Thread: WIP - Kman's Traditional Work Bench

Thanks Groggy, this is one of the fixtures that inspired me to do a split top in the first place. I noted that most of the ones I'd seen had a top with either no end caps or limited end caps which didn't interfere with the split. I have some other ideas I'll incorporate into the flip stop which utilise the end caps as a stay. Way ahead of you.

And thanks for letting the cat out of the bag too, now I won't get the credit.

NCArcher, I'm actually a bit worried about how it will look. I've flattened a small amount of the top to use as a work surface for the working dog row and I found that the grain patterns are visually very confusing. I found myself wondering where the bench stopped and the work piece began. If the timbers had been a little more contrasting like yours it might have been fine. I may have to consider staining it a tiny bit darker to make it easier to use.

Thanks for the encouragement all. I think the hardest and most time consuming (read boring) bit is now over. The rest is more challenging and interesting and will hopefully make for a more interesting thread.

Following with interest. Any chance you can PM me the sketchup file?

This is coming along great - The split top idea is interesting and I had discounted it but now I'm having second thoughts. I'll have to rethink my thoughts on it for my (atm vitual) bench, worth considering, I think end caps on a split top are possiblt anybody see any reason why end caps would not work. I'm considering sliding dovetails. Could one also have a full width end vice with the split top?

Originally Posted by kman-oz

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NCArcher, I'm actually a bit worried about how it will look. I've flattened a small amount of the top to use as a work surface for the working dog row and I found that the grain patterns are visually very confusing. I found myself wondering where the bench stopped and the work piece began. If the timbers had been a little more contrasting like yours it might have been fine. I may have to consider staining it a tiny bit darker to make it easier to use.

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Taking Derek Cohen's comments on darkish benches I wonder if a bleaching might be an idea

Mate! Coming along nicely

A work bench like yours is on top of my want list!

Just a question - how are you going to attach the top to the frame?

The reason I ask is when I build mine I'd like to be able to remove the top for when I move to make it easier (I move alot!)

Keep up the great work,

Andy

TimberNut, PM me your email address and I'll send it along. Do be aware that the sketchup file is a base plan which I am constantly evolving. The gross dimensions will be accurate, but lots of the details will have changed.

Andy, this one won't be a knock-down bench; once constructed it won't come apart easily. To answer your question, once both of the top slabs are completed they will be dry draw-bored to the leg tenons then fitted with the end caps. If I ever need to remove the top again it will be possible, but certainly not easy.

Update; I've finished finessing the dog row down to 50mm and drilled all of the dog holes to a depth of 60mm using a forstner bit. My drill press doesn't have capacity to go deeper than this so I'm working out a way to finish them off while still keeping them straight. Will update with pics soon.

I've purchased a few new toys... *cough* ... tools for this endeavour. Bench dogs are an obvious choice, though I'm still waiting for the holdfasts to arrive. Marking tools for the dovetails, Saws and skews for the joinery. I deceded that the pipe clamps weren't gonna' cut it for the final glue up of the top slabs, and in keeping with the 'let's get serious' mindset behind the recent tools purchases I've acquired 5 600mm Bessey K-Body REVO clamps too.

The large dovetails will require a more serious rip saw, I've been building one for the purpose here.

After trialing the dogs in the dog row I found that they are quite difficult to get out by hand if you don't have more that 3/4" poking out of the top. So I decided to round over the underside of the dog holes to make it easier to get a finger through to push it through. The last two pics show how far it can be pushed back through with a finger.

After I've finished squaring the dog row to the bottom of the slab I can complete the slabs and start on the end caps and dovetails.

Nice set of T ... Shed Necessities - lucky bugger

Those tax deductable tools of trade look great.
I have a pair of Veritas saws and am very happy with them. Quality tools are a pleasure to use.
Now get stuck in. (I'm declaring my bench finished very soon )

Nice haul, Kman. I've got the veritas saws and they're a joy to use, even managed to persuade my dad.

What's with the skew chisels though? Am I missing out on a new toy purchase? Will they make my joinery better?

That's a beautiful bevel gauge, where'd you get it?

Originally Posted by rhancock

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That's a beautiful bevel gauge, where'd you get it?

My guess would be from Chris Vesper here

Thanks, Nick. Should have spotted the makers mark!

Originally Posted by NCArcher

...(I'm declaring my bench finished very soon )

rhancock, the skews will be used to clean out the corners of the half-blind dovetails in the front and rear aprons. I couldn't justify buying anything fancy for this purpose, so I've recycled a couple of cheap and nasty chisels I keep for opening cans.

Yup, I'm pretty stoked with my purchases too. I think this is about six months worth of collecting though, not overnight. I forgot to add that I picked up a set of HSS brad point drill bits too.

I think that's everything...Unless anyone can think of anything else I need... just to finish the bench of course.

Thanks, I can see why skews would be good for getting in the corners. I'll see if I can find a couple of chisels to regrind.

Originally Posted by kman-oz

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I think that's everything...Unless anyone can think of anything else I need... just to finish the bench of course.

There's a couple of items here that I'm sure are required to finish the bench
eg page 16 for a little tidy up