Thread: MDF Work Bench: Help Please

Give all surfaces a coat of polyurethane that will seal it from atmospheric moisture problems.

Go for chipboard(32mm,16mmx2... its a lot cheaper) or ply(15~18mm) on the top as mdf will sag if not supported every 500mm or less... especially on work tops that can have heavy weights put on them.
Any decent thick coating of paint will do the trick enough to seal the moisture out, hint seal the whole top 360° before installing it.

Thanks guys.

I am thinking 18mm MDF for all the bases and uprights. However for the top I am thinking 18mm mdf with a 19mm Chipboard panel above. Screwed from the bottom. However the carcass would still be MDF, would the chipboard screwed to the top prevent the sagging you think?

Originally Posted by timber_quality

Hi everyone. Just need some advice.

I have just moved into a new house which was a nice size garage and I now have the joy of making suitable work benches.

The main wall is 5.2m long and i would like to make a bench for this entire length. All the magazines I have looked at seem to use MDF or Plywood for the benches, I am on a bit of a budget so this will be a good idea.

Just wondering if anyone can help me out with the suitablility of MDF? I know water destroys it however what will be the best finish to help prevent this? Also what thickness do you think would be best. And i am hoping just to place the benches on treated pine or something along those lines to keep it off the ground. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers

I will be covering all edging with solid timber to prevent moisture entering the MDF.

Hi Timber Quality. Make a framework of 2x1 pine at about 500 centres glued and screwed. Glue and screw even 12mm MDF to the frame and it will be strong and inexpensive. I have been using something similar for a few years now really testing it. (I could tap dance on this bench if ever I feel the urge). I used 25mm steel for the legs but I'm sure 2x1's joined at a 'T' (glued and screwed) at around 1000mm centers would be quite satisfactory particularly if you installed some underbench shelving that would help brace some/all of the legs. Edge MDF with hardwood strips. Attach 2x1 to the wall with Dina bolts or similar to support the back edge. I have not sealed my top and it's doing ok.

Good luck.

I'd use mdf if it gave me a sense of rhythm. Always wanted to tap dance
Jim

If you are on a budget take a look at particle board flooring. Works out more cost effective than sheets of the same. You can double up for the top.

The green one from Bunnies is cheep and already supposedly "waterproof"

TQ, mdf cost(should do) more than chipboard.

Another couple of possibilities.

reject timber resawn and joined into a panel. Take a look at studleys reject hardwood sales.

seconds quality ply. If you have a factory nearby it's usually about half price.

try locall businesses/factories. Often stuff comes packed in ply or mdf and they skip it. Resawing it you might get your top for a few hours work and no $. Might get some packing crate studs for the legs also.

2c

Instead of buying top quality MDF from bunnies or mitre10, try one of your joinery shops who use alot of Melamine/Melteca panels. Usually they have cover sheets that they sell for $10-20 dollars. They wont be perfect, but they will already have a melamine/melteca surface on it and you would just need to seal the ends.

Thanks guys. plenty of ideas there for me.

With the chipboard I was worried about how to join the sides to the top. Does chipboard tend to split if screwed? Or is that more likely with MDf?

Thanks

Our workbenches at work have 32mm MDF tops. We sealed them with water based polyurethane (about the only good use for the stuff) Because the water based dries so quickly it doesn't soak in like oil based. Two coats and they take a hammering!!!

Biggest problem with 32mm is we could only get 3600 x 1200 sheets at 109kgs each Very heavy!

Yeah I have just finished an office desk made from mainly 32mm Tassie Oak veneered MDF. Finished product weighs well over 150kg I would say. Was a real struggle moving pieces due to the weight. Think I might stay away from that thickness this time. lol.

I've found that MDF can be used quite successfully for a bench. Here's mine which I've been using for about 10 years and it's stood up well to plenty of hard use in my garage





It's made from three layers of 18mm MDF, lipped individually with softwood and biscuits then glued together. I wax it regularly. It's remained dead flat and is a solid as a rock.

Cheers

Paul