Thread: traditional carpenters bench , what finish to use !

Originally Posted by Pratty

Why the one part varnish though, is that to give it some colour depth ?

Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy

Ya know...I'm not actually sure .....

I remember either reading or watching a documentary about a Sam Maloof recipe for finish.

1/3 Tung Oil
1/3 Varnish (poly...)
1/3 Turpentine

I hope I did not get this wrong. The tung oil can be replaced by using Linseed oil as this is normally a little bit cheaper.

The varnish acts like a harder skin(not really a good explanation) where the oil would penetrate into the wood and bring out the grain patten. The turpentine just thins it out to make it easier to apply.

It is the combination of all three together that has the following properties, easy to apply, dries faster, and brings out the grain.


Should add that the workbench that I have just have linseed oil slopped on. The mixture above would be good for finished pieces going into the house. Unless you have plans to move the workbench inside the house.

Originally Posted by Pratty

Pit, question, when you drilled your bench dog holes, did you use a template and guide for the holes or free hand drill them ?

With the tail vise dog holes I used a block with hole and a straight piece of wood as a backrest, the size of the block and position of the hole in the block determines the spacing, for the spacing I went a bit less than the vise travel, I used the router with a 1/2" straight bit and just plunged it straight down, once the first hole is done the dog goes into the hole in the block and into the first hole then the router is just butted upto the block and back rest and plunge and repeat, you could do something like this for a grid pattern of holes, even if you just use this method to mark the holes and then complete the depth with forstener bit and drill.
tail vise dog holes.jpg



Pete

Perfect, ask the right questions and you get the right answers, right on a mission now, plan in mind, now just need to get home so i can crank back into it. thanks Pete

Originally Posted by pjt

With the tail vise dog holes I used a block with hole and a straight piece of wood as a backrest, the size of the block and position of the hole in the block determines the spacing, for the spacing I went a bit less than the vise travel, I used the router with a 1/2" straight bit and just plunged it straight down, once the first hole is done the dog goes into the hole in the block and into the first hole then the router is just butted upto the block and back rest and plunge and repeat, you could do something like this for a grid pattern of holes, even if you just use this method to mark the holes and then complete the depth with forstener bit and drill.
tail vise dog holes.jpg



Pete

Is it worth paying the extra 40% premium for the anti-mould boiled linseed oil from bunnings?

Finally figured out how to put photos on here lol, well this is the start of the process, the bench wood in question is american white oak, as you can see, a lot of prep work with smaller pieces but you never look a gift horse in the mouth when its given to you, this top must weigh close to 60KG
As you can see, the jarrah on the trailer is the frame work, very slow going as very seasoned timber.
i eneded up making the timber vice out of the oak as well, laminated two pieces then trimmed to fit, what a bugger it was fitting that vice upside and working in reverse, a lot of checking before making a cut and drilling a hole.
wil post some more shortly .
i decided to use the jarrah as a edging a well to take the knocks, as well using bisciut's in the joins i also inserted very deep tasmanian dowel in the bench as well for added strength, i generally over engineer things as i have a reputation fro breaking things

Salvage jarrah , frame in progress

Originally Posted by Sam50

Is it worth paying the extra 40% premium for the anti-mould boiled linseed oil from bunnings?

Personally never heard of a anti-mould boiled linseed oil, but I live a sheltered life.

Originally I acquired boiled linseed oil and the raw linseed oil. The raw linseed oil is yet to be opened and that is about 4 years ago. The main reason I use BLO is to apply a coat to tool handles including the garden tool handles.

I would say no to the anti mould. Probably more for timber surfaces that will live out in the weather or may be subject to dampness or condensation.

Originally Posted by Pratty

Salvage jarrah , frame in progress

I'm a bit confused, you have one set of legs then what looks like another set of legs, are they for something else?
Also, it looks like there's no allowance for the top to expand/contract with the tie brace being bolted across the width of the top?



Pete

The piece you are looking at is the feet of the legs laminated,
i was working off the drawings in the book, i was concerned if i didnt brace it the whole width the top may have a tendancy to start to curl up, what would you have done or suggestions considering wherei am now with it ?

Originally Posted by pjt

I'm a bit confused, you have one set of legs then what looks like another set of legs, are they for something else?
Also, it looks like there's no allowance for the top to expand/contract with the tie brace being bolted across the width of the top?



Pete

Nice bench. Keep the pics coming

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

The principle of the idea sounds solid so im going to follow this recipe for the frame first and see if i like it then go onto the bench top, cheers.

Originally Posted by RedShirtGuy

Ya know...I'm not actually sure
It's a recurring recipe I found suggested here and used it without question.
At a guess I'd say it's to make the finish a bit harder and to seal the timber off (rather than just repel with the BLO). It might make it a bit a too smooth and slippery though.

Originally Posted by Pratty

The piece you are looking at is the feet of the legs laminated,
i was working off the drawings in the book, i was concerned if i didnt brace it the whole width the top may have a tendancy to start to curl up, what would you have done or suggestions considering wherei am now with it ?

Feet I see it all now!!

All you need to do is elongate the bolt holes in the top cross piece, if you allow at least 2% (for every 100mm width allow 2mm) you should be right, I would leave the center hole as is and elongate each consecutive hole towards the outside, give yourself 2% each side of the existing hole (unless you know the current moisture content) doing this allows the top to move relative to the cross piece while still being held flat, tighten the center bolt tight but all others are just nipped up.

It's all looking good!



Pete

Thanks heaps for the info pete, now i understand the concept of it, and the reasoning behind it.

Originally Posted by pjt

Feet I see it all now!!

All you need to do is elongate the bolt holes in the top cross piece, if you allow at least 2% (for every 100mm width allow 2mm) you should be right, I would leave the center hole as is and elongate each consecutive hole towards the outside, give yourself 2% each side of the existing hole (unless you know the current moisture content) doing this allows the top to move relative to the cross piece while still being held flat, tighten the center bolt tight but all others are just nipped up.

It's all looking good!



Pete