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Thread: My Workbench - Mini Roubo
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28th December 2014, 08:49 PM #16Intermediate Member
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Status update as of 28/12:
Benchtop underside mortices cut and tenons fit:
IMG_6890.jpg
They were tricky to cut (as expected), however they actually took less time, presumably because I could attack them with a chisel from the side unlike the blind ones nearer the front of the bench.
As mentioned by Bendigo Bob, after putting it all together I didn't like the look of the back legs so I've laminated another board onto the back - here it is during glue up late this arvo:
IMG_6891.jpg
Might come unstuck (literally) due to not enough clamps, but hopefully will be ok.
Next session will be 30/12, where I'll be cleaning up the edges of the bench and marking out my leg vise (hopefully).
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29th December 2014, 05:17 PM #17SENIOR MEMBER
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Sadly that is my problem too, not enough clamps. never would have believed how many are really needed for even the simplest job.
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29th December 2014, 06:28 PM #18Intermediate Member
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Cheers Bendigo Bob,
Seems to be holding well, and I've planed the additional board even with the worktop.
Have just run the first coat of danish oil over it after some light sanding.
Got some free time tomorrow, so will be focusing on the vise, plus some oiling on the underside of the bench.
Cheers Tarvis.
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3rd January 2015, 04:00 PM #19Intermediate Member
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Well, I thought it would never happen but the bench is done!
Some photos of the finished product...
IMG_6898.jpgIMG_6899.jpgIMG_6900.jpg
Changes since last update:
- Bench has a few coats of danish oil all over;
- cut some tongue and grove pine for a shelf - won't hold much weight but handy for small bits and pieces;
- leg vise was cut with a tenon saw and a coping saw for the rounded part of the cut. I did borrow a bandsaw for this but the blade kept wandering so I stopped using it;
- didn't end up drawboring the top because it is on quite firmly and there is no movement in the top when I push it around. Might consider it down the track if necessary.
Couple of things left to be done (with no great hurry now I might add):
- I bought an inset vise so may install this on the left side for additional clamping, just a bit nervous to cut into the top now that it's together;
- same thing for the bench pups I bought - I'm thinking a row perpendicular to the leg vise will probably do;
- I may add a runner for the leg vise guide so that it doesn't jam quite so easily;
- Maybe a bit more cleaning up of the saw marks on the side - but this is a workbench foremost and its pretty enough as is...
Biggest challenge of the build was definitely learning to cut a mortice that was square to all sides, but I think this will improve with practice.
I've got to say also - having the ability to use the bench for clamping etc. when making the leg vise was so awesome. Up until now everything has been done with a saw horse so its nice to be able to stand up straight and do stuff...
Some may wonder why the vise is built on the right side of the bench - as a lefty this seemed to make more sense to me, so that's how I built it.
Thanks to all for the advice and ideas along the way.
Now I need to decide what my first project will be with a functioning bench! - happy to take any suggestions.
Cheers,
Tarvis...
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6th January 2015, 08:36 AM #20
Nice.
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15th January 2015, 05:47 PM #21SENIOR MEMBER
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Brilliant Tarvis. you must be chuffed!! Still don't know what it would be like to work on such a solid benchtop, and that vice looks fantastic (still making do with my Groz)
Enjoy
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15th January 2015, 10:13 PM #22Intermediate Member
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Cheers Bendigo Bob,
Its great to have it finished, and its certainly nice to have something stable to work on that holds the workpiece well.
Thanks to you for your suggestions throughout too.
The wife has next put an order for a coffee table in, and I personally am keen to have a crack at some period chairs in the near future.
Cheers,
Trav
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19th January 2015, 10:24 AM #23
Tarvis - great job, and it looks like it will serve you very well. I would hurry to get the end vise and some dog holes in place, though, these will add more to the holding abilities of your bench than you can imagine, I think. I know it's hard to hack chunks out of a pristine top - I still feel a bit like a vandal doing it, but you said yourself, 'this is a bench'. Its primary job is to hold work, as conveniently as possible.
One other observation I would make: all you blokes with leg vises must be far, far more fastidious workers than I am! I say this because no-one seems to want to apply some sort of sacrificial jaws on these things. True, it is tricky to have a sacrificial jaw on the bench side, and keep it flush with the bench top, which seems to be the raison d'etre of leg vises. But I would have cut out or routed out a recess and screwed in a piece of wood that is easily replaced when it gets a bit damaged, as they inevitably do over time. I've replaced mine only once, so far, in 30 years, I suppose, but it's getting due for another refreshal soon. You can still do this on your bench as & if the need arises, of course, it just would have been a bit easier to do during construction. I like to use a relatively soft wood for my jaws, too - they hold better and crush things a little less than really hard woods, but there are differing schools of thought on that, as always.
Cheers,IW
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19th January 2015, 02:11 PM #24Intermediate Member
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My thanks IanW,
You've motivated me to finish it off properly.
I don't have a corded drill so will borrow a decent size one this weekend so as to not destroy the cordless trying to push a forstener bit through the top a couple of dozen times.
You are right about the vise chop. I'm actually contemplating adding a piece of leather to the benchtop side to see if that helps with things. I see your point about a soft wood for this, I have seen evidence of the vise marking some oak I've been working on. Something to think about further.
End vise shouldn't be too much trouble to install, although I really need to sharpen all my chisels before I do much else!
Cheers,
Trav
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19th January 2015, 03:05 PM #25
You're a devil for punishment,Trav! Forstners would be my last choice of bit for a job like that. They need a lot of pressure to cut, particularly after a hole or two in hard wood when they've dulled a little. They also don't clear chips very well, so you usually have to keep extracting them to clear on a deep hole. And finally, they have a habit of wandering badly when hand-held so you can end up with very un-straight holes. May I suggest hying thine-self to the nearest big green shed & purchasing an auger style bit of the right diameter - it would make the job about 10 times easier & quicker. To avoid break-out, it's good to clamp a scrap board over the exit, but that isn't always possible under a bench. I find that if I'm careful, I can feel when the lead-screw breaks out & stops pulling the bit. I then ease off & cut the last wafer of wood out with little or no pressure & eliminate or have very little break-out (at least 2 times out of ten! )
Cheers,IW
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20th January 2015, 01:13 PM #26Intermediate Member
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Thanks IanW,
Quick question for you - am I likely to get tearout at the top (point of entry) with an auger bit? That's why I tend to like the forstener bits despite how much work they are to get through the timber.
Cheers,
Trav
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20th January 2015, 03:01 PM #27
You should get no breakout at the top of the hole. Test it on a scrap first. Make sure they are sharp. Nice bench.
I am learning, slowley.
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20th January 2015, 05:00 PM #28
Nice looking bench - well done
regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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20th January 2015, 07:56 PM #29
Yep, as Pagie said, you should get almost as clean entry with an auger. Anything you buy new, should have a hex shaft (to fit a Jacob's chuck) and a spur, or two spurs depending if it is a single or double lead. The spurs ensure a pretty clean entry. For practical purposes, it won't make much difference whether you use double or single - you should get plenty clean enough holes with either. But always practice on some scrap first!
Cheers,IW
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