Well after the slightly embarrassing learning curve with my previous attempt at a "Jack-Bench", I've decided to make a traditional workbench (definitely this time, no changing my mind - promise!). I've decided on a Holtzapffel/Roubo hybrid type of thing.

The finished size is not massive, about 1800 x 650. This is mainly because I am using 1/2 of our 2 car garage as my workshop, and, this size will allow me to move around it, and add a bandsaw without making things too difficult to work in.

I have made a little progress. I bought some Jarrah joists that came from an 80 year old house (salvage/demolition yard). I ran them through the electric joiner a little while ago, so they are "square-ish and smooth-ish". Yesterday I laminated 2 together to give a total dimensions of 130 x 90, which I am using for the 4 legs (2 glued up pieces with 2 laminated boards in total - 4 bits of wood!).

Then today the moon and planets aligned...I found myself with 4 hours to work in the workshop! This is quite a feat as anyone who works shift work, has 2 young kids and a shift working wife will tell you. Still perfect time to start planing. Spent quite a bit of time - about 3 of those hours with my Carter #7 squaring and smoothing enough to give me the sense of achievement. The pics show the 2 130x90 that I am going to cut in half to make 4 legs. The rest of the lower frame will be made up of the Jarrah/Kauri that is sitting next to them and on the floor in Pic 6.

For the top, I'm using our old Blue Gum outdoor table (spouse would prefer I make a new one after the workbench) - see pic 5. Each side is 1800x550x55 and needs flattening. I was planning on planing flat and glueing together to make 1800x550x100. Not quite as wide as I was planning, so I was going to add another 50x100 Blue Gum around the outside to give a total of 650 wide.

Pic 1 & 5: My improvised bench dog worked, but can't wait to have a proper setup.


Now...I am after some advice...

1. What is the best method of attaching the top to the base, so that I can ? I assumed a tenon, but leave it dry or glued? Would prefer a removable top if possible, but will be guided by advice.

2. Bottom rails (90x65 big enough?) - I was thinking about making through tenons and holding them in place with old railway spikes (I found lots!). Will this look silly and be impractical? Otherwise I was thinking of something like a wedged/keyed tenon.

3. Any foreseen problems with the Blue Gum top? I was thinking of adding square dog holes into the 50mm skirt that goes around the outside?

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the bottom rails
180 x 30 should be big enough -- given that these rails are there to resist racking, I'd be a little concerned that 90 x 65 rails were not tall enough
then again if your bench has top and bottom rails maybe not an issue.
I'd go with wedged tenons rather than railway spikes

fixing the top to the base -- basicaly two choices
1) gravity with a couple of locating dowels
2) make the top part of the structure using through (possibly pinned) tenons and/or dovetails

blue gum top
getting two faces flat enough to glue together and then clamping said glue faces together might be a major challenge for you -- I'd struggle finding enough suitable cramps -- I figure one every 150mm or so down both sides and across the ends, then 22 or so cauls (used in pairs) to apply pressue in the centre of the glue-up. Say a total of 30 G- or F- cramps -- the cauls could be brought together using 12mm bolts

An alternative would be build a 200mm or so wide, 100mm deep front "apron" with a 55mm deep x 50mm wide rebate into which you attach the blue gum top (secure the top using glue reinforced with screws driven 25mm below the surface plug the screw holes)
essentially a bench needs
rigidity and mass for when you're hand planning
a flat surface for when your assembling something or planning a panel
a thick front edge for when you are morticing
enough thickness to hold onto a hold down or bench dog
50-55mm is thick enough for the last three and few concrete blocks will add mass if that's required

__________________
regards from Sydney

ian

Thanks Ian.
What I am getting from this is: Use only 1 of the 2x550mm wide sides of the outdoor table, giving a workbench top 55mm or so thick. Then make a front addition 200x100 and join it to the 55mm top? Sounds confusing, but I think I am with you.

I guess I was looking at the magic thickness of 100mm, because that is what I am reading mostly. But this is my first woodworking specific workbench, if 50 is plenty then I am happy with 50mm. I have had a play around planning a piece of wood that I clamped to the outdoor table - the top didn't bend!

yes, that's the idea John
usually when you pound away chopping mortices you're working on the front edge of the bench -- this bit needs to be thick so it doesn't bounce under the mallet blows
the rest of the bench just needs to be flat
if you adopt this design, the front to back rails need to be built up under the thinner section of the top

__________________
regards from Sydney

ian

John - there seems to be this trend to waay overdo top thickness! A 100 mm thick top would be excessive, IMO. My bench top is about 50mm thick over most of the surface, beefed up to 75mm where the dog holes are and with a 180mm x 45mm front apron, it's plenty heavy enough and plenty stiff enough. It's a similar length to the one you're planning, but narrower by 100mm or so, and of less dense wood, so a Bluegum top of similar thickness ought to be a pretty solid structure. If the old table top will clean up at 50mm or slightly less thick, I reckon it will do the job nicely for the centre part of your top. I reckon trying to glue two massive boards like that together would be more trouble than it's worth.

It looks like those two baulks are pretty rough customers, at the moment - I would be thinking of sawing them into either 2 or possibly 3 lengths for cleaning up. That way they will be a lot easier to handle, and probably require less material being removed to get them flat & square.

My 2c,
Cheers,

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IW

Legs x 4...check!! At this rate I should be finished in no time (or should I say - with no time limit )

I am agreeing with the 2 Ian's. I can't see how I am going to have problems with 50 or 60mm of seasoned Blue Gum. After all, it's not like I am using pine or MDF. I think I am going to take 1 side of the table & cut into probably 3 pieces to make it easier to flatten.

Looking good mate

I was like you and wanted a big beefy workbench top (100mm). I have changed my mind and i'm going with 60-70mm. I could get away with 50mm but I got so much blackbutt it's not funny.

What vises are you going to instal and are you going to make a sliding deadman? The holtzapffel style benches have a rather wide front vise which gives the deadman only a small amount of play. I'm going to drill holes for holdfasts in the front right leg to hold down longer panels.

Looking forward to see more pics!

Andy

Not sure yet which vices I'm going to use. I really like both the beechcrafted and the wooden screw vices. But the twin handled LV is nice also. I like Groggy's wagon vice, but I think that an end vice will be be more versatile as you can use it to hold in more directions than just bench-dogging.

For the side of the bench, I like the leg vices, but I'm still mixed between that and a twin screw side mounted (what's that called again). I don't think I really need a quick release, I'm not a professional so time is not money for me.

I'm up for suggestions and advice tho. Wood screw or steel manufactured? Leg vice or twin screw side?

I'm going with the Hovarter vises - Vise | Hovarter Custom Vise

Things are looking good John!

Anticipating the finished bench.

Excellent another bench build.

I am not going to give advise but how did you managed to get all the shavings on the bench and none on the floor as in post one?

I have a "little" (insert my wife's laugh here) OCD! Every stroke or 2 of the plane I emptied the shavings onto the pile...I know sad...but hey, I am the one who cleans up!!

Just thinking about wooden threads & twin screw vices (or leg vices for that matter). I know that you can buy ready made 2" monsters that are purpose made for vices, but the 1 1/2" tapping & threading kit sold by LV, will this do the job? Is 1 1/2" thick enough for a vice? Or does anyone know of someone who has a big tap and die that if I send them some turned wood and some bribery, they might be able to tap and die a thread and nut for me?

Beall's Wood Tapping & Threading Kits - Lee Valley Tools

I've got a router and a wood lathe, but no experience on the lathe since high school.

Nice legs

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regards
Nick (I really don't need a Stubby!)
veni, vidi, tornavi