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3rd July 2015, 02:53 PM #16
Ya know...I'm not actually sure
It's a recurring recipe I found suggested here and used it without question.
At a guess I'd say it's to make the finish a bit harder and to seal the timber off (rather than just repel with the BLO). It might make it a bit a too smooth and slippery though.Every time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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3rd July 2015, 05:59 PM #17
I remember either reading or watching a documentary about a Sam Maloof recipe for finish.
1/3 Tung Oil
1/3 Varnish (poly...)
1/3 Turpentine
I hope I did not get this wrong. The tung oil can be replaced by using Linseed oil as this is normally a little bit cheaper.
The varnish acts like a harder skin(not really a good explanation) where the oil would penetrate into the wood and bring out the grain patten. The turpentine just thins it out to make it easier to apply.
It is the combination of all three together that has the following properties, easy to apply, dries faster, and brings out the grain.
Should add that the workbench that I have just have linseed oil slopped on. The mixture above would be good for finished pieces going into the house. Unless you have plans to move the workbench inside the house.
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4th July 2015, 12:14 AM #18
With the tail vise dog holes I used a block with hole and a straight piece of wood as a backrest, the size of the block and position of the hole in the block determines the spacing, for the spacing I went a bit less than the vise travel, I used the router with a 1/2" straight bit and just plunged it straight down, once the first hole is done the dog goes into the hole in the block and into the first hole then the router is just butted upto the block and back rest and plunge and repeat, you could do something like this for a grid pattern of holes, even if you just use this method to mark the holes and then complete the depth with forstener bit and drill.
tail vise dog holes.jpg
Pete
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5th July 2015, 01:14 AM #19
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5th July 2015, 01:50 AM #20Sam50 Guest
Is it worth paying the extra 40% premium for the anti-mould boiled linseed oil from bunnings?
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6th July 2015, 02:49 AM #21
photos of WIP
Finally figured out how to put photos on here lol, well this is the start of the process, the bench wood in question is american white oak, as you can see, a lot of prep work with smaller pieces but you never look a gift horse in the mouth when its given to you, this top must weigh close to 60KG
As you can see, the jarrah on the trailer is the frame work, very slow going as very seasoned timber.
i eneded up making the timber vice out of the oak as well, laminated two pieces then trimmed to fit, what a bugger it was fitting that vice upside and working in reverse, a lot of checking before making a cut and drilling a hole.
wil post some more shortly .
i decided to use the jarrah as a edging a well to take the knocks, as well using bisciut's in the joins i also inserted very deep tasmanian dowel in the bench as well for added strength, i generally over engineer things as i have a reputation fro breaking things
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6th July 2015, 03:01 AM #22
Frame work WIP photos
Salvage jarrah , frame in progress
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6th July 2015, 04:16 PM #23
Personally never heard of a anti-mould boiled linseed oil, but I live a sheltered life.
Originally I acquired boiled linseed oil and the raw linseed oil. The raw linseed oil is yet to be opened and that is about 4 years ago. The main reason I use BLO is to apply a coat to tool handles including the garden tool handles.
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6th July 2015, 07:02 PM #24
I would say no to the anti mould. Probably more for timber surfaces that will live out in the weather or may be subject to dampness or condensation.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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6th July 2015, 11:57 PM #25
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7th July 2015, 01:27 AM #26
The piece you are looking at is the feet of the legs laminated,
i was working off the drawings in the book, i was concerned if i didnt brace it the whole width the top may have a tendancy to start to curl up, what would you have done or suggestions considering wherei am now with it ?
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7th July 2015, 07:56 AM #27
Nice bench. Keep the pics coming
Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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7th July 2015, 09:15 PM #28
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7th July 2015, 10:18 PM #29
Feet I see it all now!!
All you need to do is elongate the bolt holes in the top cross piece, if you allow at least 2% (for every 100mm width allow 2mm) you should be right, I would leave the center hole as is and elongate each consecutive hole towards the outside, give yourself 2% each side of the existing hole (unless you know the current moisture content) doing this allows the top to move relative to the cross piece while still being held flat, tighten the center bolt tight but all others are just nipped up.
It's all looking good!
Pete
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7th July 2015, 10:48 PM #30
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