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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    And it looked so easy on the video.
    I think, as your safety adviser, it would be remiss of me not to suggest that you invest in a decent upcut spiral bit. At least for hogging the guts out. Even modify the template and use a template guide with the USB to do the final pass. We don't want to be calling you 'Lefty' from now on.
    Most woodwork I attempt generally looks easier on the video. Thanks for your concern re safety- it's not misplaced.

    Decent ? What would be the recommendation?

    yep I could run with a wider template and use the template guide. I did buy a CMT template bit however.

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  3. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pac man View Post
    ....Ok for the template bit i had it running at 19000 rpm approx.
    For the 1/2 inch spiral 18000 rpm approx.....
    To me these sound high. I thought the Triton had a max speed of 22000 rpm, so I did I quick search and according to their web site it is 20000 rpm. Could have been changed since I purchased my router.

    One rule of thumb or at least a loose guideline is larger bits slower speed and smaller bits higher speed. This rule does not take into account how hard/fast you push wood through the router.

  4. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pac man View Post
    The length of the timber is 1.4 m. Only way to do this on a table would be to cut it down which I would rather not do.
    Couldn't you do it without the fence on the table? (it's a bearing bit)
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  5. #79
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    I am not an expert with the router but I find it is one of the most enjoyable electric tools. I only have one and most of the time it is mounted in the table. For small repetitive jobs it is a very accurate once the fence and guide is setup.

    When I use this out of the table it can be a little tricky and time consuming to setup but once everything is setup and secure it gives a good result.

    I normally take small shallow cuts(2-3mm) when using smaller bits and a little deeper(5-6mm) when larger diameter bits are used. I have tried it a little deeper to test the limits and generally find some equilibrium.

    Of course there is another choice / option.

  6. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Couldn't you do it without the fence on the table? (it's a bearing bit)
    Not sure as in this example the template is on top of the work and the bearing is at the collet end not the end of the cutter. When I invert as in put it on the router table the template would be on the table and I would be routing by feel.

  7. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pac man View Post
    Not sure as in this example the template is on top of the work and the bearing is at the collet end not the end of the cutter. When I invert as in put it on the router table the template would be on the table and I would be routing by feel.
    Yeah, that's right, but I think you'd actually have better feel. Let the bearing do the job for you.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  8. #82
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    I guess it's an option.
    I went over the road to the routing forum to ask the question so that may provide some options as well.

  9. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Yeah, that's right, but I think you'd actually have better feel. Let the bearing do the job for you.

    If it is one pass like a channel then I would agree, but this is hogging out material and you have a tendency to jump depending if you are doing a climb cut when hogging the material out. That being said I have hogged out material with the router in the table but this is between two stops and the fence. The final pass was only 1mm and avoided the climb cut.

  10. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    If it is one pass like a channel then I would agree, but this is hogging out material and you have a tendency to jump depending if you are doing a climb cut when hogging the material out. That being said I have hogged out material with the router in the table but this is between two stops and the fence. The final pass was only 1mm and avoided the climb cut.
    Nah, hog out as he has been, but with shallow passes, then revert to the table for the last widdle bit.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  11. #85
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    You are better off with multiple 1/4" passes for the depth than trying it all in one go. Start off with a central dado.

    Then take it gradually to the edges, leaving a final pass of about 1-2mm.

    That's how I did mine (no routing details, I'm afraid) ... http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...ngaBench2.html

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #86
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    Your photo of your router on the blog appears not to have a template guide insitu. Is that a template bit in the collet?

  13. #87
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    So after a steep learning curve the dog strip is glued on.
    image.jpg
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  14. #88
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    Well done Paul... ...

  15. #89
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    Absolutely luvverly......but you should lose points for having matching clamps

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  16. #90
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    Paul its looking tops

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