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  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Hi Ian

    If the bolt/nut rust and weld to each other, bits of wood will not aid in undoing their union. If - and only if - it becomes necessary to re-tighten bolts, getting a spanner in would be the only working solution. Hopefully silicon will deter rust.

    I have not read anything along the lines of these posts on forums anywhere else.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek - it's not a huge issue, but I have had to assemble & dis-assemble benches more times than I thought I would ever need to. Occasionally, I've struck trouble. Some have yielded to a screwdriver jammed in very hard, but for a couple I had to dig out the slot enough to bring a spanner bear. I can assure Sydney Ian that it takes more than wooden spanners to hold a determined nut! So now I either make the slots spanner-sized to begin with, or make barrel nuts, which are far and away the best solution, as long as your drilling is spot-on!

    I usually need to tighten the bolts after a few moisture cycles, but they seem to settle down after one or two tightens and don't loosen any more after that. You don't experience the RH extremes we cop in Brisbane, and may well find they stay tight, & it's a total non-issue......

    Cheers,
    IW

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  3. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    alternatives would be
    1) tighten the bolt enough to get an indentation in the end grain, disassemble the knut and bolt and use a dab of epoxy to fix the knut to the end grain
    2) insert a wodden clothes peg to act as a permanent spanner for the knut
    Why am I spelling "nut" with a k?

    Agree, those suggestions are not that flash
    regards from Sydney

    ian

  4. #93
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    Actually Ian, the "wodden" clothes peg might just do the trick.

    ... where does one acquire woddens?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #94
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    Default Thought that would be obvious!

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    ... where does one acquire woddens?
    In a wodden shop. Where else?
    Regards, FenceFurniture
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  6. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Actually Ian, the "wodden" clothes peg might just do the trick.

    ... where does one acquire woddens?
    if my spelling was only a little better you could follow these directions:

    1. Travel EAST along the Great Eastern Hwy to Southern Cross
    2. Turn right onto the Coolgardie-Esperance Hwy, Coolgardie 164.4km
    3. Turn left onto Eyre Hwy, Norseman 1197.7km
    4. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Eyre Hwy, Ceduna 0.2km
    5. At the roundabout take the 1st exit onto Eyre Hwy, Ceduna 0.3km
    6. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Eyre Hwy, Ceduna 223.1km
    7. Turn left onto Eyre Hwy, Kyancutta 88.4km
    8. Turn right onto Eyre Hwy, Kimba 0.1km
    9. Turn left onto Eyre Hwy, Kimba 129.2km
    10. Continue along the RAMP ramp, Port Augusta West 0.2km
    11. Veer left onto Eyre Hwy, Port Augusta West after ramp 24.9km
    12. Continue along Victoria Pde, Port Augusta West 3.1km
    13. Veer left onto Port Wakefield Rd, Port Augusta 205.1km
    14. Continue along Port Augusta-Port Wakefield Rd, Port Wakefield 71.4km
    15. Veer left onto the Northern Exp ramp, Waterloo Corner 0.8km
    16. Continue along Northern Exp, Virginia after ramp 20.6km
    17. Continue along Sturt Hwy, Gawler Belt 179km
    18. Veer left onto the RAMP ramp, Barmera 0.4km
    19. Continue along Sturt Hwy, Barmera after ramp 14.4km
    20. Veer left onto the RAMP ramp, Monash 0.2km
    21. Continue along Sturt Hwy, Monash after ramp 13.6km
    22. Turn right onto Sturt Hwy, Renmark 137.8km
    23. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, Mildura 3.6km
    24. Turn right onto Sturt Hwy, Mildura 0.7km
    25. At the roundabout take the 1st exit onto Sturt Hwy, Mildura 2.2km
    26. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, Buronga 75.9km
    27. At the roundabout take the 1st exit onto Sturt Hwy, Euston 78.1km
    28. Continue along Market St, Balranald 2km
    29. Turn right onto Sturt Hwy, Balranald 129.8km
    30. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, Hay South 170.1km
    31. Turn right onto Sturt Hwy, Gillenbah 93km
    32. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, Wagga Wagga 3.3km
    33. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, East Wagga Wagga 1km
    34. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, East Wagga Wagga 2.7km
    35. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Sturt Hwy, East Wagga Wagga 39.2km
    36. Continue along the Hume Hwy entrance ramp, Tarcutta 139km
    37. Take the LEFT FORK onto Barton Hwy Exit, Yass 2.2km
    38. Continue along Barton Hwy, Yass after ramp 45.5km
    39. At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Barton Hwy, Crace 3.7km
    40. Turn right onto the Gungahlin Dr ramp, Mitchell 0.5km
    41. Veer left onto Gungahlin Dr, Kaleen after ramp 5.4km
    42. Continue along Caswell Dr, Aranda 2.8km
    43. Continue along Parkes Wy, North West Rural Canberra 0.2km
    44. Continue along Tuggeranong Pky, Weston Creek 6.9km
    45. Take the ramp to Hindmarsh Dr Exit, Lyons 0.4km
    46. Turn left onto Hindmarsh Dr, Lyons after ramp 0.7km
    47. Turn right onto Eggleston Cr, Lyons 0.9km
    48. Turn right onto Macfarland Cr, Chifley at Melrose Primary 0.6km
    49. Turn right onto Wilsmore Cr, Chifley 0.2km
    50. Arrive at Wilsmore Cr, Chifley


    regards from Sydney

    ian

  7. #96
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    Oh Derek... you and your wheel reinventing!

