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  1. #16
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    Feb 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam50 View Post
    Nice. What products did you use for the walls and floor?
    Thanks.

    The metal work end walls are Miniorb corrugated iron (spark and fire resistant) over rock wool insulation. no finish needed
    The wood work end walls are nearly all covered with cupboards and shelving. They are just gyprock (cheap) over the bubble wrap type insulation and white plastic paint finish
    The floor is 2 coats of Berger Jet dry "Blue Ridge"

    My shed fit-out thread has more details https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/bobls-shed-fit-134670

    Since 2011 when I built the shed I have recoated the metal work end of the floor once but it needed it again probably 12 months ago. The wood work end can probably go another 12 months before recoating. It depends how much work I do in each end and in the last 12 months it has been nearly all metal work, plus metal swarf from the DP and lathe, and welding slag really chops up the paint. I doubt it would be any different with two pack epoxy.

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  3. #17
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    Feb 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam50 View Post
    Version 2 - with most of your suggestions added.

    I thought I could avoid the triangle cut plywood shelf supports by just running another length of timber along the front edge of each shelf and supporting it at the end with two vertical lengths (struts?).
    Vertical support for the shelves will get in the way of the stock being cut by the saw.
    On possibility to avoid vertical supports all round would be to use steel angle brackets like these.
    They are are screwed into the wall studs using 8mm bugle head screws.


  4. #18
    Sam50 Guest

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    I guess that I could save money by just getting one of those big steel brackets for that one spot for the upper right shelving, and use wood for the other supports.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Vertical support for the shelves will get in the way of the stock being cut by the saw.
    On possibility to avoid vertical supports all round would be to use steel angle brackets like these.
    They are are screwed into the wall studs using 8mm bugle head screws.


  5. #19
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam50 View Post
    I guess that I could save money by just getting one of those big steel brackets for that one spot for the upper right shelving, and use wood for the other supports.


    I made these myself but realise not everyone can do that.

  6. #20
    Sam50 Guest

    Default 6 month update!

    So, gents, I took on your advice from my original post six months ago and revised my plans for the workbench and shelves.

    Below are the revised plans.

    I'm about to go and purchase the wood, so I would appreciate any last-minute suggestions or corrections.

    In the past months our garage also flooded. Apparently this happens every five years or so. It reached 100cm.

    So, I'm faced with the inevitable flood that will soak my bench (pine timber and plywood) for an hour or so at some point in the future.

    Is this anything to be concerned about?

    If it is, are there any cheap simple products that I can use to treat, waterproof / preserve the wood? (preferably something easy to get from bunnings, etc).

    Thanks!
    1.png2.jpg3.jpg

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam50 View Post
    .....In the past months our garage also flooded. Apparently this happens every five years or so. It reached 100cm......

    That's a meter. Was the car in the garage?

    Must be something to prevent the water coming in. That would be a far better solution.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Alexandra Vic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    That's a meter. Was the car in the garage?

    Must be something to prevent the water coming in. That would be a far better solution.
    Or let it out fairly quickly!
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  9. #23
    Sam50 Guest

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    Yeah, it's pretty impossible to stop a whole creek from coming into your garage.

    My approach so far has been two pronged - 1. install a high powered bilge pump with float switch. This lowers the max water level and drains it quickly after the flood subsides. 2. Install rubber along edges of garage door to reduce water flow to increase efficiency of the bilge pump.

    We'll see how it goes next flood

    For waterproofing my current idea is to just buy a bunch of boiled linseed from bunnings and coat all the bare pine timber and plywood with it. might look ok too.

    Anyway... any criticisms of my bench design before I get the pieces cut?

    Cheers

  10. #24
    Sam50 Guest

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    Oh, and I managed to drive the car out as the banks broke - had about 3 minutes to do it in. Pretty intense.

    Two neighbours lost cars in it.

    Fish in the garage. Fun times.

  11. #25
    Join Date
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    I know for a fact that when you finally decide on what you want it will most likely be modified. This is just something that happens when we change from one aspect of the hobby to another.

    I cannot see anything wrong with the design. One thing to keep in mind is to ensure you can get into and out of the car when you park the car in the garage.

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