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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    Sydney
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    Default Time for a Permanent Solution

    OK, so i want to build a permanent unmovable workbench.... I'm currently rocking a quick and dirty bench on castors (that i'll eventually shrink into an outfeed table or glue up table) but i want to build sometime permanent first.

    I'm not really keen on copying an existing design, so i'll be coming up with something myself (and knowing me, i'll try to include some whiz bangery in there somewhere).

    My first question... most likely of many... is what to use for the frame, legs etc? I don't want this thing to move (is racking the word?) so i'll be trying to join it all with tennons, and i don't have anything lying around to use so i'll be purchasing the timber from Mitre10 (as i have a voucher and a mate who works at one so free delivery!). Would hardwood be better or just some decent sized pine sleepers for legs and structural pine for the frame?

    I'm not overly concerned about looks, i'm hoping the things i make ON it will look good though. So i want this thing to be damn sturdy....

    Oh second question, through or blind tennons.... is one stronger/sturdier than the other? and should you add screws/nails to tennons or not? I doubt they'll be perfect, but i'd want them strong.

    Thanks in advance for the advice. I'll post my concept design when i've thought of it and have sketched it out... I have a rough idea, but not sure if it's doable for my current skill set (or lack there of).
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    If you are not worried about looks and want to save time cutting all those large joints then what about using this type of structural connection?
    I used this on my lathe bench and am really impressed with how strong and firm the join is.
    The lathe rattled and shook that bench a fair bit over a couple of years (much more than a conventional workbench) and it was only framed up from 70 x 35 mm pine but it was easy to tighten up the bolts - only had to do it once before SWMBO took over that bench for her lapidary work.

    Woodwork Bench design issue.-screen-shot-2017-03-06-7-18-11-am-png

    As far as a solid base goes you can still use castors for if and when you want to move the bench around but also drill holes to the underside of the legs so that you can epoxy something like 20 or 25 mm nuts into the holes.
    Then add 20 or 25 mm bolts - you can lower/raise the bolts up high enough to lift the castors off the floor to move the bench.
    As long as the bench has enough weight it should not move.
    Feet.jpg

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Thanks for the advice Bob. I'll definitely look into the leg solution...

    The reason i wanted to predominantly use tenons was i wanted the practice... i haven't used a mortise and tennon join since i was in high school (and not very successfully i might add...)

    One of my plans for the future is to make a dining table for the house, and i wanted to make it in a way that showcased the joinery, so I need to practice practice practice!!!

    I'm leaning towards using pine for the legs/frame because its soft so easy to practice on, and its cheap so if i stuff it up it won't cost me a fortune to get some more... the only down side is that it won't add much weight... My garage floor is painted concrete so it'll slide a bit if its not heavy enough... or do you think putting it on some rubber mats or carpet tile will help to keep it steady while planing/sawing etc?
    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    Dibbers

    my first bit of "advice" is don't try and reinvent the bench. It's almost a truism that your first bench is really only practice for your second, which is practice for your third.

    IMO a bench built is not the place to practice joints -- the completed bench is where you do your practice.

    There are lots of resources around for building a bench, but for a first bench it is very hard to go past the knock down Nicholson designed by Christopher Schwarz https://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/0...son-workbench/ quick, simple, low cost and you can use regular nuts with washers if you don't really need the knock down feature.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  6. #5
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    Jul 2017
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Dibbers

    my first bit of "advice" is don't try and reinvent the bench. It's almost a truism that your first bench is really only practice for your second, which is practice for your third.

    IMO a bench built is not the place to practice joints -- the completed bench is where you do your practice.

    There are lots of resources around for building a bench, but for a first bench it is very hard to go past the knock down Nicholson designed by Christopher Schwarz https://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/0...son-workbench/ quick, simple, low cost and you can use regular nuts with washers if you don't really need the knock down feature.
    I understand what you're saying. I've already gone down the quick and dirty path with my temporary bench... there isnt even glue on the thing, its all held together with screws.

