Thread: WIP - Recycled Hardwood Bench
14th Feb 2011, 07:30 PM #16
I'd grab em, I hardley ever use my bevel edge but I'm always swinging on the old Titans or big pig stickers. Then you don't got no scuses, thought you'd get out of it with a few stiches but the Dr Mrs is tuff.
A good edge takes a little sweat!!
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14th Feb 2011, 07:45 PM #17
I worked with a woodwork teacher for a year who built his kitchen bench out of the same sort of recycled timber;
he used booker rod to tie it together being 600mm wide..
I did a outdoor table out of recycled hardwood [fencing],
but the thicknesser/planer took a toll with the timber preparation;
Shaking a couple of grubscrews out & dulling the blades.
How did your "little Ryobi thicknesser" cope with the hardness of the old timber?
Thanks for the WIP photos.
14th Feb 2011, 08:51 PM #18
I probably should have had a bid on those chisels but I was too late. Oh well
Crowie, the Ryobi has been performing really well. It's a tough little bugger.
I think the blades could do with a sharpen but i haven't bothered because it is still cutting ok. I've been taking it easy and only taking light cuts.
I will do a full maintenance check and sharpen when the bench is finished.
You've got me thinking now. I wonder if those blades are reversible. I'll have to check.
14th Feb 2011, 10:13 PM #19
Hmm that reminds me I must give mine a quick adjust before I start my next project. I think one of the rollers has moved and it prob needs a quick lick with the diamond thingy.
You don't have time to be chatting on here, get the midget apprentice and get back out in the shed.
How is the little Miss, good I trust.
A good edge takes a little sweat!!
15th Feb 2011, 03:10 PM #20
Most of those thickys, Ryobi/Ozito/C'tech/and my H&F are minor variations on the same design. I hammered mine doing my bench build, and a subsequent kitchen reno. Eventully had it turn up its toes, with the drive chain slipping on the sprocket, (input roller.)
Tearing it down, what I found was that the drive roller runs in bushes, not bearings. At the drive end, the bush was cactus, and when under heavy load, the chain was LIFTING the drive roll, allowing the board to lift off the platen and "snipe" like mad.
Make checking the roller bushes a priority of any rebuild.
15th Feb 2011, 05:26 PM #21
15th Feb 2011, 07:59 PM #22
17th Feb 2011, 05:12 AM #23
This may be a bit late but i highly recommend making a 'tail' or extended section of your bench at one end (pic attached). This has come in handy no end when it comes to working on frames of chairs, carcasses, picture frames, clamping small pieces at both ends and especially drilling through material as you can span the gap and not drill in to the bench itself, or have to use scrap.
Mine is also on castors so is used all over the workshop, especially when doing dusty work i move it outside or even just if the weather is nice. Have wheeled it on to the back lawn as a bar on the occasional booze up, i mean civilised gathering
Maybe you can retrofit one or just build another bench all together, can you ever have enough surface space?!
Great bench though!
17th Feb 2011, 12:56 PM #24
I can see the benefit of the extension but i have had to minimise the length already as i have limited space in the workshop. I've been moving stuff around to work on the bench top as i need double the length to rip or plane. But i will have a face vice and an end vice and dog holes with a couple of hold downs as well. So clamping should be sorted. I'll have an extra rail up high on the front in place of a deadman. I think i've got it all covered Only one way to find out i guess.
I gave the thicknesser a once over last night. All looks good. In reality it is a few years old but hasn't had that much use. And the blades are reversible I now have freshly adjusted razor sharp blades again. When the bench is finished i will give both sides a sharpen.
17th Feb 2011, 01:09 PM #25
Good work, keep the dull side of the blades for when you're putting through some recycled timber, then get it all sharpened up once both sides are dulled.
Which reminds me, i need to get mine sharpened or even a new set as they are still the cheap originals and don't have much meat left on them . Add to job number 289,484,383,893 and counting , self inflicted though
19th Feb 2011, 07:58 PM #26
Got a bit of time in the shed today. Ran the 3 sections through the thicknesser. No problem.
Glued the top sections with plenty of clamps and cauls to keep it all flat and level.
I need to machine the rails next and then cut the mortices and tennons but not sure when i will get a chance. I'll keep designing in my head while i'm waiting. Although it's getting pretty crowded in there.
19th Feb 2011, 09:03 PM #27
interesting in that the other world renowned bench makers have all done the frame etc first
well done in breaking the mold
And to think I thought you were sitting next to me during the bed make, can't recall you sneaking orfregards
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
20th Feb 2011, 10:11 AM #28
Pfft....world renowned bench makers, what do they know?
I figured it was easier to size the short rails to suit the top rather than try and modify the top to suit the frame. I already have the legs machined now i just have to cut the tennon shoulders on the side rails to suit the top width. Easy
Oh, I am very sneaky
26th Feb 2011, 05:50 PM #29
Managed to get a bit more done today.
I machined up the rails with a couple of extra pieces so i have a bit of a choice. Or can recover from a massive oops
I then cut the tennons on the top of the legs and cut the legs to length.
It's handy having a RAS that will cut four 95mm x 95mm legs in one go.
I cut the tennons on the short rails and marked out for the matching mortices.
I'll start on the mortices next time.
1st Mar 2011, 08:41 PM #30
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