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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    370

    Default Roubo workbench build

    Well I've no idea if it's an authentic Roubo, the design is based on several YouTube videos that are "kinda" Roubo.

    I'm pretty slow in the workshop because novice and everything is portable so half my time is packing stuff away or setting it up.

    I expect the workbench will be finished around Mar/Apr 2017.



    ^ Trying and smoothing the boards ready for glue-up using my Luban No.7 and Veritas low-angle jack, here using the standard straight edge PM-V11 iron although I'm waiting on delivery of the toothed iron from Carbatec.



    ^ Hodge-podge of clamps with the heavy-lifting done by four Besseys. These quick-release and K-body clamps are no good for glue-ups at this scale - handy for smaller glue jobs and work holding but I need something more ...



    ^ After leaving glue overnight, running the laminated beam through the DeWalt thicknesser; I got this thicknesser a month ago after umming and aahing for a year about what to replace the crappy second-hand Ryobi unit I had and whether I'd be happy with the DeWalt or had to go all out on a beast. So far, very happy with the DeWalt ... and it's portable, which is one of my main criteria.

    Wasn't particularly happy with my glue job, not enough squeeze-out. I applied the glue to 100% of the two surfaces of each board with a thick rubber squeegee so not a coverage issue; for the next set of four boards I'll dish out along the long grain so the mating surfaces are slightly concave or at least definitely not convex.



    ^ Will require further work with the No. 7 plane once all assembled but at the moment the benchtop will be around 85mm thick.



    ^ After the first glue-up I jumped on the Timbecon website and bought eight new heavy duty F clamps; this should do the trick!



    ^ Using some spare lengths of T-track as winding sticks.



    ^ Making sure the mating surfaces are at least flat if not a little concave in the middle for better gluing when the faces are clamped together.



    ^ Planing straight down the middle with my HNT Gordon smoother mostly as it has the narrowest blade of my smoothers so will create a slight valley along the length of the beam



    ^ This little gadget from Veritas is a little pricey for what it is, but so worth it if you want to use card scrapers and bowed out a bit more to ride the valley and make sure there's no planing marks, tearout or knots standing proud that might interfere with the gluing,
    Last edited by NathanaelBC; 30th December 2016 at 08:38 PM. Reason: Hadn't finished

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Townsville, Tropical North Qld.
    Age
    76
    Posts
    556

    Default

    Pulling up a stump to follow your build NathanaelB,
    cheers, Ian
    "The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot.. it can't be done.
    If you deal with the lowest bidder it is well to add something for the risk you run.
    And if you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better"

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    370

    Default



    ^ This glue-up was significantly messier, using a paintbrush and about $15 worth of glue (if I mathed right, that's over 1.18 square metres) ... hopefully studying the squeeze-out on this will help me calibrate the most economical amount of glue to apply that'll yield a satisfactory join.

    Also, even though I vacuumed the garage floor the beams picked up bits of grit that then made it into the glue; hopefully that won't be a problem, being pine the clamping pressure should just embed them into the timber rather than cause problems with the glue joints.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,645

    Default

    You can never have too much glue. Don't stress about grit being on the glue surfaces. It's not unheard of to use salt or fine sand sprinkled onto the wet glue faces prior to positioning and clamping. The fine grit beds itself into both mating surfaces and prevents the boards from slipping and sliding as you bring up the clamping pressure. It works quite well

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Rockhampton QLD
    Age
    68
    Posts
    2,335

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    Got my chair out and watching with interest.

    Ross

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    650

    Default

    Cant resist a workbench build..

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Millmerran,QLD
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,098

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    Watching with interest.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,402

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kuffy View Post
    It's not unheard of to use salt or fine sand sprinkled onto the wet glue faces prior to positioning and clamping. The fine grit beds itself into both mating surfaces and prevents the boards from slipping and sliding as you bring up the clamping pressure. It works quite well
    That's a trick I've never heard of before; I'll keep it in mind.

    Beer and a bucket of chicken on standby; watching this build with interest.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Imbil
    Posts
    1,167

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    I am in too watching with interest, on the subject of glue when I first started my apprenticeship (about let me see 45 years ago) one of my first glue job's I was told by one tradesman that you knew you had enough glue by all the squeeze out and by another that the glue was supposed to hold the timber together not apart so some where in between I guess is the correct amount. Enjoy the build and the result.
    Regards Rod
    Rod Gilbert.

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