    Rather than create potential problems in the future, why not go the traditional/obvious route and use square nuts fitted into appropriately-sized slots beneath the bench top?

    Most decent fastener suppliers carry square nuts. Antique beds were all held together at the corners with 3/8" or 1/2" bolts through the legs and square nuts in slots cut into the rails. I've had occasion to use a rattle gun to undo stuck bed bolts and the square nuts always stayed put in their slots.

    If you can't find square nuts locally, they're easily made from a length of 1" x 3/8" (25 x 10) flat bar...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  8. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    ...... why not go the traditional/obvious route and use square nuts fitted into appropriately-sized slots beneath the bench top?
    Hmmm, it hadn't even occurred to me to make something like that, WW. A simple solution & much easier to make than barrel nuts, and while barrel nuts require a single hole, you do need the accuracy of an SAS sniper to line up the bolt hole & nut hole exactly. Those large square nuts would be a little more forgiving, but do the job excellently well. That's what I'll use next time I build a bench (which may be never, but I can't promise that. ).

    Thanks for bringing that to my attention!

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    ... you do need the accuracy of an SAS sniper to line up the bolt hole & nut hole exactly.
    A rare earth magnet stuck on the end of a dowel would be your friend there.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  10. #99
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    Hi WW

    A square nut is a great idea. Thanks. Now why did that not occur to me ...?

    I am going to reinvent the wheel here a touch, however. Better still would be a strip of steel (say 2" long x 3/4" wide) with the hole tapped at the one end. The strip will extend down into the hole. The "top" will be flush with the under surface of the bench. This way it is easy to hold the nut (no spanner required) both to fit it and to re-tighten it.

    Thanks for inspiring the idea.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Better still would be a strip of steel (say 2" long x 3/4" wide) with the hole tapped at the one end. The strip will extend down into the hole. The "top" will be flush with the under surface of the bench.
    Just watch out for the steel if you ever have cause to flatten the under side of the bench again!

    If you tapered the ends of the bolts (ŗ la old bed bolts), then you wouldn't experience any problems aligning the nuts as long as they're within 1/8" of where they should be.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  12. #101
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    Found a bed bolt...

    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  13. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    A rare earth magnet stuck on the end of a dowel would be your friend there.
    WW - I was talking about drilling the holes, & getting the axes of the barrel nut hole & the bolt hole to intersect perfectly. I can't see how a magnet & piece of dowel is going to help that procedure, can you enlighten?

    I can see how the pointed end of the bolt would help quite a bit when assembling - another good idea. That makes two good ideas I've picked up today. Stop now, that's enough, or my head will start to hurt!

    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    WW - I was talking about drilling the holes, & getting the axes of the barrel nut hole & the bolt hole to intersect perfectly. I can't see how a magnet & piece of dowel is going to help that procedure, can you enlighten?
    No, I'm Irish.

    Quote Originally Posted by IanW View Post
    I can see how the pointed end of the bolt would help quite a bit when assembling - another good idea. That makes two good ideas I've picked up today. Stop now, that's enough, or my head will start to hurt!

    Cheers,
    Your head hurts?
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  15. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Hi WW

    A square nut is a great idea. Thanks. Now why did that not occur to me ...?

    I am going to reinvent the wheel here a touch, however. Better still would be a strip of steel (say 2" long x 3/4" wide) with the hole tapped at the one end. The strip will extend down into the hole. The "top" will be flush with the under surface of the bench. This way it is easy to hold the nut (no spanner required) both to fit it and to re-tighten it.

    Thanks for inspiring the idea.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Hmmm that's a great idea Derek - a nut with a built in spanner! I might just use that on my bench

  16. #105
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    Default End Cap Bolts - Another Alternative

    Hi Derek,Yep, good idea that, some great minds about. In the dim recesses of my mind I now recall I had decided on a similar idea for my bench, some 5 or so years ago now, (and still no bench I might add). My thought was a bit 'quick and dirty', I intended to have the strip of bar iron maybe 1 inch wide and the full depth from under surface to just beyond centre, drill a hole in it adn weld a nut to the strip. The bar iron would be both the spanner and a washer for the nut. The slot was going to be a little larger than the iron so that it easily slipped in, and if ever needed, easily removed. No tapping holes, just a couple of welds on the nut flats. See, I told you it was quick and dirty, but hey that is just me. Cheers Pops

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