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24th September 2011, 09:19 AM #46Senior Member
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Mic-d, I was uncertain about merbau as well but the alternative (at the moment) was some long lengths of 800x800mm rather splitty straight growing eucalypt (something like vic ash but maybe another species) which I am sure would be worse. I tried cutting the internal thread in the thread cutting router jig using the 2 inch tap in a piece of framing 4x2 (prob vic ash) and the result was not very clean - lots of tearing on the end grain in the hole. I think IanW reported he had used merbau as a timber for the nut on threads so that why I thought it might work for the screws. The timber was free anyway. (I have to keep telling myself that as all the timber I use is free so its worth experimenting sometimes)
The other freebie I have is some Cotoneaster trunks which I think may be worth a try as its properties as reported on the forum suggest it could be appropriate. I originally got them for tool handles which I read it's rather good for. I could turn them into slightly oversized blanks as they are rather green but I would have to wait for a while for them to dry out.
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24th September 2011, 09:30 AM #47
What diameter screws would you be making? I have a thought that if you could get some spotted gum or tallowood free down that way they would be quite good for screws. I'm likely to be messing around with some reclaimed spotty later in the year and could give you some, but then it would neither be free or quick.
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24th September 2011, 12:46 PM #48Senior Member
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The tap I acquired is 2inch diameter so pretty robust. I figure if I give it a go on the merbau or Cotoneaster and it doesn't work then at least i can keep looking or revert to a metal threaded screw in the interim.
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30th September 2011, 01:13 PM #49
Mic-d - I think merbau would be worth a try. It's a bit variable, but some pieces are less splitty than others. It turn & cuts quite crisply, and I think it should take a clean thread. I've used it for clamp jaws and nuts for 2" screws, and it takes a very good internal thread (but then most woods handle internal threads reasonbly well).
I have made several large screws from Spotted Gum - it's ok, but far from brilliant. Difficult to turn smooth, because of that cranky grain, and tends to chip a lot when threading, even with my router threader, which will cut a clean thread on most woods. Haven't tried Talllow wood, but I think it might be a lot better than SG. Frank Weisner, another long-time wooden threader, likes Tas. Oak, which he manages to thread very nicely with a traditional thread box (something I very much doubt Spotted Gum would respond to, but I may be dead wrong, since I haven't seen anyone try it).
Of the several Eucalypt species I've tried, River Red Gum and Red stringy were amongst the best, producing nice, clean threads & standing up well in use (as clamp screws).
I wish there were few more avid wood threaders on the forum - I'd like to compare notes and compile a list of the woods people have found work well (in another thread, of course, don't wnt to hijack your bench-build, PM! ).
Cheers,IW
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2nd October 2011, 09:01 AM #50Skwair2rownd
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I have a bent for wooden screws but don't have ANY equipment to do the work.
Wooden screws have the advantage of not requiring so much grunt to make them hold.
Cottoneaster would male ideal wooden threads as should Lilly Pilly, some of our native Ashesm various fruit tree woods (such as Guava), some of the not so hard Acacias ( Ithink).
I would also Imagine that carefully dried Melaleuca would do well as would Bottlebrush.
Great progress there Pampy. It will be a different shed once you get it up and running.
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2nd October 2011, 07:30 PM #51
Artme - which side of the city are you? If you have your heart set on wooden screws, I can make you some 2" screws, if you have the wood. With a router bit cutting the thread, just about any wood is threadable, though not all are suitable, because some are just too brittle. Anything tough that finishes to a relatively smooth surface is good - several of those you mention should be excellent. I like to make the boss at least 20mm greater diameter than the screw, to give a good bearing surface to tighten against, which means starting with a chunk about 80mmm square, and slightly longer than the finished screw, to allow for the drive end to be cleaned off.
I'm a bit over-committed at the moment, but should have dug myself out in about 3 weeks' time. PM me if you are interested.....
Cheers,IW
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4th October 2011, 11:12 AM #52Senior Member
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Ian,
Thanks for your input here. As you say there is not much info on timbers best suited for threads. Your descriptions suggest, apart from some commonly belligerent species, that across timbers it is difficult to pick which ones will make good threaders. I should now try all the ones I have just to see which ones work. At least it suggests I should try the least valuable blanks first just to experiment.
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5th October 2011, 05:25 PM #53
Yep, a good approach, pm. And I for one would be interested in your thoughts/commernts on the turnability & threadability of each species you try.
In general, woods which turn well are suitable candidates for threading, but I have found a few woods (e.g. Brigalow), which turn well & thread cleanly, make threads that are too brittle and part company with the screw too readily for me to recommend them as a threading wood. So give 'em a workout as well, if you can...
Cheers,IW
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5th October 2011, 06:39 PM #54SENIOR MEMBER
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5th October 2011, 09:02 PM #55
Eddie (& Artme) Not too sure about Silver Ash! Haven't tried threading either, but from my limited experience using both for things like drawer sides, Silver Ash moves a lot in response to moisture changes, & more than Crows Ash, even though you would expect them to be similar. They would both meet the criteria of turning & takng a clean thread initially...
Cheers,IW
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