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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post


    Decent job.

    Regards from Perth
    dare I say -- one big dovetail with a bit of decoration ?

    as you said at the beginning, OTT, but it still looks very very noice
    regards from Sydney

    ian

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  3. #77
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    now about those bolt holes
    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    you need some of these



    or in your case to cover the bolt heads

    Last edited by ian; 6th Feb 2012 at 10:33 PM. Reason: fix spelling
    regards from Sydney

    ian

  4. #78
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    Default Re: Roubo Bench Issues and Questions

    Looking good! Why is the end cap a different thickness to the top? Won't that get in the way or get caught and splinter?

  5. #79
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    Hi Greg

    The Benchcrafted tail vise is designed for a bench with a 4" thickness (or greater). A 4" thick end cap is needed so that the handle/wheel can be attached below the bench top.

    Of course not all benches are 4" thick. The Benchcrafted tail vise is still capable of being used on benches with a thickness of even 2". This would require a spacer under the rails of the vise to create sufficient depth, and then a 4" deep end cap for the wheel.

    My bench top is 3 1/2" thick, which is why the end cap is a little deeper. I do not imagine that this will create a problem.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  6. #80
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    now about those bolt holes
    Hi Ian

    I am in two minds about the bolt holes. One side says the bench is a tool and the bolts are where one adjusts the end cap (which is necessary in this design). The other side wants to build furniture and hide the bolts. I like your idea. I think, however, should I go down this path, I would fit matching plugs and make the bolts completely disappear.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewr79 View Post
    Looking very nice Derek. How far off finishing do you think you are?
    Hi Andrew

    I am hopeless in judging time for tasks. My wife says I must double or treble anything I imagine!

    I have the base parts all cut, so that is the next to do.

    Then the leg vise, and the sliding jack.

    Finally, all the dogs (without them the tail vise does not exist).

    All then (who said "finally"? ) there are a few other bits and pieces before I am ready to quit.

    Three weeks into the build. I'd like it done in three more.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Hi Ian

    I am in two minds about the bolt holes. One side says the bench is a tool and the bolts are where one adjusts the end cap (which is necessary in this design). The other side wants to build furniture and hide the bolts. I like your idea. I think, however, should I go down this path, I would fit matching plugs and make the bolts completely disappear.
    Hi Derek

    Rather than trying to make them dissapear, I'd make the covers a feature and add some extra ones

    Maybe insert a cribage board to cover all three?
    a narrow backgammon board would be just too much
    regards from Sydney

    ian

  9. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post

    Can I ask for a piccy of the bottom to see which bolt hole method you went with? Please?
    +1 for a piccy of the underside for the bolt hole method used.

  10. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pac man View Post
    +1 for a piccy of the underside for the bolt hole method used.
    ...in post #70, he said that he used ordinary coach bolts with prettied up ends.

  11. #85
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    I replaced the coach bolts. I was not happy with the idea of relying on end grain to support the threads.

    I really do know know why - call it a senior moment - but I drilled out the first underbench bolt hole with a router. Noisy, the smell of wood burning, and s-l-o-w! Ugh!

    The light came on, and I switched to a 12" brace with 3/4" bit.



    It was amazing how much faster - and effortless - this was. The European Oak is so much softer than Jarrah. Once the hole is to depth, chisel a flat side for the nut.



    The bolt hole is slightly oversized (for expansion) and is slightly deeper than the underbench hole for ease of tightening.



    Here are the first two holes ...



    Handpower rules!



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I replaced the coach bolts. I was not happy with the idea of relying on end grain to support the threads......
    Derek - I heartily agree - I would certainly not expect end grain to cop the sort of forces you could potentially apply with that set-up. I assumed you had inserted a cross-grain plug when I read your first post. You could also have drilled a 3/4" or 1" hole in the right spot and inserted an appropriately-sized piece of dowel, which then serves as a cross-grain 'nut' for the coach bolt. I've used this method in similar situations, when it would have been too much hassle to use bolts. That would probably have given you more than adequate holding power, but since it's still easy to do, the bolts will give you peace of mind.

    The coach screw & dowel 'nut' method has the advantage in being very easy to make, and it should also remain easy to undo way in the future, when bolts & nuts may have rusted up. Your nut slots don't look big enough to get a spanner on the nut - I presume you are relying on the nice fit to stop them spinning during tightening or loosening? I am probably fussing about nothing, but when I recently unbolted the end cap on my bench I had a bit of bother with one nut that didn't want to move easily, & had to jam it with a screwdriver to prevent it from spinning. They have had 25 years, in a damper climate than yours, though I did oil the threads generously during original assembly, which might be a good idea in your case, too, given the high tannin (acid!) content of Oak.

    It's coming along nicely......
    IW

  13. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnredl View Post
    ...in post #70, he said that he used ordinary coach bolts with prettied up ends.
    uh senior moment simply didn't compute

    Derek, thanks for the piccies of the changed setup, that's something like I thought you might done initially
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  14. #88
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    Your nut slots don't look big enough to get a spanner on the nut - I presume you are relying on the nice fit to stop them spinning during tightening or loosening? I am probably fussing about nothing, but when I recently unbolted the end cap on my bench I had a bit of bother with one nut that didn't want to move easily, & had to jam it with a screwdriver to prevent it from spinning.
    Hi Ian

    No, I cannot get a spanner on the (internal) nut. I used a screwdriver to wedge it while I tightened the bolt.

    You make a good point about being able to undo the nut (to re-tighten) if it rusts and cannot turn. I had simply planned on lubricating this area with silicon grease (SuperLube). It might be a good idea to widen the area alongside the nut to fit a spanner. I doubt that I will go to the trouble of doing so at this stage. It can be completed if needed at a later time.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  15. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Hi Ian

    No, I cannot get a spanner on the (internal) nut. I used a screwdriver to wedge it while I tightened the bolt.

    You make a good point about being able to undo the nut (to re-tighten) if it rusts and cannot turn. I had simply planned on lubricating this area with silicon grease (SuperLube). It might be a good idea to widen the area alongside the nut to fit a spanner. I doubt that I will go to the trouble of doing so at this stage. It can be completed if needed at a later time.
    alternatives would be
    1) tighten the bolt enough to get an indentation in the end grain, disassemble the knut and bolt and use a dab of epoxy to fix the knut to the end grain
    2) insert a wodden clothes peg to act as a permanent spanner for the knut
    regards from Sydney

    ian

  16. #90
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    Hi Ian

    If the bolt/nut rust and weld to each other, bits of wood will not aid in undoing their union. If - and only if - it becomes necessary to re-tighten bolts, getting a spanner in would be the only working solution. Hopefully silicon will deter rust.

    I have not read anything along the lines of these posts on forums anywhere else.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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