How about trying a new block at the end of the thread. Just as a test, remove the original brass(?) block and try any piece of metal about the same size, BUT drill the hole for the threaded shaft higher up on your test block. This may help cant the "new" block downward and help hold the wood down (closer to the bench).