    The only concern with the bench in the link is the lack of storage... im working in very a small space so there needs to either be storage for tools or materials underneath and be as multifunctional as i can get it. I was going to design it with a view of adding drawers later, build an extention to make it a support for a contractor table saw etc...

    To be honest, whilst i love the construction aspect of woodwork, i get a real kick out of tge design process. Im less likely to replicate someone elses design as id rather list what im wanting the peice to achieve and design a solution... then try and build it to my design. I actually toyed with the idea of hidden clamp storage along the back of the bench... essentially turning the back portion of the bench into a vertically openning draw with clamps hung on it... it raises and lowers with a motor and closes flush with the bench top... a bit beyond my capabilities at the moment but id still like to give it a go eventually.

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    ​Coming Up With Complex Solutions to Non-Existent Problems Since 1985

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Hi Dibbers,

    This is my first bench, it's also my latest bench I made it 12 odd years ago and it still serves me well It's Douglas Fir and Jarrah, has dog holes all over it and has two vices. Suits me well and I like it. I've made everything from boxes to frames to chairs and tables using it as my work site. Love it!Work-bench.jpgWorkbench_1.jpgWorkbench_2.jpg


    Regards,

    Rob
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  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,790

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dibbers View Post
    My garage floor is painted concrete so it'll slide a bit if its not heavy enough... or do you think putting it on some rubber mats or carpet tile will help to keep it steady while planing/sawing etc?
    Since the photo of the foot above was taken I have replaced the floor with painted concrete and it still does not move. My bench is 90x90 pine legs and 70 and 90 x 35 mm pine lower frame. The top has a recycled jarrah frame and cross members and a ply top. It does have vertical drawers and a fair few tools in there so that adds to the weight as well.

    I made that bench as a temporary upgrade from a "two cardboard boxes and an old door" bench about 11 years ago. I keep meaning to make a new one but I don't do enough WW to warrant doing that at the mo. Most of the time my WW bench gets used for motor repairs/mods and testing and electrical work for the mens shed

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Bundaberg
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    When I built the frame for my bench I used 90 X 45 construction pine which I planed and thicknessed to 70 X 35; for the legs these were glued together to make 70 X 70. The frame was assembled with just glued half lap joints. It's only 1300 long and 700 deep but is rock solid. I can move it around the shed if I absolutely have to but it's a heavy swine.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dibbers View Post
    The only concern with the bench in the link is the lack of storage... im working in very a small space so there needs to either be storage for tools or materials underneath and be as multifunctional as i can get it. I was going to design it with a view of adding drawers later, build an extention to make it a support for a contractor table saw etc...
    adding storage to almost any bench can be as trivial as some plastic storage crates sitting on a piece of chipboard supported by a pair of longitudinal runners bolted or screwing on through to a set of fitted and dovetailed drawers as found on a Shaker workbench.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dibbers View Post
    To be honest, whilst i love the construction aspect of woodwork, i get a real kick out of tge design process. Im less likely to replicate someone elses design as id rather list what im wanting the peice to achieve and design a solution... then try and build it to my design.
    in that case I suggest you get hold of a copy of Schwartz's book Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use (Revised Edition) link to ebook version www.shopwoodworking.com/workbenches-revised-edition-ebook

    A quick read will save you from going down too many blind rabbit holes
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
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    4,887

    Default

    The bolted joint shown by BobL is one of the best joints you can use in a bench to prevent wracking and it also lets you take the thing apart if you ever have to move it. Just moved mine from the garage down to the "woodwork shed" and I am so glad it was built as a knock down.
    By all means use M&T for the transverse frames joining the legs but for the main longways frames that prevent the bench from wracking I don't think that bolted joint can be beaten. The other vital element in preventing wracking is the main longways frames need to be quite deep in section (at least near the joint). For my frames I glued extra wood on to increase the frame shoulders to 190mm.
    As to storage under the bench as long as a shelf can be put over the lower frame than that is a start. storage units with drawers or whatever can be added at a later date. Be aware that clamping and using holdfasts require some free space just under the bench top. At least enough to allow for the holdfast leg.
    Anyhow I'll settle in and watch the build.
    Regards
    John
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