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  1. #91
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    End caps done - well almost need some fine fitting. Photos to follow.

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  3. #92
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    There are two end caps similar to Groggys appoach, but look mum- no visible hardware.

    Leg vise end
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  4. #93
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    Tail vise end
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  5. #94
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Well done Paul, Long road you've traveled to get this far....Bench is looking good!! Peter

  6. #95
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    Paul

    Don't worry, two years is not a long time. My bench is still seasoning in the stack .

    It's looking good. The end result will make it all worthwhile.

    Regards
    Paul

    PS. I have been in hibernation for the cold months (2013 and 2014) and didn't pick up on the thread .
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  7. #96
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    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Don't worry, two years is not a long time. My bench is still seasoning in the stack .
    Indeed, an excellent and significant step from being "in the ground (and upright)" to "on the ground (and horizontal)".

    "In the shed" (definitely not on it) is when credibility starts to kick in . (mine is, ahem, "under the house")
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
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  8. #97
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    Mine is in storage

    Are they barrel bolts holding it on? Nice idea.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  9. #98
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    They are barrel bolts - well spotted + 1 length 10mm all thread, washers and nuts.
    I saw the idea with Groggys bench with the bolts then saw a post how a guy did it this way on an o/s forum.
    The slots allow the nuts to go on the all thread and enough room to swing the spanner to tighten.

  10. #99
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    Whilst procrastinating thinking about the dovetails it suddenly dawned on me that I am not sure how to do the following as I really haven't done this stuff before and after the time investment don't want to bugger it up.

    1. Plane the top - it's reasonably flat courtesy of Andy's thicknesser but has a half mill hump in the middle. There is some really curly grain here with potential for tear out. Do I do the planing across the top thing at 90 degrees with the Jack then the jointer or just the smoother with the grain with a low angle blade with a 50 degree bevel angle.

    2. Epoxy dents , bug/ worm holes in the top. Obviously before the planing. Seems easy enough, any pit falls?

    3. Building the base so that it fits the top without accumulated error getting in the way

  11. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pac man View Post
    Whilst procrastinating thinking about the dovetails it suddenly dawned on me that I am not sure how to do the following as I really haven't done this stuff before and after the time investment don't want to bugger it up.

    1. Plane the top - it's reasonably flat courtesy of Andy's thicknesser but has a half mill hump in the middle. There is some really curly grain here with potential for tear out. Do I do the planing across the top thing at 90 degrees with the Jack then the jointer or just the smoother with the grain with a low angle blade with a 50 degree bevel angle.

    2. Epoxy dents , bug/ worm holes in the top. Obviously before the planing. Seems easy enough, any pit falls?

    3. Building the base so that it fits the top without accumulated error getting in the way
    Morning Paul progressing well.

    This may be rough but a half mill hump in the middle of what size/area? In the past when I have done found this sort of thing on work I was doing with minimal tools etc I have done the following.

    If the area is say small 6" square or such I have used a block plane removed light cuts and worked just the highest point/s. Then grab next plane etc etc.
    I have also used a cement float with sand paper attached using grits of 60 down to 100 due to the grain, then used the orbital sander.
    Worst case a 60 grit disc on a drill or grinder type disc sander for grain which was like cement and plane wouldn't look at it.

    My favourite tool for this is my old body file or rasp it usually is or was first cab off the rank for roughing down.

  12. #101
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    A HNT smoother will sort that out. No hurry. Take your time and check progress often.
    I suppose a LN will do or a bedrock if you must set for a light cut.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  13. #102
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    Plane (BUP jointer or smoother) will have to wait for the completion of the epoxy experiment.
    Megapoxy H was much more runny than I thought it would be. Oh well this time should seal the fibres for next time. I will need to use a thickening agent any recommendations or just wood flour? I am also not sure about the proprietary tint used - black to mimic mineral deposits. Be interesting to see. It's the underside.
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  14. #103
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    Light cuts. 62 degree angle of approach with a bevel up jointer. Working both straight across Eg perpendicular to the bench and at a 45 degree angle resulted in this.
    Help.
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  15. #104
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    Go with the grain and lighten the cut. What happens?
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  16. #105
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    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
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    Skew the plane?

    How big is your biggest scraper?
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
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